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12-14-2021, 04:03 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member 
1975 Argosy 24
Salinas
, California
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 9
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Found some floor and frame damage. How far should I go?
TLDR: I have found some limited spots of water damage in the subfloor and varying levels of rust on outriggers and outside of the frame but overall the trailer seems structurally fine. I'm about to start rebuilding the interior and am trying do decide if I need to do a major job investigating more and treating these problems.
Long Version: Last year I bought a 1975 24.ft Argosy. and plan to rebuild the interior. Before rebuilding the inside I decided to check the sub floor and frame. I have taken up the laminate flooring and un sealed the seam that runs around the bottom of the trailer about 4/5ths of the way around to do a visual inspection. What I found was varying levels of rust on the frame. In some places the metal is pitted but seems sound underneath but in most places it is just some spots coming through the paint mostly along the bottom edge where the belly pan is attached. There was one outrigger near that back which had very bad rust (holes all the way through) and will need to be replaced and one strut between the two sides of the front tong that was also badly rusted and will be replaced. I did not drop the belly pan though so I don't know what it looks like in the middle or how significant the rusting on the bottom of the frame might be. I suspect that the seam around the bottom of the trailer leaked in several places and will be carful to seal it properly when I put things back.
As for the subfloor, it also looked mostly sound. I found a spot near the front water tank that had obvious water damage and also found a leak in the water tank which probably caused it. Looking from the outside around the bottom edge I can see a few places near the back where the bottom layer of the plywood has started to rot and you can flake it away, but under that it's solid wood again. I cut out the rotten section near the front (which was a lot more work than I expected) and will replace it. I didn't tear out the bathroom so I can't get a good look at those spots in the back from inside and was really hoping to leave the bathroom mostly intact.
So my dilemma now is trying to decide how far to go. Based on what I have found, I think replacing the two spots of bad rust on the frame and the rotten spot in the front subfloor will make the trailer structurally sound but I'm not sure how worried I should be about the water damage in the rear subfloor or the possibility of more rust under the belly pan or of things getting worse over time. My current plan would probably be to do some quick damage control like wire brushing the parts of the frame I have exposed so far and top coating them with rustolium, then painting around the bad spots in the floor with penetrating epoxy then resealing the outside seam (properly this time). Then I could do the interior build out. In a few years when I have saved up some money and prepared myself mentally for the job, maybe I could take off the belly pan and do a proper rust treatment on the frame from underneath (shell off is not an option in my current situation and seems like overkill anyway). I'm a first time trailer owner working on it myself and am also worried that if I try to get too ambitious or dig too deeply trying to fix everything perfectly, I'll run out of energy for the project before I finish. On the other hand, I don't want to gloss over things that really need to be addressed and then have to take it all apart again in a few years to fix something that I should have done to start with.
Sorry for the essay length post but I wanted to give all the info. Happy to add pictures too if that helps. Your advice is and guidance is much appreciated
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12-14-2021, 08:03 PM
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#2
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4 Rivet Member 
1949 22' Liner
1969 27' Overlander
1969 27' Overlander
Walnut Creek
, California
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 325
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I would not spend a dime until the belly pan is dropped and a inspection of the subfloor and frame is completed from below. If it's repairable then do so with rust converter and a couple coats of good paint. It's really bad to dump a bunch of money into something with a questionable foundation.
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12-14-2021, 08:25 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master 
2017 25' International
West Lake Hills
, Texas
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 1,762
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“They may build the grandest of houses, but they sit on a shaky foundation.”
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12-14-2021, 11:41 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master 
1969 18' Caravel
Greenville
, whereEverIroam
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,414
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I feel your anguish.
Some things to consider:
If you need or want to do a restoration, there are lots of folks here with lengthy threads on their own refurbishment and lots of folks here to ask questions of. It has all been done before, many times, in many different ways.
On the other hand, it's good to remember why you got the trailer in the first place, presumably to enjoy it. And while it is true some of us more crazy types actually do enjoy working on the trailers, most of us enjoy camping in them and traveling to places far away from home.
I do agree that you really should examine the entire trailer first to ensure it is road worthy, and to see the scope of any needed work.
I would be shocked if a trailer of that vintage didn't need some attention to the frame and subfloor.
Then you at least will know what the deal is, and can make some informed decisions rather than rolling the dice.
You'll likely have several options, including using it as you restore it. But it helps to have:
a vision of what you want,
a realistic assessment of what you can do,
a sober look at your resources,
and a good estimate of any return you'll get for the investment of time, labor and cash it will require.
Best of luck, don't forget to have fun.
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12-15-2021, 10:12 AM
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#5
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3 Rivet Member 
1987 34' Limited
Hantsport
, NS
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 169
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+1 on dropping the bellypan and investigating thoroughly. Mine started as a minor repair and ended with a shell off due to the rotted frame and OSB floor. It set me back a year but when I think of the nasty biohazard material (wood, pink insulation, critter remains) that is now in the dump I see only upside in being thorough. Not only an issue of trailer integrity but also your health.
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12-15-2021, 11:22 AM
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#6
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4 Rivet Member 
2018 27' Flying Cloud
INDIAN HARBOUR BEACH
, Florida
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 263
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Naval Jelly
If available where you live, after brush cleaning the rusted metal, treat with naval jelly. It dissolves rust remaining on metal surface (you'll see a change in the surface color) <https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/products/specialty-products/surface-treatments/loctite_naval_jellyrustdissolver.html>
Then paint. I can buy it in FL but wasn't available in CA.
On investigating extent of rust repairs . . . rust like ants or roaches, if you see one, there are more that you can't see.
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12-16-2021, 08:34 AM
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#7
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4 Rivet Member 

1988 29' Excella
Lorena
, Texas
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 274
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Some resources I would recommend
Rather than giving an opinion (and I always have one) I’d point you to a few resources.
1. TheVAP podcast. (Vintage Airstream Podcast). 360 episodes, mostly around Airstream (and Argosy) refurb and rebuild. You’ll hear a lot about the weather in Northern California and Peru, NY, but there is also a huge amount of discussion on dealing with the ins and outs of rebuilds. The hosts are Tim Shepherd (sic?) and Collin Hyde. Collin is one of the top professional restorers in the nation. Tim is more of an amateur restorer who manages the techie part of the podcast.
Collin would probably say that if you have the interior out then go ahead with a full rotisserie. (Frame off, turn frame upside down to do tanks and then turn it upright and rebuild). Tim would probably say inspect thoroughly, fix what you can see and get on with life.
2. Buy Tim’s book “Restoring a Dream”. Frankly it gives a pretty good survey of the land. You’ll see what you’re in for down the road. There are many good restoration threads on the forum, but the book has at least been professionally edited.
3. Use the forum. Lots of good stuff. But DO NOT ask for opinions about your tow vehicle (tv).
Last, you didn’t ask and I promised no opinion, but do check your axles. A trailer of that age should not be running on original axles. And Collin is a great source for the axles. I’ve bought new axles for two different trailers. Did not use Collin either time. And I ended up paying for my mistakes.
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12-16-2021, 08:55 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master 
1964 17' Bambi II
1961 24' Tradewind
Strasburg
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 960
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Onions...
Bottom line (and it has been posted here before), a vintage Airstream is like an onion. The further back you peel the payers, the more you will cry.
If you have a good grasp on how to make it serviceable, solid, and able to fit your needs...even if they are just a temporary solutions and you are looking to tear it down further later, go for it.
I am in the middle of my second AS reno, and I have had to do frame repair/section replacement/partial and full sub floor replacement on both. I did not replace the entire frame. I did shell-on renovations. Many would say I did not go far enough, but I have one very solid trailer and one in process that have and will provide years of camping memories for my family. I neither have the space of tools to do full shell off renovations. My system works for me.
I remove and replace what is needed to make them safe and sound. Then I build them back up and maintain...knowing that if they are not neglected, and I am intimately aware of the trailers' inner workings, I am good to go.
Your mileage may vary, as they say.
__________________
"The difference between vintage and retro is that vintage is honestly old and cool. Retro tries to be but isn't."
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