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Old 12-04-2011, 05:37 PM   #1
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Floor replacement question: to do it right the first time!

Hi all,
I have a question about the bolts that hold the floor to the shell...like, the best way to get them off and the floor out! I've looked at a number of threads but the ones I've seen just go from a floor to no floor and I want to make sure to do it right (so the shell doesn't fall off
In the pictures you will see that the bolts that go through the C channel, into the wood and then (I assume) into the frame are rusted and pretty much useless. I've only taken off the back section and one wall so far, and I figure it might be easier to replace the back section first (where the blue arrows point). I'm just wondering if there are tricks or pitfalls when getting the floor out from under this C channel.
Is it best to replace a section at a time (like the back section) or can you remove all of the floor and still have the shell on (which I'd rather do).
It seems like the floor is what's holding the shell on, but in looking at other people's pics I'm pretty sure this is not the case...
So I'm kinda lost here, I can certainly go at it with the sawzaw and pull out chunks of the floor little by little (which I figure is the correct way), but I don't want to have the shell collapse on me!
Thanks for the help!
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Old 12-04-2011, 05:53 PM   #2
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Hi Eric,
The easiest way to remove the e bolts is to grip the nut with vise grip pliers, then wiggle back and forth and the bolt will usually break off. Then take a punch and hammer the rest of the e bolt out. Have you seen my floor replacement thread? You can take the whole floor out with the shell resting on the outriggers, but you'll want to make sure the shell is attached to the frame in a few places so it doesn't fly away on you!
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Old 12-04-2011, 06:28 PM   #3
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Thanks!

Lance,
thanks for the link to your thread and the info. That's what I figured, but it's always best to check first, and it's a lot to dig through all the (great) info on here!
Your thread is great man, I've bookmarked it!
I'm trying to decide if I should leave the insulation in the walls since it looks fine, no leaks etc...
Thanks again!
Cheers
Eric
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Old 12-04-2011, 07:03 PM   #4
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The floor does not look that rotten to me. Like Lance said sometimes you can just wring the rotten bolts off with vise grips. Worst case you can use a saws all but put the blade between the floor and the frame. You don't want to mess up the C-channel or skin. You can also use an angle grinder and grind the heads off from the bottom so you don't damage the aluminum. Take your time. I recommend getting all the pink crap out from under the floor. That stuff stays wet and rots the frame. I put RMAX back in the lower walls where the skin came off. I used 2 layers of the 1/2" foam and sealed it will silver duct tape. You can slit and crease the foam and make it bent around the corners. You can replace the last 4 feet of floor without doing anything fancy. When you cut the bolts at the back the rear will drop a little giving you room to slide in new floor in pieces. If you want to do one big piece you will have to remove the steel L-bracket at the back. If you don't have to replace it then don't. POR15 it and section the floor. I added angle iron to the frame to give each piece of floor its own supports.

I have not had time to organize and narate these yet but here is a photo record of what I did. Yours will be a little more complicated because of the rear bath. If you can save the old floor sections you can use them as templates.

Index of /AS-Temp/81-ExcellaII-31ft/Floor-Repairs

Marzboy on here used mahogany plywood and that should be good stuff to used for the floor and it is about the same as pine based marine plywood. I think this is his thread.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...hab-71458.html

Perry
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Old 12-04-2011, 08:14 PM   #5
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Thanks Perry!
The floor is not rotten, but the bolts are rusted due to water and then the reaction of the steel and aluminum so I want to replace them at least.

There are a couple rotten places up front (under the vista view, go figure). I want to replace the holding tanks as well, so I figure if I have to cut the floor up I might as well replace it all. Am I correct to think that I can't get to the tanks from the bottom?

I'm also interested in getting full access to the frame to really do it right.

Thanks everyone!
Eric




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Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
The floor does not look that rotten to me. Like Lance said sometimes you can just wring the rotten bolts off with vise grips. Worst case you can use a saws all but put the blade between the floor and the frame. You don't want to mess up the C-channel or skin. You can also use an angle grinder and grind the heads off from the bottom so you don't damage the aluminum. Take your time. I recommend getting all the pink crap out from under the floor. That stuff stays wet and rots the frame. I put RMAX back in the lower walls where the skin came off. I used 2 layers of the 1/2" foam and sealed it will silver duct tape. You can slit and crease the foam and make it bent around the corners. You can replace the last 4 feet of floor without doing anything fancy. When you cut the bolts at the back the rear will drop a little giving you room to slide in new floor in pieces. If you want to do one big piece you will have to remove the steel L-bracket at the back. If you don't have to replace it then don't. POR15 it and section the floor. I added angle iron to the frame to give each piece of floor its own supports.

I have not had time to organize and narate these yet but here is a photo record of what I did. Yours will be a little more complicated because of the rear bath. If you can save the old floor sections you can use them as templates.

Index of /AS-Temp/81-ExcellaII-31ft/Floor-Repairs

Marzboy on here used mahogany plywood and that should be good stuff to used for the floor and it is about the same as pine based marine plywood. I think this is his thread.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...hab-71458.html

Perry
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Old 12-04-2011, 08:21 PM   #6
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I removed my floor bolts like this....
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Old 12-04-2011, 11:17 PM   #7
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PERFECT. I have that same bit sitting on my work bench and never that together. Most of those old bolts don't want to come out or get rung off.
This is great.

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I removed my floor bolts like this....
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Old 12-06-2011, 09:19 AM   #8
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PERFECT. I have that same bit sitting on my work bench and never that together. Most of those old bolts don't want to come out or get rung off.
This is great.
Thank Uwe @ Area 63 for that trick. Saved me lots of time. Post some pics of the floor removal.
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