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Old 07-28-2003, 07:33 PM   #1
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Unhappy floor replacement instruction?

Hi Folks,

I am going to be replacing the floor on my 1964 Safari due to water damage/rot. I have a general idea of how to go about this, but some spesefic instructions would help (and I feel like I could use all the help I can get right about now). I ran across a website with step by step photos and instructions about a month ago when I realized that I was going to need to do this, but then my browser crashed and I lost the link.

Thanks for your help!

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Old 08-12-2003, 10:12 AM   #2
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1961 16' Bambi
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There were some great photos on that one of our members posted early on. I will try and get that site running ASAP.
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Old 04-03-2004, 07:12 PM   #3
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This applies to replacing the floor in a rear bath model but ic can be helpful with regard to general floor repair:
"To get started pull your carpet back past the first seam in the floor. This will tell you how far back you will have to remove your interior cadinets and tub ,etc. It is best to get every thing within 3' up from the floor out of your way. Any plumbing or elec thru the floor will need to be disconnected also. Pull the banana wrap off to the same point on the exterior to get at the under side bolts and nuts. Now that you have a clear work space move back inside. You will need to loosen the wall panels vertically high enough to pull them out to get to the bolts in the channels without creasing the metal . Once you have done this I used a reciprocating saw to cut the bolts off underneath that I could get to . The rest I used regular tools . Don't try to recycle the bolts . After every thing is loose pull the rear bumper and cover so you have access to the two maim frame bolts. Once it is all loose the frame may drop away far enough to pull the plywood out . try to get it out in one piece. Having a pattern to go by for your cuts is critical .If it does not drop far enough Than there are two ways to get it out and in. The first one I did I did it at a friends house . He had one of the screw in anchors used to tie house trailors down By the pad he puts hitrailor on. I backed mine up to it and put a strap across the rear frame and gently lowered the front untill I had enough room to slide the old piece out and the new one in .{ DO NOT LEAVE IT IN THIS POSITION WHILE YOU ARE CUTTING THE NEW PIECE ] Take the strain off while you get the next piece ready. After I cut the new piece I Put a couple of good coats of wood sealer on both sides and edges. To be sure of a good tight connection between the body and frame when you lower the rea back down put some supports under the frame to push it up against the floor and body.
The way I did mysecond one was to use weight lifting weights and tied 200 lbs to each corner and then lowered the nose.

Then put it all back together. I is a good idea to take pictures as you take it apart. It helps when you put it back.

I use loctite on all my nuts and bolts and on the inside of the chanel at the main frame bolts I cut a piece of steel 1/4 " thick and 3" long and ground it into the curve of the frame to go insde the channel and then put the bolts thru them."
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