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Old 11-02-2005, 07:49 PM   #61
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That is definitely not the original axle. The torsion arm looks nothing like the old arms, also they are dangerously close to the stops (cut them off, quick) Henschen puts a tag with a serial number and axle capacity on their tubes, I should think the other manufacturers would also, a phone call with the S/N should give you the information you need. The Henschen axle for that year was 2500# rated with a 25° down start angle, spec'd with 10" drums and 5 lug on 4 1/2" bolt circle though I have seen 4 lug drums on some and the 1964 Bambi II.

Torsion axles are avaialable from Henschen (original) Dexter, Hayes (Alko Kober) Axis and I'm sure others. Your axle mounting plate will probably not match up to anyones mounting bracket but drilling new mounting holes is not hard. Use grade 8 bolts and nuts. Good time to increase the starting angle and up the rating a few hundred pounds too.

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Old 11-02-2005, 08:23 PM   #62
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Axel information

Greg, Thanks for the rapid replay and information. I'll do some resurch on the axel manufacturers you suggested.
Thanks Don
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Old 11-09-2005, 08:50 PM   #63
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reassembleage question

Looking for input. I took tons of pictures as I took our Bambi apart. I am ready to put on the new flooring. After looking at my pictures I have made the following decision. The galvanized fenders go on first. Next the floor panel that is aligned with the fenders goes on. Then I will work toward the front then the back piece will go on. When I make the new floor pieces using the old floor pieces as a pattern, I was very careful to align everything including the holds for the bolts etc. The floor was in such bad condition things don't line up as well as I would like. This is the second reason for starting from the fender section and working from a more central location. I was once taught that working from centers is always better. I'm also going to caulk between the floor and the steel frame members. It is obvious that water had set in this area before and caused damage. Caulking should help prevent this in the future. Anyone have any thoughts?
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Old 11-09-2005, 09:35 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCal Bambi
I'm also going to caulk between the floor and the steel frame members. It is obvious that water had set in this area before and caused damage. Caulking should help prevent this in the future. Anyone have any thoughts?
The water you noticed under the crossmembers was most likey trapped in the insulation that was originally squished between the floor and the frame. No worries if you're not going to install the same insane insulation.
Starting from the center seems like a decent idea. I started from teh front, since that was teh only real reference I had. The sheets lined up very well with the crossmembers. I don't see a problem starting the floor install wherever you want. You've got an easy job, since your trailer is so small.
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Old 11-10-2005, 08:51 PM   #65
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Begin New Floor

Today I started the new floor. 5/8" exterior plywood. The first step was to clean and repair the fenders. I had noticed small cracks in the corners of the fenders near the outside/bottom corners. It is my thought that these cracks had been caused by the following: 1. As the floor was deteriorating, the shell was slowly sinking around the floor. This caused excess load on the fenders. Causing them to be pushed down. The extra load caused the corners to begin to crack. 2. The excess load was also evident by buckles that appeared in the top curved section of the fenders. 3. general load and vibration as the trailer was in motion. I made repairs by using techniques used in aircraft repair of vibration caused cracks. The first step is to find the end of the crack and stop drill the crack. This is done by drilling a 1/8" hope at the very end of the crack. This will prevent further cracking. Next a "doubler plate" is placed over the area of the crack. A doubler plate is a plate of similar sheet metal that is large enough to cover the cracked area in all directions. Next the doubler plate is riveted into position. This reinforces the area an removes load on the cracked area. Most of the floor is profited and holes drilled. Tomorrow I will caulk around the fender areas and reassemble and bolt in the floor. It's great moving on to a different part of the restoration!!!
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Old 11-10-2005, 09:17 PM   #66
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That looks great - time to start building back up after all that tearing down!
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Old 11-12-2005, 08:08 PM   #67
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Question New Floor installed/ filler question

One more step down!! Yesterday I was able to mount the fenders and set them im place with caulk. I allowed them to dry overnight. See attached. Today I polted down the floor. I found that counter sinking the elevator bolts worked better than just cinching them down. I broke a couple before I made this decision. Finally I applied wood filler to the holes and sanded them down. I would like to some additional filling and sanding the floor. I will be putting lineoleum down as a finish floor. I would like to use a filler that will allow the lineoleum to stick well to the filler as well as the wood. Anyone have a suggestion? Here a few pictures of todays work.
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Old 11-12-2005, 08:24 PM   #68
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Good Job, Don!

Here?
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Old 11-12-2005, 10:31 PM   #69
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Animation of Bambi when purchased

In you would like to see what our 63 Bambi looked like when we bought it go to the following site. I hope this works.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/5945706.../1336620/show/
I am currently working on one of the total dismantle. It wil be followed by one of the restoration.

markdoane, Thanks for the info on VersaPatch. That should get me going for tomarrow.
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Old 11-13-2005, 01:26 PM   #70
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Smile How to find Blind rivets

In working toward finding the correct placement for the C channel on my new floor, I discovered how to find Blind rivets before you start drilling out the rivets on the outside shell. First a short review of what the steps are to get to the place where you need to ask the question about Blind rivets.
1. Remove all interior items until you get to a hallow shell.
2. Remove all lower interior aluminum panels.
3. Remove insulation.

At this point you can identify the places where you will find blind rivets. If you examine the C channel you will find places where the inside vertical part of the channel is bent down flat to the bottom horizontal section. The blind rivets will be located under the outside skin in these areas.

Here is a suggestion for the next person needing to remove a shell. You might be able to use a Drumel tool and cut the back side of these rivets off before you get to the outside. In my Bambi I found that all these Blind rivets were in a vertical rib that went up the side of the trailer.

Here is a picture of piece of channel showing the folded section of the channel.
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Old 11-13-2005, 09:09 PM   #71
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Aligning C channel to fit Shell replacement

Does this sound like the right approach? I'm attempting to make sure that the shell rivet holes will line up with the holes in the C channel when the shell is put back on my new floor. I am using calipers to measure rivet hole distances on the shell and transfer them to the floor and C channel. Here a series of pictures with explanations. I'm open for advice.
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Old 11-13-2005, 09:55 PM   #72
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I am not sure if the kind of precision you are after is practical in this case.
More power to you if it works out, but in my case there was no way I could re-use the old rivet holes in the c-channel. As a matter of fact, I had to manufacture several sections of the c-channel that was no longer serviceable. I was very happy once the shell agreed to once again fit over the c-channel and belly wrap after all was said and done. Mine took 3 tries and needed quite a bit of trimming around the back perimeter. However, I did not have a pattern for the rear flooring section, it was rotted out so badly.
You can always put the shell on and then lift sections of it to make adjustments.
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Old 11-14-2005, 08:50 PM   #73
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Question e-book practice C channel

Two things today, I finished the C channel for my trailer. And I used the information to put together some possible pages for a e-book on Shell off floor replacement. The last couple of days I've been working toward the e-book idea. I'm very open to comments suggestions or even "quit waisting your time". Here are the set of pictures that demonstrate both things.
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Old 11-14-2005, 08:59 PM   #74
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e-book What do you think?

Second section. Look at the page before this first. Coments please. The last three photo include, cutting with nibbler, checking for final fit, and the completed channel. Each picture can be read easier by double clicking on the photo to get and enlargement.
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Old 11-14-2005, 09:32 PM   #75
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Don,

Regarding using the dividers to locate the u-channel from a refererence point on the wheel well.

I would prefer to offset the u-channel by 1/4" or so and drill new holes.

If you try to locate the way you are doing, and end up off by just 60 thou, you will be off by half the diameter of a rivet.

Then you need to drill it out and end up with a slot instead of a hole.

Better to move to one side or the other and redrill.

Just my opinion. I used new floor channels.
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Old 11-14-2005, 09:37 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
...Just my opinion. I used new floor channels.
Mark,

Did you make new floor channels or buy them, if bought, where?

Bill
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Old 11-14-2005, 10:01 PM   #77
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As an alternate, check out post # 86 on my Overlander thread ( A 63 for me)
I used a cheap metal brake from Harbor freight tools to make many brackets and sections of C-channel for this project. A worthwhile investment, in my opinion, for a job of this magnitude.
I had to make horizontal rib sections also, to repair previous accident damage to the shell.
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Old 11-15-2005, 11:27 AM   #78
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Quote:
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Mark,

Did you make new floor channels or buy them, if bought, where?

Bill
The floor channels that are straight I made useing the techniques shown in the photos. The curved channels in my trailer were in good condition. I have not look for a source for these parts. They could propable be made using a metal streaching device. This equipment is used in aircraft construction.
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Old 11-15-2005, 11:30 AM   #79
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Quote:
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As an alternate, check out post # 86 on my Overlander thread ( A 63 for me)
I used a cheap metal brake from Harbor freight tools to make many brackets and sections of C-channel for this project. A worthwhile investment, in my opinion, for a job of this magnitude.
I had to make horizontal rib sections also, to repair previous accident damage to the shell.
I am looking forward to getting a metal brake one day soon. At this time in was not in the budget. In relation to (wkerfoot's) question do you have any input as to the production of curved channel parts?
Thanks Don
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Old 11-15-2005, 11:42 AM   #80
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Quote:
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Mark,

Did you make new floor channels or buy them, if bought, where?

Bill
I replaced a one side sheet so I had a 48" sheet of 2024-T3. I cut it down to 40", which left me with a trim piece 7 3/4" 12 ft. I split this in two and used it to make the new floor channels.

My neighbor has a 10ft light duty brake for gutter work. It would not bend the sheet without slipping, so I took it up the street to a metal fab shop that had a big hydraulic press brake.
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