Floor replacement, 5/8" or 3/4"?

[Sheridan]

I'm replacing the floor in my 65 Caravel and I measured a piece that I took out at 1/16" sort of 5/8" (9/16") A new panel of 3/4" plywood at Lowes is 1/16" larger than 5/8" (11/16"). A new panel of 5/8" plywood at Lowes is actually 1/16" shy of 5/8" just like the stuff I ripped out.

My questions are:

1. Did the space under the C channel where the plywood goes include the thickness of the asbestos tile? (1/16") If so, I could put 3/4" in and no floor covering under the C channel and be 1/16" thicker than the original plywood + floor tile. I would like the rivet holes to line up when I button it up.

2. Is 3/4" worth the extra weight and less flexibility than 5/8"?

3. Will 3/4" fit under the door jam OK?

4. The original 5/8" seemed to do fine for 45 years ( except the rotten area at the back of the trailer, which will never happen again after I seal the area) so maybe staying original is the safe bet.

I usually tend toward overbuilding, but in this case I'm not so sure. Please advise.

Thanks, Dan

[Aerowood]

I would go with the 3/4 if you can. But thats just me. You'll be able to feel the extra support right away.

[putback]

I just replaced my 2nd sheet of 5, shell on, belly pan split down the center, '64 safari. I used 5/8 FIR plywood. I tried a sheet of 3/4 pine ply first, no doubt its stronger but it was a real *^#@# to work it between the fram/riggers and C-chanel with the shell on. Even after beltsanding the parimeter of the wood. 5/8 slid in snug but well. The fir was more $, 35.00 per sheet. But, smooth as silk, few if any voids, exterior grade, and 7ply. Here's an amusing point. The guy at the yard insisted the 5/8 fir was stronger than the 3/4 pine. Ya, right. He put them on a scale. The thiner fir was 2 lbs heaver that the pine! There's one more plus with the fir. When you route it for the lap joints over the cross members its a much cleaner even joint.

[Shacksman]

Use the 5/8, your going to have enough problems before your done, without making more work for yourself.

[CanoeStream]

Consider a real lumberyard's 19/32" CDX underlayment. It has more solid internal veneers than standard AC plywood (though not perfect nor marine grade). My '74 Argosy floor was originally 1/2" -- a bit flimsy. The 19/32" received some belt sanding on the perimeter to fit in the C channel.

Look at this thread - http://www.airforums.com/forums/f227...ect-24671.html Follow the conversation Gary & I had from posts 79 to 88. Don't exactly know how that applies to your situation. It always takes some puzzling through.

We'll love pictures & plenty of talk-story from you!

[toastie]

Decided to go with 3/4" AC plywood at $44.00 a sheet, a few voids but very solid stuff, happy with the selection. Sealed plywood with Cabot Stains Clear Solution | Cabot and the edges with trempro. The below pictures are scraps of plywood that where sealed with the cabot and left out side for a year.

toastie

[Sheridan]

I think I'm going 3/4" ACX. If I have problems with first sheet (rear bathroom) I'll consider downsizing to 5/8".

Toastie, I counted the ply's in the photos you posted and came up with 5. Is this the 3/4"that you used for your floor.

The stuff I've got is 7 ply's. Does that make a difference ( more glue - less wood)?

Dan

[toastie]

Originally Posted by Sheridan

I think I'm going 3/4" ACX. If I have problems with first sheet (rear bathroom) I'll consider downsizing to 5/8".

Toastie, I counted the ply's in the photos you posted and came up with 5. Is this the 3/4"that you used for your floor.

The stuff I've got is 7 ply's. Does that make a difference ( more glue - less wood)?

Dan

Yes, I used 3/4" AC with ext. glue and what you see in the pictures is what I used. Your plywood looks great.........

[InsideOut]

Originally Posted by Sheridan

My questions are:

1. Did the space under the C channel where the plywood goes include the thickness of the asbestos tile? (1/16") If so, I could put 3/4" in and no floor covering under the C channel and be 1/16" thicker than the original plywood + floor tile. I would like the rivet holes to line up when I button it up.

Yes, the flooring originally went under the c-channel. We used 3/4" Marine grade rather than 5/8" in order to maintain approximately the same distance.

And yes it was a PITA to replace, but the floor is real solid and there's less likely to be a chance of the shell "settling". Our new flooring only goes up to the interior skins, not under the c-channel. If you are planning on using your existing panels as templates, refit them beforehand because the shape of your shell (and definitely the height) may have changed after replacing the floor. Don't ask me how I know!

[utee94]

More plys is a good thing, your plywood looks good to me. I, too, replaced the 5/8 with 3/4 (which isn't actually 3/4, think it's 18mm or something like that).

I used 3/4 ACX, and it was a tight fit for sure, but I managed to wedge it in there ultimately.

-Marcus

[SilverHoot]

I'm getting ready to replace my entire floor a section at a time shell-on. I notice that on mine that the lino did not continue under the u-channel and the plywood was 5/8" thick. Can't remember where I read it but somebody said that if they had it to do over they would have gone with 3/4" thick plywood. So, really would like to know just how much harder it would be to use 3/4" instead of 5/8". Don't think the extra weight or cost are enough of a difference to be factored.

[pbearsailor]

Just finishing mine, shell on. 3/4" is the way to go and it goes in just fine. I used ACX and it'll be epoxy coated on both sides.

cheers,
steve

[gwchitty]

The 3/4 was just too hard to shove under the c-channel and I didn't want to distort the shell. So I went back to 5/8 and refloored the entire trailer.

It didn't look like the tile went under the c-channel but the PO had removed almost all of it (and installed an overlay of half inch waferboard everywhere but under the c-channel. Nice. ). I pretty much followed RJ Dial's method at vintageairstream.com . My floor was so entirely rotted out around the perimeter that the shell sagged at the doorway. I also primed and painted all the sections all over before installing. That makes it a bit hard to get the linoleum cement to stick but I managed ok.

Wear a respirator when cleaning all the crud off the inside of the bellypan. Mine was disgusting. Don't be surprised if some weld repair is needed, I caught mine as I went along.

Good luck, the new floor is worth the effort! Keep us informed of your progress!

Bill
AKA Cosmos.

[SilverHoot]

Well, if I decide on 3/4" it may not be as hard since the c-channel is removed already. Doesn't look to me like the the linoleum went under the channel on this one.

[Foiled Again]

Couldn't you just use a router to plane down the surface at the edge so that it would fit under the C channel?

That should work better than a belt sander.

Paula