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Old 08-23-2014, 07:17 AM   #21
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In my thread on replacing the subfloor in a classic motorhome, I showed the profile that I cut the coosa to ease getting it into the C channel. I left 1/2" of the insert at 5/8" but bevelled the rest by 10 degrees.

As to fitting pieces into your trailer I would cut back your old floor to another cross frame (overlapping it by half) further than you need. This way you could fit and install the curved end easily and with half lap joints easily fit the remaining 14 or so inches side to side with a half lap joint in the middle.

It's difficult to explain but imagine if I had a curve end when I did the front of my Classic. I would had installed the Coosa along the back, sliding it into the channel and then placed the straight forward square pieces with a half lap joint in the middle. The half lap just replaces the tonque and groove joint with the bottom half being fully over the cross rails.

Clear as mud?
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Old 08-23-2014, 09:21 AM   #22
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On the rear of mine I ended up cutting the floor into three sections. One for the center section that had to be pushed between the c-channel and the hold down plate and one for each curved side. I also added extra angle iron to the frame rails and made and extra outrigger so that each panel had its own support structure. I have seen others do the half lap thing where they milled the top and bottom of the floor to support each other. Here is what I did which maybe overkill.

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Old 08-24-2014, 06:56 PM   #23
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Is out! Not a bit of rot in the forward area left...

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All cleaned out. Now I am going to use the three piece method of replacement with a two inch overlap. Not really that much rust anywhere in this area. Most of the rust i had was the elevator bolts that I've removed and the tongue which i have POR 15 to cover.
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Old 08-24-2014, 08:11 PM   #24
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Banana Removal coming up.

I guess i need to get the banana wrap off to get to the underside and install the elevator bolts. It looks like i have to remove the bump strip too and the grey insert, how is it installed? Do i need to repurchase the strip once removed or is it able to be reinserted? I haven't even started that yet just wanted to know what i was in for.
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Old 08-24-2014, 09:28 PM   #25
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My 81 has a rub rail/belly band that has a blue insert trim. You remove the trim then drill out the rivets. The newer trailers have a real crappy insert that glues on and I am not sure how that works. My feeling is that the newer insert is a one time deal but someone might contradict me on that. If I had a new trailer I think I would be temped to buy some old trim with the removable insert and throw away the factory junk. I don't know which your trailer has.

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Old 08-25-2014, 12:00 PM   #26
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What is painted grey on the boards?
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Old 08-25-2014, 03:45 PM   #27
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The grey stuff looks like Trempro 635 sealant normally used to seal the outside skin. The stuff works well in so many different applications.
http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/..._p/vts-267.htm
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Old 08-28-2014, 10:45 PM   #28
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Smile End Cap Removed

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Repaired my end cap and the buckling of the roof. Now, what kind of insulation do i need to put in the end cap area? of course first item is to check for leaks up front. then its all back together.
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Old 08-29-2014, 07:16 AM   #29
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It is Trempro-635 that I used to seal the seams.

Perry

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What is painted grey on the boards?
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Old 08-29-2014, 07:19 AM   #30
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I would use 2 layers of 1/2" RMAX cut into strips to fit the end caps and then maybe some radiation barrier on top of that. You seal all seams with the aluminized duct tape.

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Old 09-06-2014, 06:31 PM   #31
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Floor is in. Ugh! Not again. Click image for larger version

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Old 09-12-2014, 10:14 PM   #32
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Man that looks good! Hope you sealed the edges too.
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Old 09-15-2014, 08:47 AM   #33
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Bummed that after all this work when i go to insert the battery boxes i find the front end has been kicked out about 3/8" between the battery boxes. It must have happened when i put in the center floor piece. i never really noticed it until now. I'm not sure if i have compromised the integrity of the shell or not. It also seems in that process i loosened the buck rivets that are between the battery boxes connecting the front panel to the uprights. i may have not done it because there had been alot of water damage in this area. I just noticed it when i water deluged the front end to see if there were any leaks. Now those leaks i temporarily put parbond around the rivets on the exterior to keep them from leaking. I do have one leak above the front window i cannot tell where it is coming from. Its coming in between the top window frame and the shell. I had sealed all that area and i even pulled the rock guard off to seal off this area. i will take pictures later of the outside and inside where the leak is. The good part, i have not found any other leaks and i was putting full open hose on the whole area as if it was a true deluge. At this point i just need encouragement.
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Old 09-15-2014, 10:35 AM   #34
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I the older trailers, there is a steel plate between those boxes and that is attached to the frame. I think this is necessary to prevent front end separation which yours may have been in the beginnings of. I know you don't want to hear this, but I would add some structure there and attach it to the frame. You may have to remove the floor or the belly skin or both to do this. The loose buck rivets are probably from too much stress since there not front hold down plate. That is what my engineer brain is telling me. The 34 ft limited models with the horizontal propane tank bay have even more front end separation problems.

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Old 09-15-2014, 02:27 PM   #35
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Perry, Im not following. When I slid the middle piece in I had to remove all the bolts that held the front end to the frame I think thats why it happened. I had larger 3/8 bolts that i replaced that were installed that fit in the channel 1/4in thick 1x3 that was there. NO doubt when the bolts werent there the aluminum channel lifted off the actual frame and there was definitely stress there because the rusted bolts as i was removing them popped off as if they were under a force.

Here is where the bolts were with a red circle left and white circle red.
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Old 09-15-2014, 02:53 PM   #36
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Bolt locations as of now

a better picture of showing the two large bolts on either end and 6 1/4 self tapping in between.

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Old 09-15-2014, 04:24 PM   #37
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Just move things to the proper location and problem solved. I would still put a stiffener between the battery boxes on top of the C-channel. I did this on my repair in the back using some 1x1 angle laid in the C-channel and put my bolts through that.

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