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Old 09-01-2008, 08:59 AM   #21
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1971 25' Caravanner
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In the old days, 3/4 ply really was 3/4 of an inch. Modern plywood, that is advertised as 3/4, is actually a metric dimension that is around 11/16, plus a hair. The import marine plywoods that are nominally called 3/4, would work just fine. A coat or two of epoxy around edges, and you'r in business.
The "acid" surface of epoxy, is an amine blush, that is easily cleaned off with just a little soapy water, then a light sanding, to give some "tooth" to the surface, then paint, if you wish.
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Old 09-01-2008, 09:12 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by rangebowdrie View Post
In the old days, 3/4 ply really was 3/4 of an inch. Modern plywood, that is advertised as 3/4, is actually a metric dimension that is around 11/16, plus a hair. The import marine plywoods that are nominally called 3/4, would work just fine.
Yep, that too...which is why it worked as a replacement with very little coaxing.

Shari
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Old 09-01-2008, 10:54 AM   #23
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Marine ply is a complete waste of money.

The difference is that inner layers have no knots or voids, required on a boat not in an RV.

Use exterior, same glue.

Now as far as epoxy it's been suggested to coat the edges, why stop there.

I coated the whole floor with a roller in 15 minutes, do you want never think about it again!
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Old 09-02-2008, 05:03 AM   #24
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1958 26' Overlander
Belmont , New York
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Originally Posted by LI Pets View Post
Marine ply is a complete waste of money.

The difference is that inner layers have no knots or voids, required on a boat not in an RV.

Use exterior, same glue.

Now as far as epoxy it's been suggested to coat the edges, why stop there.

I coated the whole floor with a roller in 15 minutes, do you want never think about it again!

We didn't use it and I'm not talking about plywood at all and I'm not using epoxy.

We put in another sheet and it looks excellent, it went in with just a good push and it bolted down tight without any distortion of the c channels. It is astonishing how firm the whole thing feels even partly bolted down again.

The stuff we got was a true 5/8th's. I suppose we could have gotten the 3/4ths and I wonder what kind of dimwit I am not to have recalled Sheri's most excellent advice.

Still, it looks good! The ONLY spot where the c channel is "up" is the interior curve in the front. We'll see if the channel can be dropped a tad when we do the bellypan.If not, we'll figure our some way to shim it - we will be putting linoleum down for our floor surface; maybe we'll just cut it so that it slides under the front curves, THEN bolt it down tight.
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Old 10-22-2008, 09:58 PM   #25
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Atmouse...question about the Coosa Flooring

Can you elaborate on the type of Coosa Flooring you chose? Is it the Marine, Bluewater...or??

Are you pleased with the choice? Can you share the cost of the product and ease of install and attachment hardware you used?

I noticed on the Coosa site that this product (depending on the actual style) is significantly lighter than plywood...that has got to be a plus in the reduction of tow weight.

Lastly...as a relative newbie in the initial stages of researching floor replacement, can you tell me if it is necessary to remove the lower wall panels to properly complete the install??

More photos of your finished product would be great.

Many thanks....
Best,
JB
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