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Old 04-27-2009, 11:13 AM   #41
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PetesPup's Avatar
1989 32' Excella
Meridian , Idaho
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 18
I saw the same thing in the wheel wells. there is a gap in the metal plate right behind the wheels that will let water under the floor. I haven't decided what to do about that yet.

I'm putting marine plywood in mine. Installing it today as a matter of fact. What would it cost to put plywood in during manufacture....... $200 more? I've spent weeks of my time and $1,000 fixing it. dah! Does AS know how upset owners are about this? I love the trailer and want it to last.
'87 Excella 32'
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Old 05-13-2009, 11:08 AM   #42
Argosy 24
1978 Argosy 24
Zionsville , Indiana
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 5
Me Too!

I just picked up my 1st trailer last weekend and am very happy.
Except! I noticed the floor under the front sofa was bouncy. So one thing led to another and next thing I know I have a terrible rot spot below the water tank.
I was able to remove a lot of it without breaking out a tool. I bought a pc of treated plywood to replace it and I plan on painting the visible frame parts. But, today it's raining and I'm noticing water pooling on the aluminum sheathing in the same area I just cleaned up. I think it's coming from the window area and the small light on the front left belly area.
So, 2 questions.
Can I just seal it with a good quality silicone caulk from the inside and outside?
Am I approaching the floor replacement correctly?
I thought the tank must have been leaking, but it seems to have additional leaks.
Which actually raises one more question. Whats the best product to seal up the plastic tank where the fittings go in?
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Old 05-13-2009, 12:01 PM   #43
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bullydogsmom's Avatar
1972 25' Tradewind
old mystic , Connecticut
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 320
Mike, you maybe should start a new thread instead of adding to this one, you'll got lots more relies. But one thing I do know is NO NO NO silicone on an airstream. You need to seal the leaks with Vulcum or a product called TremPro.

Does you rot go under the edge of the floor to the outside wall? If it does, you can't just cut out the plywood, or pull it out if it's that rotted and piece it in. You need to remove the lower interior skin and you will see that the plywood slid under what is called the c-channel and it is then bolted through the c-channel through the plywood and through the frame. The floor is a very intricate part of the airstreams structure.


P.S. Welcome to the world of airstreams!
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Old 05-14-2009, 09:34 PM   #44
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1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
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I will second the statement about NO silicon seal ever on the outside of an Airstream. It sticks well enough that it is horrible to get off but not well enough to keep leaks sealed up.

You might want to think twice about treated plywood. I replaced all of the plywood on my floor with treated plywood and very shortly after I did I discovered that the newer varieties of treated plywood have chemicals in them that are extra corrosive to metals, especially to aluminum. I had to take it all out and start over. In the few weeks that it was in place I could already see corrosive action on screws and etc. I used a plastic type of plywood replacement. If you are just repairing parts of the floor I suggest that you just use a good quality regular plywood and make sure your leaks are fixed.

Only he who attempts the ridiculous can achieve the impossble.
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Old 05-15-2009, 09:12 AM   #45
Argosy 24
1978 Argosy 24
Zionsville , Indiana
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 5
Hey, thanks to both of you for the insight.
I almost made 2 mistakes right off the bat and I've only had this thing a week.
Now I just have to find the right sealants.
By the way, I was thinking of using the silicone from the inside (on the skin), but I guess if it doesn't work outside it won't seal well on the inside either.
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Old 05-15-2009, 09:20 AM   #46
Argosy 24
1978 Argosy 24
Zionsville , Indiana
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 5
One more question.
What about Parrbond? (instead of the Vulcum or TremPro) I see they have it at outdoorsmart.
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Old 05-15-2009, 09:28 AM   #47
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2006 30' Classic S/O
Currently Looking...
Mohrsville , Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,313
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Parbond and addionally Acryl-R is good at wicking in tight spots like panel overlaps and between trim and body panels. I think Vulkem is better if you have a larger area to span and want a visible bead of calk like on window and door "eybrows" and where the back of the trailer meet the bumper / storage lockers. I do not know if Out of Doors Mart carries the Acryl-R, but I know you can get it on the Airstream Store home page...

Acryl-R aplicator


Good luck sealing you leaks, we've all had them.
Carl, Elaine & Finn The Beagle
2006 30' Classic W Slide & Limited Package Katarina
2006 GMC 2500 HD 6.6 Turbo Diesel Crew Cab 8' Bed
AIR #14487
NQ3U (was KB3UOM)
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Old 05-15-2009, 11:54 AM   #48
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1975 Argosy 24
Malakoff , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 490
I understand your age situation. Find a "handy-man" fellow in need of work and agree to an hourly wage. Remove the things necessary to get at the rotted area. Then consider the possible solutions to the problem. Posting photo's back into this thread
would be very helpful. Materials that are strong and "cheap" and relatively easy to work....stiff sheet metal and that green colored Fiberglass Bondo. Oh yes....the leak that caused this....find that bugger soon! An '88....21 years old....get a few tubes of caulk while you're out.
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