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Old 05-23-2004, 06:53 PM   #1
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1959 26' Overlander
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Floor Damage

Seems the filler for the water tank on the Caravel has been leaking. At least thats where the damage is. Need to check the outlet connector as well. I suspect the inlet because the floor was sealed with vinyl and caulked on the edges. I think it went down the wall between interior and exterior panels. The wood was very wet and came apart in fibers. I dryed it out and the wood itself has some fiberous body to it. The glue is pretty much gone between the layers. So here's the plan. Fiberglass putty to make a base, sand out the fibers above the base, fiberglass mat and resin to create a new floor in that area. The PO filled the center channel with foam. The frame member is fine on that size. Then finish the cork floor which is what I was about to do when I found the damage.
Got new connector for the tank inlet connection.
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Old 05-23-2004, 06:57 PM   #2
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I'd use good quality (not what they sell at Home Depot) penetrating epoxy first. Several applications. It will soak in and give strength back even to the areas back in the shell channel.

Mark
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Old 05-23-2004, 07:11 PM   #3
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So where do you get it. That's what I was looking for in HD when I bought the putty ect. Which I have other uses for. Are there trade or brand names. I've seen some stuff online but have no experience with the stuff.
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Old 05-23-2004, 07:18 PM   #4
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floor epoxy

Here's the stuff I used. Seemed to work. I bought the epoxy stuff plus the filler/putty.

http://www.rotdoc.com/
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Old 05-23-2004, 08:36 PM   #5
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I have been very pleased with Rot Doctor as well -VERY pleased. Really, really pleased. But there are other brands. In fact, I understand Rot Doctor is not a manufacturer, just a packager.

Mark
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Old 05-24-2004, 06:03 AM   #6
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Thanks
New plan. Call the Rot Doctor.
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Old 05-24-2004, 07:09 AM   #7
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Go to a marine supply store to pick up the penetrating epoxy. They sell everything you'll need. Joe
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Old 05-24-2004, 07:29 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j54mark
I'd use good quality (not what they sell at Home Depot) penetrating epoxy first. Several applications. It will soak in and give strength back even to the areas back in the shell channel.
I have only used penetrating epoxy once. As I recall, to be effective, the product must be applied in one application. Penetrating epoxies have a slow cure time to enable them to soak into the wood fibers.

If you apply the stuff in coats, you run the risk of the top layer of wood fibers absorbing the first coat, and effectively blocking the lower layers of damaged wood from absorbing any subsequent coats.

The best thing would be to carefully read the directions that come with whatever product you buy.

Tom
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Old 05-24-2004, 07:55 AM   #9
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Rot Doctor has the consistency of water. It can, and frequently must be applied multiple times. Some epoxies are thicker and would have too much viscosity to be applied a second time.

Mark
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Old 05-24-2004, 09:25 AM   #10
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The cheapest I found is from Fiberglass coatings - they have a web site and they ship - as I understand it all epoxy is basically the same, just repackaged. I used it on the 59 and was solid as a rock - make sure the floor is VERY dry or you will seal in the moisture

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Old 05-28-2004, 07:11 AM   #11
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Found a marine place near me which ups's. Got the CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer) Warm Mixture. They have one for cold down to 28. Soaked the plywood and will start building it up when cured.
Also got a new and correct connector for the inlet and tank.
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Old 05-28-2004, 11:05 AM   #12
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I'm interested in seeing pics of the process and after. I have some spots in my Caravel that may be getting the same treatment.
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Old 05-28-2004, 12:52 PM   #13
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As bad as that it...I'd be replacing the wood. These patch products are doo for small areas but thatl looks like the better part of the width of the coach and a good 2-3 ft wide. That is a major loss of structure and the coach is in a weakend state because of it.

Money wise your going to spend more on sub standard "patch" than the wood to repair it correctly is going to cost. Yes, it's a lot of labor but it guaranties the coach will make another 30+years down the road. The coach as it it now is going to be very prone frame drop and speration problems because of a weak condtion between where the U=Channel is fastend to to the deck and the deck is fastend to the frame.
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Old 05-28-2004, 03:05 PM   #14
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The wood fiber is still tough. The glues gone. The area is about curb side to opposite frame rail on street side. It's 9 inches at the widest which is where the water inler for the tank was. In that area about 4 inches for floor is gone in the channel. I've put on the PCES and awaitng cure. About a week. I'll reaccess then.. May have to replace the curved part of the floor if not firm. Need the stuff for some house detail repair anyway and will do the 59 overlander floor from end to end with the stuff prior to an epoxy painting. A project now on hold.
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Old 05-28-2004, 03:50 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
I'm interested in seeing pics of the process and after. I have some spots in my Caravel that may be getting the same treatment.
Hi Stephanie,

One of these days, I am going to learn how to take good pictures, and buy a better camera.

Here are a few pictures that will leave you wanting

The first is the worst case after Rot Doctor equivalent, the second is the "big picture", and the last is when the Rot Doctor equivalent was making the Overlander able to leap tall buildings

The "before" pictures look the same only not as dark in the treated areas.

Make sure your affected areas are bone dry before applying chemicals.

Tom

Edit: Now that I look at the pics again, the "after" picture is after I applied the Rot Doctor stuff, let it cure, and applied some regular fiberglass resin to level it. Oh well, I will let the post stand for any value it adds.
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Old 05-28-2004, 07:36 PM   #16
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Thanks for the pics. I'm almost afraid to pull up the vinyl and look at the floor in the Caravel, but I know I'm going to dig in and do it someday.

Interestingly, your overlander's layout is just like mine, as far as having the fridge right next to the door, and the vent in the floor. Did you reinforce around that floor vent at all? Mine looks rough, but I'm sure it's just cosmetic.
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Old 05-29-2004, 03:18 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
... Did you reinforce around that floor vent at all? Mine looks rough, but I'm sure it's just cosmetic.
No, I did not. Although my vent area was structurally sound (no water damage), it had been chewed on by squirrels who hoped to get out there instead of the way they came in, which was via the overhead refrigerator vent.

Since no one will be walking on the floor vent, there did not seem to be a good reason to spend time on it.

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Old 05-29-2004, 06:34 AM   #18
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Did you use just resin or putty. Your area was more contained at least on the surface.
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Old 05-29-2004, 10:49 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psychpw
Did you use just resin or putty. Your area was more contained at least on the surface.
I just used a Rot Doctor equivalent, and after that cured, the area was floated with fibergalss resin (no mat or cloth since it was so shallow).

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Old 05-31-2004, 09:09 PM   #20
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OK. So someone could have warned me about the fiberglass mat stuff. What a pain that is to work with. Comes apart all over the place. Please, use the cloth. Otherwise we seem to be in good shape. Cork floor is in and tank is filled for leak testing.
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