Flex in Floor - 71 Overlander

[Ganglin]

Took the heavily padded carpet up this weekend in the bath to do vinyl tiles. Found an area in the floor that flexes about 1/4 of an inch. The toilet in this unit is recessed into an alcove - the flex area (sorry ladies) is right where your left foot is while getting rid of beer during breaks in the OSU Texas game.

The wood isn't stained like it's ever been wet and has a solid sound when struck with a hammer... Get 8 inches out and the floor is rock solid....

Not much info. and probably need to add a photo - but, any thoughts. Has anyone tried Min Wax wood hardener to cure a small problem area like this...?

[LI Pets]

Fiberglas the whole bath floor area with 2 layers of 6oz fiberglas and use epoxy resin.

It will outlast the trailer

[Ganglin]

If we do fiberglass on the floor won't it raise the bathroom floor level to a point that the bath and bedroom area flooring won't meet evenly....

[LI Pets]

Use 6 oz cloth, resin it in, let it setup about a day step on it see if its stong enough, if not put a second layer on it.

It isn't that thick, two layers are thinner than vinyl tile

[Ganglin]

OK - sounds like a solid idea (pardon the pun) what do you think about doing it from underneath. Looking at the service manual and it looks like we can get to most of the area from the trunk.

Thinking - do the Minwax hardener and then the tiles on top. From the underside add the fiberglass. Would you automatically do two layers from the underside since there would be no concern about the thickness. There are no other floor issues in this unit so I'm trying to deal with everthing else - had no plans to tackle a floor problem.

Thanks for the assist.

[LI Pets]

You can do it that way but a lot harder, here's what you do you lay the fiberglass on a large piece of cardboard.

Now "wet out" the whole piece with resin on the cardboard, now pick it up like a wet towel and lay it up, it will stay there, you need to set it up with a 'quick dry' meaning adding a bit more hardner.

Done on boats all the time.

[Ganglin]

OK - I'll try it. Really appreciate the help.

[LI Pets]

Go to defender.com best prices for glass and get the MAS resin system.

800.628.8225

[Ganglin]

Frustrated slightly that the floor flexed without evidence of water damage other than a few stains. Here is the floor after filling in the low spots to keep the tiles from conforming to the low spots. We then sealed it with floor prep and and applied additional adhesive to help set the self adhesive vynil tiles.

[Ganglin]

Didn't want to reinforce the floor if it wasn't necessary (although we tried Lipets recommendation on scrap lumber and it works like a charm - rock solid - we have another place this will work well - later post).

Looking around in the trunk it looks like this unit had work done on the bath in the past. What you don't see in the attached photo is a circular hole - cut professionally - to access the toilet bolts just above this photo.

We think the problem is that the back lip of the interior sink base wasn't reattached with screws as needed to the bath flooring. The one screw you see carried all the weight and snapped due to the weight. Notice the empty screw hole to the right of the one that's broken the support lip. Probably others on over to the right that we didn't see behind the battery.

[Ganglin]

First thought is to remove the broken screw and either trim the broken floor edge with a piece of folded aluminum and replace the screw - then replace the others to the right with stainless screws. Or use a piece of stainless 3/8ths by 3 inches plate for the broken one to stiffen it and the stainless screws in the remaining.

Another question is that the bathroom floor is stamped "exterior grade plywood". Was that used in 1971 or is it an indication of a replacement floor.

Finally, couldn't resist adding a photo of Juno - his second visit to the Stream...

Thanks for your thoughts .......