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09-11-2011, 10:07 AM
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#21
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2 Rivet Member
1970 29' Ambassador
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 55
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I'm working on my plumbing layout now. I need to get the tanks figured out so I can move forward with the floor. I am going to add a 16 gallon gray tank from VTS. I know that is not very big, but seeing how I can drain it onto the ground I'm not that worried about it. The black tank appears to be in good shape. It has a UPS shipping label on it going to Bob Jones RV in Houston in 1983, so the tank was replaced around then. Anybody got a good way to test it out or a good reason not to use it?
For fresh water I'm for sure going to get a 28 gallon tank from VTS which I will put above the floor and build into a b3ench on the street side opposite the kitchen. I am considering also adding a 20 gallon tank in the nose of the trailer for additional water for longer trips.
I plan to use air admittance valves anywhere I can (all the sink drains at least). I understand that the fresh tanks will essentially vent themselves through the fill opening. Can my black and gray tank share a vent?
Fire away with suggestions as this feels like a daunting part of the rebuild and I need to order tanks like yesterday.
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09-11-2011, 03:50 PM
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#22
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2 Rivet Member
1974 23' Safari
Pointe Claire
, Quebec
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 31
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Should weight distribution not be a consideration in the design stage. 10lbs per gallon for water. My airstream vented the gray water, shower and toilet all through the same vent stack.
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09-11-2011, 09:07 PM
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#23
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Rivet Master
1959 17' Pacer
Long Beach
, California
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P&K
I'm working on my plumbing layout now. I need to get the tanks figured out so I can move forward with the floor. I am going to add a 16 gallon gray tank from VTS. I know that is not very big, but seeing how I can drain it onto the ground I'm not that worried about it. The black tank appears to be in good shape. It has a UPS shipping label on it going to Bob Jones RV in Houston in 1983, so the tank was replaced around then. Anybody got a good way to test it out or a good reason not to use it?
For fresh water I'm for sure going to get a 28 gallon tank from VTS which I will put above the floor and build into a b3ench on the street side opposite the kitchen. I am considering also adding a 20 gallon tank in the nose of the trailer for additional water for longer trips.
I plan to use air admittance valves anywhere I can (all the sink drains at least). I understand that the fresh tanks will essentially vent themselves through the fill opening. Can my black and gray tank share a vent?
Fire away with suggestions as this feels like a daunting part of the rebuild and I need to order tanks like yesterday.
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I love VTS for a LOT of things, but the tanks did not seem to be cost efficient there. I found these 11 gallon ones for $70 each, and although I haven't received my two yet, I am ordering with custom fittings and sensors, and they'll end up being less than the VTS price. For freshwater I purchased a 42 gal one on ppl motor homes on a clearance sale for $140 incl. shipping, which is more comparable to VTS, but the size fit better.
- Peter
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09-12-2011, 09:35 AM
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#24
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2 Rivet Member
1970 29' Ambassador
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 55
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Weight distribution is important for sure. In fact I didn't even list it because in my mind it is a given. By all means, suggest away. Im not reusing my fresh water tank because it is broken. Im not buying a direct replacement because they are $500 and that is highway robbery. Would just one bigger tank be a better solution right in the nose? I could build it into the pull out couch I guess.
I like suggestions for cheaper tanks, especially if you know where I can get them NOW. I need them as soon as possible.
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09-12-2011, 09:41 AM
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#25
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Rivet Master
1959 17' Pacer
Long Beach
, California
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P&K
Weight distribution is important for sure. In fact I didn't even list it because in my mind it is a given. By all means, suggest away. Im not reusing my fresh water tank because it is broken. Im not buying a direct replacement because they are $500 and that is highway robbery. Would just one bigger tank be a better solution right in the nose? I could build it into the pull out couch I guess.
I like suggestions for cheaper tanks, especially if you know where I can get them NOW. I need them as soon as possible.
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Well the 42 gallon freshwater tank from ppl came within 5 days, and I ordered the cheap shipping. However, the tanks take 2-3 weeks from RV surplus, and I'm on week 3 with no word of shipping, so I wouldn't rely on that for speed.
My floor is in a holding pattern and I'm finding things to paint and polish in the meantime.
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09-13-2011, 07:44 PM
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#26
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2 Rivet Member
1970 29' Ambassador
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 55
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I need to do some measuring, but I'm thinking I will just put one bigger tank under the fold out couch in the nose. That will even things out. What do you guys think? I need help with this part.
I'm probably going to scrap the gray tank idea for a few reasons. Number one is that VTS is out of them for a while. Number 2 is that I don't t think its that important anyway, and its going to seriously hold up my efforts. Number 3 is that I think I can plumb for it and just cap it off and install one later from underneath if I want. I will be doing the belly pan in 48" sections.
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09-14-2011, 12:36 AM
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#27
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Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
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Check out these tanks. I used one for black and one for grey.
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09-14-2011, 07:19 AM
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#28
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2 Rivet Member
1974 23' Safari
Pointe Claire
, Quebec
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 31
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Can you locate your water tank closer to the axles? Let the axles carry the loaded weight. You'll increase the tongue weight loaded with water.
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09-14-2011, 08:13 AM
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#29
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2 Rivet Member
1970 29' Ambassador
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 55
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Didn't they put the water tank under the front window on older model trailers? Doesn't more tongue weight, countered by the weight distribution system, equal a smoother ride? I'm planning on an open floor plan with one big living/kitchen. The bathroom would be the only closed off space. The only other place I can think to put the tank is along the side opposite the kitchen.
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09-14-2011, 08:16 AM
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#30
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2 Rivet Member
1970 29' Ambassador
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 55
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Streamtrain - you are just figuring out your rot situation? It can be a terrible feeling, but it is fixable. Long road though...many hours of lost sleep...Im having fun though
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09-15-2011, 07:13 AM
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#31
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2 Rivet Member
1974 23' Safari
Pointe Claire
, Quebec
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 31
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I'm not worried about the rot, more so just finishing the season for work. I live/work in my trailer from April till November. After that I can build my own frame and shorten the trailer.
I have a cargo trailer that I purchased from an Electrician who had it custom made. The axles are really far back from the tongue. My airstream is also a swept back axle. Both of these trailer exert a lot of weight on the hitch. I haul with a 3/4 ton HD and it's surprising how much weight pushes down on the back of the truck with the Airstream, and it's gutted inside. I've built utility trailers so the pricipales are the same. I feel that overloading the tongue is not nessissary if the weight is distributed accordingly on the trailer. Addding weight to the front is as bad as to much to the rear.
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09-15-2011, 03:07 PM
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#32
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2 Rivet Member
1970 29' Ambassador
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 55
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The heavy tongue weight is why you have to have a weight distributing hitch. There is pretty much no camper that gets around that.
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09-16-2011, 03:29 PM
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#33
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2 Rivet Member
1970 29' Ambassador
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 55
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Sorry, that post reads kind of rude. Didn't mean it that way. It just seems that the tongue is always supported by either the truck or the tongue jack, so it doesn't suffer from the same stress as the rear. I could be wrong. Just saying.
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09-16-2011, 03:44 PM
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#34
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Rivet Master
2009 27' FB Flying Cloud
1982 31' International
1991 35' Airstream 350
Jay
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,706
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Nice work on the frame. The only thing that comes to mind on two fresh water tanks is how to plumb the pump to both. One would need a selector of some sort. Or, perhaps allow one to gravity feed into the other and have the pump to source from the lower tank.
I would reconsider the gray tank issue. I don't know your plans, but no campground I have stayed in will allow dumping of gray water. Some won't even allow the use of an external "blue" tank.
I dump gray water, albeit on the sly, at NASCAR tracks and when dry camping in remote spots and really don’t see a problem. But campgrounds seem to hold another opinion.
Good Luck!
__________________
Jeff & Cindy
'09 27FB Flying Cloud;'82 31 International
'91 350 LE MH; '21 Interstate 24GT
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09-19-2011, 10:41 AM
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#35
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2 Rivet Member
1970 29' Ambassador
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 55
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Oh lord. Now you got me wondering. Does anyone know of a good source for a gray tank that will fit between the frame rails? Or any ideas on an above floor gray tank involving pumps or something?
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09-19-2011, 11:37 AM
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#36
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Always learning
1972 29' Ambassador
1962 19' Globetrotter
1951 21' Flying Cloud
Central
, Texas
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,881
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P,
Ronco plastics makes a nice tank that fits perfectly. It is their 17H black tank.
__________________
Lance
Work is never done, so take time to play!
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09-19-2011, 11:58 AM
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#37
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Rivet Master
1959 17' Pacer
Long Beach
, California
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P&K
Oh lord. Now you got me wondering. Does anyone know of a good source for a gray tank that will fit between the frame rails? Or any ideas on an above floor gray tank involving pumps or something?
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Here: RV Surplus
Or here: Gray Water Tank
Or have them custom made. Pumps would work fine. Unless you have a shower, you could even put them above the floor. However, space is at a premium in my 18', so putting them between the frame rails is very important for me.
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09-19-2011, 12:46 PM
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#38
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2 Rivet Member
1970 29' Ambassador
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 55
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Top,
I like that tank but am hoping to fit the tank totally within the rails, like the one from VTS does. Unfortunately, VTS is out of tanks for a couple more weeks and I need one now. Yikes.
Where can I have one custom made? One place I talked to said it would cost $1500.
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09-19-2011, 12:54 PM
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#39
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2 Rivet Member
1970 29' Ambassador
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 55
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So lets talk floor plan, Im thinking of doing something similar to this which I'm sure everyone has seen. I like the one big open space with only the bathroom separate. What do you guys think? I need opinions.
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09-19-2011, 06:23 PM
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#40
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Always learning
1972 29' Ambassador
1962 19' Globetrotter
1951 21' Flying Cloud
Central
, Texas
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,881
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Custom tanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by P&K
Top,
I like that tank but am hoping to fit the tank totally within the rails, like the one from VTS does. Unfortunately, VTS is out of tanks for a couple more weeks and I need one now. Yikes.
Where can I have one custom made? One place I talked to said it would cost $1500.
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P,
Have you looked at all the tanks on Pelland's web site? They are resellers of just about all the big plastic tank manufacturers. As far as custom tanks, have you tried all-rite? They quoted me a price quickly and said they could ship within 48 hours.
__________________
Lance
Work is never done, so take time to play!
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