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Old 10-13-2021, 06:02 AM   #1
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1964 17' Bambi II
1961 24' Tradewind
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Epoxy: penetrating or not?

I am very near the step when I need to cut new subfloor pieces to install and finally marry the frame back to the shell.

I want to go the epoxy route. I am looking at Total Boat products. This is what I have seen Ian Miller from Miller Garage using. He is the only one I can find whom actually documented the process on video.

My questions are:

1) penetrating epoxy or not? (Ian uses non-penetrating Total Boat with medium hardener, from what I can discern). Penetrating seems to make more sense to me, but maybe it is not necessary?

2) I know I should coat the top, side edges, edges of any holes cut for plumbing. I believe I am supposed to leave the bottom untreated...so any rogue water/leaks can find a way out and not be trapped. Does this sound right?

https://www.amazon.com/TotalBoat-Pen...NrPXRydWU&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/TotalBoat-Hig...2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1
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Old 10-13-2021, 06:48 AM   #2
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Thatís the way we did it on the 55. Penetrating epoxy on the top, edges and underneath for about a foot. After all dried, I rolled on some exterior paint on the top mainly to make it easier to see chalk lines and marks for cabinetry layout. We just pulled the shell off an original 63 Bambi over the weekend for a friend of mine. We will use the same method for his floor. Good luck
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Old 10-13-2021, 07:52 AM   #3
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A good source for epoxy in bulk is US Composites. No affiliation, but I used their products when I restored a wrecked ski boat a few years back. I am sure Total Boat products are fine, but probably pricey. I think the goal is to seal the edge of the plywood and un-thinned epoxy should accomplish that goal fine.

FWIW, I generally use the 3:1 epoxy for general all around use. I have had success in thinning this epoxy both with heat and solvents. Cannot really remember which solvent is the best: acetone, xylene, etc. But, you can do some research and choose the best method. A heat gun works really well, accelerates curing and no worries about breaking down the epoxy as solvents can do.
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Old 10-13-2021, 10:16 AM   #4
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X2 with Bubba

Penetrating on top, edges and 6" on the bottom.
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Old 10-13-2021, 11:36 AM   #5
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us the stuff that penatrates.
I did. don't want to have to redo the floor anytime soon.
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Old 10-13-2021, 12:48 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubba L View Post
Thatís the way we did it on the 55. Penetrating epoxy on the top, edges and underneath for about a foot. After all dried, I rolled on some exterior paint on the top mainly to make it easier to see chalk lines and marks for cabinetry layout. We just pulled the shell off an original 63 Bambi over the weekend for a friend of mine. We will use the same method for his floor. Good luck
Hey Bubba. Thanks. This is just the message I needed. I have been dragging my feet ordering product to get these floors coated. Glad to hear from someone who has been there/done that.

I read on your page 1/2 gallon was enough (with lacquer thinning) to do your whole floor. My trailer is only 24'. I think I will go with 1/2 gallon and make it stretch.
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Old 10-13-2021, 02:02 PM   #7
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Youíre right. Go with a half and see if it does it. Double check on whether itís lacquer thinner or acetone. Their formula may be different now. Stretch it, itíll work. A friend of mine just purchased a 61 Tradewind they want me to help them with renovating. I may have some questions in the future. Thanks and good luck.
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Old 10-13-2021, 08:14 PM   #8
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Hi Bubba... feeling my way through a '61 Tradewind as you know. Ask away. I will share whatever knowledge I have.

I spent some time cutting new subfloor pieces tonight in preparation and ordered the penetrating epoxy.

Looking forward to an old plywood subfloor burning party soon!
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Old Yesterday, 09:28 AM   #9
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Hi

If you need a way to spend more time doing this .... put a second coat on the edges after the first coat has dried for a while.

Bob
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Old Yesterday, 10:06 AM   #10
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Hi

If you need a way to spend more time doing this .... put a second coat on the edges after the first coat has dried for a while.

Bob
I was planning on doing this. My concern here, now in PA, is that the weather is a-changing. It took me forever to get a welder over to assist with frame repairs. Now that is done, and I feel an urgency to get the new subfloor sections in before the weather truly turns.

I think I will have enough time to get things sealed and buttoned up before cold and snow come, and then I can work on some wiring, etc. inside the trailer.

It's an exciting process, as anyone who has "done" a vintage Airstream will attest. It is hard to think about what to logically do next. But I am getting there-
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Old Today, 07:19 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PA BAMBI II View Post
I was planning on doing this. My concern here, now in PA, is that the weather is a-changing. It took me forever to get a welder over to assist with frame repairs. Now that is done, and I feel an urgency to get the new subfloor sections in before the weather truly turns.

I think I will have enough time to get things sealed and buttoned up before cold and snow come, and then I can work on some wiring, etc. inside the trailer.

It's an exciting process, as anyone who has "done" a vintage Airstream will attest. It is hard to think about what to logically do next. But I am getting there-
Hi

So far this has been a crazy warm / crazy dry fall. I agree that this will eventually change. When ... who knows.

Bob
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