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Old 11-07-2011, 09:13 PM   #21
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Darkspeed

How do you get your links to post with a clean [description] and not http://...
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Old 11-07-2011, 10:38 PM   #22
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Darkspeed

How do you get your links to post with a clean [description] and not http://...
Type the text you want as a link , then select it, then paste the actual URL to that highlighted text.
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Old 11-09-2011, 07:58 PM   #23
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Bike Rack?

I saw a couple of really nice Airstreams yesterday in St. Augustine Texas. One had a bike rack on the rear and that has really got me thinking. I may add a little reinforcement to the frame and put one on as well. It would be very useful and now would be the time. I have heard this is a bad idea but the moment created by an extra 40 pounds off the back is probably less than some of the other junk I have carried. Grey and black water tanks are at the back and add at least 80lbs at 8 ft behind axles when full. What do you think?
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Old 11-14-2011, 10:32 AM   #24
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Better to put them on the front of your tow vehicle.

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Old 02-04-2012, 08:41 PM   #25
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I have finally Been able to get back on the airstream. I purchased some trempro 635 and have been very disappointed. It sets very hard/permanent compared to what was removed. Does anyone know of anything more comparable to the original? What I have removed on the inside of the shell along the seams could be reused if It was clean, still very pliable and sticky.
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Old 02-05-2012, 03:00 AM   #26
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Most likely it was butyl tape. My '64 Bambi II had a lot of it inside as well.

Butyl RV Putty Tape
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Old 02-05-2012, 12:20 PM   #27
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I have finally Been able to get back on the airstream. I purchased some trempro 635 and have been very disappointed. It sets very hard/permanent compared to what was removed. Does anyone know of anything more comparable to the original? What I have removed on the inside of the shell along the seams could be reused if It was clean, still very pliable and sticky.
Vulkem sealer works great.

Andy
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Old 03-11-2012, 01:34 PM   #28
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Vulkem sealer works great.

Andy
I now have some Vulkem. It is closer to what I am looking for but still not the same. It is not like the butyl tape I have either. This seems like a sticky cookie dough or taffy. Any other ideas?
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Old 03-11-2012, 03:44 PM   #29
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Caulk and Rivets

Maybe this is what I am looking for?

Krylon WL00114 White Butyl Caulk

I am getting close to putting the shell back on. There were several solid rivets that I had to remove to pull the shell off. Most of these were hidden by the belt trim at the bottom. When i go back on can these be pop rivets? Some of them were originally pop rivets and they will all be hidden. The belt trim that bridges between the bannana trim and the sides of the shell looks like it provides the weather barrier. Any thoughts?

Thanks
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Old 03-11-2012, 03:54 PM   #30
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I now have some Vulkem. It is closer to what I am looking for but still not the same. It is not like the butyl tape I have either. This seems like a sticky cookie dough or taffy. Any other ideas?
After the Vulkem cures out, it's no longer "sticky".

I would suggest you stay with a product that has a known good history.

Andy
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Old 03-11-2012, 06:47 PM   #31
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You really should replace solid rivets (buck rivets) with the same. They are a lot of the strength that holds your shell on to your channel that's on your floor. When you re-install your trim, use plenty of Vulkem (or Tempro) behind it. You also should put a dab of Tempro into each rivet hole a you re-install your rivets. Extra measure to keep little leaks out!
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Old 03-13-2012, 07:46 PM   #32
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Thanks for the information. I have rivets and tools on the way. I wish I could match the sealer from the factory. I am positive the sealer I am looking at is Factory applied and It is definitely different than the Vulkem available today. My rivets and tools look like they will be here this week. Unfortunatly my items from Skygeek have not shipped. Very dissapointing since all items show to be in stock but the order shows to be waiting to ship complete. I'm getting close to shell back on.
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Old 03-14-2012, 05:31 PM   #33
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Thanks for the information. I have rivets and tools on the way. I wish I could match the sealer from the factory. I am positive the sealer I am looking at is Factory applied and It is definitely different than the Vulkem available today. My rivets and tools look like they will be here this week. Unfortunatly my items from Skygeek have not shipped. Very dissapointing since all items show to be in stock but the order shows to be waiting to ship complete. I'm getting close to shell back on.
I had some kind of sealer in my '86 around the windows that looked like marshmellow fluff. Really gooey & white. I don't know what it is either, but I haven't had any problems redoing my '64 Bambi II without it. Good luck with the rivets. Do a little practicing before you go for the real thing!
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Old 03-24-2012, 09:19 PM   #34
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Finally got the shell back on today. I replaced the angle at the back with a stainless piece, treated all corrosion spots with the four step process I stole from TOP. Set the shell down with only minimal coaxing and bucked a lot of Rivets. Now I think I have to take it off again because the wheel well trim won't slide on with the shell on. I guess they came off on the old floor because it was rotton but I did not have them listed as something that had to be done before the shell went back on.
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Old 03-25-2012, 07:19 AM   #35
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Do you have pictures of what won't go back on? Maybe someone would have a suggestion of how to put them on without taking the shell back off! Sounds pretty frustrating!
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:41 PM   #36
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Shell Interference

The internal wheel well trim needs to slide onto the floor. It looks like I could trim the shell to get it in and then patch it. The Patch should be hidden behind the outer trim when complete? Should I proceed with this plan or just pull the shell back off? I have already drilled the holes oversize and bucked a lot of rivets but I could do it again.
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:47 PM   #37
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Pictures

Here are some pictures, I hope?
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Old 03-27-2012, 06:37 AM   #38
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I'm going to bump this.....maybe someone else can give advise....I'm not sure what you should do.
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Old 03-27-2012, 08:32 AM   #39
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I'm going to bump this.....maybe someone else can give advise....I'm not sure what you should do.
Yeah. Probably a good idea to get some more eyes on this. My wheel wells do not look the same, but if they are similar, I could envision you cutting them in half, putting them in the gap, sliding them underneath the plywood, and then riveting them together with a seam strip of aluminum that overlaps both sides of the cut.
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Old 03-27-2012, 01:33 PM   #40
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Other Options

Since one Side is close to the water heater I can probably pop a few rivets out and curl the skin out of the way. The other side can be done like in the picture. Thanks for everyones ideas. I feel like I have rolled the trojan horse behind enemy lines without getting in it.
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