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Old 10-17-2012, 10:49 PM   #21
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1975 31' Sovereign
Pierre , South Dakota
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 133
Thanks Wabbiteer and Frank. Frank I have been trying to call today to discuss this repair. Sounds like you fellows have seen this before. How should this door jamb/sill weld be performed.
All I have is FCAW unit so I will have to bring in a local welder. I would like to have everything cleaned, and jigged up where he can just weld.
All Advise will be greatly appreciated,
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Old 10-18-2012, 03:54 AM   #22
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1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
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Fortunately, I have not had to deal with this issue. When you go looking for a welder to fix this, ask to see some examples of the aluminum he or she(you can only hope, lady welders do awesome work compared to their male counterparts. Yes, sexist but true) has done. Steel is a piece of cake, stainless is a challenge, but aluminum is a whole other ball of wax. Once you find a welder who does good work, they will know exactly how to fix this issue. I think it will be a matter of cutting out the old weld and then filling it back in with new material once it is in the proper position. I would also suggest you look just forward of the door and make sure that the section of channel is in the right plane with the door. In the photos it looks as though the bottom lip is pushed out just a little. This might be because it is not in as far as it should be. This might also be due to the bad weld(s). I think you might also have a little adjustment on the hinges, but am not certain on this. The 71 we are currently doing has a different door hinge, but allows for a lot of adjustment via bolts holding it onto the door. Your era is just a little younger than we normally deal with.

Sorry I missed your call. I left my phone charger at home and the battery died first thing in the morning. Try me today and hopefully I can help you out.
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Old 11-17-2012, 11:47 PM   #23
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1975 31' Sovereign
Pierre , South Dakota
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 133
Well it looks like I have shot myself in the foot on this repair.

There are only two welding shops in town (40 miles away) I have contacted both one there building burnt down recently and is out of business and the other will not return my call after repeated attempts to get them to come out to do the welding of the door frame.
I am about at my wits end on this one. The only other thing I can think of is to drill out the rivets around the door, pull the door and frame, take to Sioux Falls or Rapid City 3.5 to 4.5 hours away
As it is now the trailer shell will have to be raised to make the necessary weld, I have it clecoed in place at this time. I just didn't won't to remove the door/frame .
So I guess my question to all the experienced airstreamers is; How difficult is the door to pull and realign and install. After removal should I make a jig to hold the door frame in shape while the frame is being welded.
Any and all advise will be appreciated,
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