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Old 09-09-2007, 03:06 PM   #21
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What is a front hold down plate and how difficult to install is it?

Tom
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Old 09-09-2007, 03:25 PM   #22
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Quote:
Pictures of the passenger side and the center section and an update on the driver's side with some of the material pulled out.
Holly cow...

Good Luck...........
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Old 09-09-2007, 04:25 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henw
What is a front hold down plate and how difficult to install is it?

Tom
I'm not sure a hold-down plate can be installed on models with a utility box welded between the front brace.

Older models did not have the utility box.

M
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Old 09-09-2007, 04:54 PM   #24
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"The problem I see with this approach is that row of revits will become the future seperation fail point. If that happens there will be no way to cover the failure."

HowiE,
I see no way around this delemia, the attachment point will always be the point of failure.

I attached a piece of flat stock behind the exiseting C channel for reinforcement and added a new piece of sheet aluminum skin.

Your plan to add a band sounds like a good one.

Michael
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Old 09-09-2007, 07:03 PM   #25
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looks like I am going to have to open up the inner skin because it looks like the complete standing leg of the floor channel has been torn off by the outer skin between the battery boxes. The skin is short in this area and the rivets were set very close to the top of the channel and thus failed there. So far I have just gotten my finger up in there as a check but there is no standing leg at that part of the channel.

I have been told that the inner skin can be removed as one piece but I am considering just cutting the bottom 10 or 12 ins.out and working in an area that will be hidden by the coach.

What alloy material should I get. Not sure that matters since the skin looks like it is very soft but i thought I should ask.
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Old 09-10-2007, 08:30 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artstream
I'm not sure a hold-down plate can be installed on models with a utility box welded between the front brace.
M
Are you speeking just to Tom's question here or are is the electrical box also welded in place on my 91?

If so is there any reason not to cut off the lower 12 ins. of the inner skin to get access to the floor channel and install new material?

This cut would not show as it is behind the couch.
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Old 09-10-2007, 09:13 AM   #27
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ueen Mary, and using a hitch bar that

Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE
Well i just got around to opening up the front of my trailer to see just what had seperated. The picture below is of the drivers side front corner. The body skin has completely torn free of the floor channel and hammered some of itself back inside the skin.

At first impression there is not enough material in the skin to rerevit through. I am considering trying to fit a band up inside the body and reviting it to the skin and then reviting that band to the floor channel. This will result in a row of revits just above the bannana strip.

The problem I see with this approach is that row of revits will become the future seperation fail point. If that happens there will be no way to cover the failure.

Click on the picture to enlarge.

I will post aditional pictures depending on how this works.

Beautiful example of what happens when the tow vehicle is super heavy duty, enough to tow the Queen Mary, and using hitch bars with excessive ratings.

This damage will happen every time, just give the coach some travel time in miles.

Andy
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Old 09-10-2007, 09:27 AM   #28
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"Beautiful example of what happens when the tow vehicle is super heavy duty, enough to tow the Queen Mary, and using hitch bars with excessive ratings.

This damage will happen every time, just give the coach some travel time in miles."


This is depressing. Any preventive measures that can be taken.

Tom
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Old 09-10-2007, 12:16 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henw
This is depressing. Any preventive measures that can be taken.
Tom
Tom

There are those, noted above, who would suggest staying home and not using your trailer as the best maintenance. However if you have over 115,000 miles of travel to points like Alaska, all of Canada, and most of our back roads you got to except some ware.

The pictures below are from inside the trailer between the battery boxes. The upper edge of the floor channel on the right has seperated from the channel and the revits on the left side have all come out. The whole front assembly has moved forward about 5/8 of an in. in the area. I plan to install a strong Al. angles to the base of the studs and Al. angle to replace the original upright piece of the floor channel and fasten the outer skin to it.

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Old 09-11-2007, 09:02 AM   #30
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howie, you seem to be writing a new book on front end separation. i may have the same problem with my '93. i've been noticing flex and gapping between frame and shell during the hitching -unhitching process and have chose to plant my head firmly in the sand on this problem.

thanks for sharing your experience as i will have to go down this same road this winter.
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Old 09-11-2007, 03:45 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henw
"Beautiful example of what happens when the tow vehicle is super heavy duty, enough to tow the Queen Mary, and using hitch bars with excessive ratings.

This damage will happen every time, just give the coach some travel time in miles."


This is depressing. Any preventive measures that can be taken.

Tom
The overload springs should be removed from the tow vehicle, and, select a hitch bar rating that is absolutely minimal, like 550 to 600 pounds.

Also, make sure the axles are good, and the running gear is properly balanced.

Andy
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Old 09-11-2007, 04:58 PM   #32
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Andy....Weak hitch bars....I understand why.. So your saying its much better to tow an AS with a 1/2 ton than a 3/4 ton even????
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Old 09-11-2007, 05:00 PM   #33
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I ask this because We are making plans to buy a new tow vehicle in the not too far distant future. I was thinking of a 3/4 ton to pull a 25' Safari. And...We haul a bunch of stuff in the bed with a heavy canopy and tool boxes also?
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Old 09-11-2007, 05:34 PM   #34
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Red face

I haul things and need the 3/4 ton. If I go camping or a long trip I like to take things with me so I am self supportive. I would be overloaded with a half ton and a bed full of generator and tools....and camping stuff with a Gorrila slide and Bed cover that weight almost 500# without anything in them. Thats why I was asking about the 3/4 ton. I go prepared for anything....I am the one who usually is ask to help out when others are in trouble. I have always been that way and always will be. I take tools and a 250lb genny....But its quiet..lol...HONDA Eu6500i....its almost as quiet as the 2000i...but I need the load capacity. A half ton won't do it. Thank Andy..you answer my question. I talk too much...lol
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Old 09-11-2007, 05:58 PM   #35
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DFord79,

As it stands right now, based on the research I've done, the only 1/2 ton truck which stands half a chance of towing a 34'r is the Ford F-150, because it has a fully boxed frame. That said, even with a 10,000lb tow rating, I still wouldn't use a 1/2 ton to tow that much weight.

My 2005 Dodge Ram 3/4 ton CTD was rated to tow 13,000lbs. My 2001 Dodge Ram 1 ton CTD is rated to 14,300lbs. You only want to tow about 80% of the vehicle's maximum tow rating.

Towing a 34'r with a 1/2 ton is just plain dangerous and can get someone seriously injured/killed. When towing, make sure your vehicle is properly equipped, ie: proper brake controller, proper sized tow vehicle brakes (most manufacturers have tow packages), jake brake for insurance, if you're towing a decent sized trailer.

Hope that helps with your decision.

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Old 09-11-2007, 06:13 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StingrayL82
DFord79,

As it stands right now, based on the research I've done, the only 1/2 ton truck which stands half a chance of towing a 34'r is the Ford F-150, because it has a fully boxed frame. That said, even with a 10,000lb tow rating, I still wouldn't use a 1/2 ton to tow that much weight.

My 2005 Dodge Ram 3/4 ton CTD was rated to tow 13,000lbs. My 2001 Dodge Ram 1 ton CTD is rated to 14,300lbs. You only want to tow about 80% of the vehicle's maximum tow rating.

Towing a 34'r with a 1/2 ton is just plain dangerous and can get someone seriously injured/killed. When towing, make sure your vehicle is properly equipped, ie: proper brake controller, proper sized tow vehicle brakes (most manufacturers have tow packages), jake brake for insurance, if you're towing a decent sized trailer.

Hope that helps with your decision.

Frederic
I agree completely with Bigger is better when towing for safety sake. I am a fleet manager and understand pickup truck capabilities. I was just worried about this separation thing with the AS. I would tow with a ONE TON dually if it would not tear up the AS. I carry stuff....So I need more truck. MORE brakes....is a biggie too. The 80% rule is a good thing to go buy with regards to safety.
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Old 09-11-2007, 06:39 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DFord79
I agree completely with Bigger is better when towing for safety sake. I am a fleet manager and understand pickup truck capabilities. I was just worried about this separation thing with the AS. I would tow with a ONE TON dually if it would not tear up the AS. I carry stuff....So I need more truck. MORE brakes....is a biggie too. The 80% rule is a good thing to go buy with regards to safety.
Duallies are a no-no for towing Airstreams, unless it is one of the 5th wheel models. With twice as many tires in the back to run over bumps in the road, and a very stiff suspension, they will eat your trailer's lunch in short order. BTW, my 3/4 ton pickup has 2000 pound payload. I'm not sure when 3/4 ton stopped equalling 1500 pounds. Even with that, towing capacity is still 8500 pounds.
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Old 09-11-2007, 06:40 PM   #38
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Camel

Quote:
Originally Posted by DFord79
Andy....Weak hitch bars....I understand why.. So your saying its much better to tow an AS with a 1/2 ton than a 3/4 ton even????
A camel.
Towing with a camel will keep your Airstream front-end in tip-top shape.


Michael
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Old 09-11-2007, 06:41 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
Duallies are a no-no for towing Airstreams, unless it is one of the 5th wheel models. With twice as many tires in the back to run over bumps in the road, and a very stiff suspension, they will eat your trailer's lunch in short order....
Good! That'll give me an excuse to redo the trailer the right way, when the time comes, LOL!!!!!!

Frederic
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Old 09-11-2007, 06:42 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artstream
A camel.
Towing with a camel will keep your Airstream front-end in tip-top shape.


Michael
So, is that a 3/4 ton, or 1/2 ton camel?
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