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Old 07-02-2007, 09:31 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazylev
I fill my tank until water starts coming out of the over-flow tube. Maybe I shouldn't.
hi lev

here is the thread link

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443...ank-33300.html

the fill tube and over flow vent are low pressure systems...

filling until the vent burps water isn't an issue...

water fill PRESSURE is.

IF the filling pressure is too great or the main fill port is 'sealed' by the water hose....

problems can happen.

typically the fill tube or vent tube will pop loose from the tank.

so a simple approach is to just not fill the tank with the water open full bore...

IF there is significant filling pressure.

and don't seal the hose to the fill tube...

cheers
2air'
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Old 07-02-2007, 09:54 AM   #22
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Thanks 2air.

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Old 07-02-2007, 10:14 PM   #23
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Hi, crazylev. The actual cause was a kinked vent tube; No where for water pressure to go.


Hi, JK3500. Make sure you let your wife know it wasn't her fault. I would be happy that Airstream did that much for you, out of warranty, but being the kinked vent tube caused the floor dammage, it would have been nice if they fixed that too.
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Old 07-03-2007, 06:42 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS
Hi, JK3500. Make sure you let your wife know it wasn't her fault. I would be happy that Airstream did that much for you, out of warranty, but being the kinked vent tube caused the floor dammage, it would have been nice if they fixed that too.
Good point. She knows. Frankly, after discovering the frame damage, the water tank issue became a small problem and in the hectic-ness of the last week, the vent tube largely forgotten. I didn't even talk to Airstream about it. It is possible they might have fixed the floor, had we discussed it and if more time was available. As it was, I had only 4 days for Airstream to fix the frame and replace the tank and hardware as we needed to get back to Colorado. As it was, they barely got everything done in time for us to head back.

I do need to check the vent tube again, to ensure it is not still kinked. Thanks for the reminder.... jk
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Old 02-11-2009, 03:34 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JK3500 View Post
Just removed the fresh water tank on our 2005 22' International we purchased in February to replace due to overfilling (see http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443/overfilled-water-tank-33300.html). Tank came out easily, thanks to the advice from other forum members. However, once the tank and cover were removed we discovered a bent frame. There is no way this was caused by overfilling the tank, however we never would have noticed it had we not removed the tank as it was hidden by the tank cover.

The first two pictures are of the right side frame just forward of the wheels. You can see the bend in the lower section of the frame. Not seen is that the vertical section is bent inward, and there is about a 2" horizontal crack just behind the electrical lines (where you can see the rust spot). Picture #3 is the same section but from the outside. The crack is just above where the outer sub-floor starts (you can see a bit of rust there). Picture #4 is of the left side of the frame, from the inside, showing a similar but much smaller dent on the lower section of frame. No crack here and the vertical section is straight. The last picture is of the cracked floor caused by the overfilled water tank.

We are pretty disappointed in finding this on a 2 year old trailer that we've owned for less than 6 months. The funny thing is we never would have found it had we not had to remove the tank.

So.... How bad is it and what do we need to do to repair? Can we simply have the frame pounded straight and some reinforcing pieces of steel welded on? Can we leave it alone? (the crack makes me think no).

Please help. Appreciate any information you can provide. jk
i have a 22' peace of **** also. since i have owned it i have nothing but trouble with the frame. at one point it cracked so much that it was untowable! now after having it repaired when i travel i look for cracks every time i stop. i use my gps to look for welding shops. i am not happy with this tr and the factory says it must be my driving or something. it is my problem.
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Old 02-11-2009, 05:20 PM   #26
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What do you tow your trailer with? Do you use a weight distrabution hitch? How many miles are on the trailer? Im very curious. I also own a 22' CCD. Thanks in advance
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Old 02-11-2009, 07:47 PM   #27
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I had an early (2003) International 22

The rated carrying capacity was almost zilch on mine. They later added, as I remember, 400# to the carrying capacity. I don't know whether they changed the trailer or simply juggled the numbers.

The frame on those trailers was way too weak. I had to have the fix welded on my frame aft of the wheels because the weight of the rear galley was bending the frame. When I realized just how poor that trailer was, I traded for a 25' Classic (good)and later for my current 28 Classic (great).

Those International 22 trailers were Airstream's toe in the water for the new style laminated cabinets. I don't think they realized just how heavy the cabinetry would turn out or ever really checked after they were built.

By the way, I used a weight distribution hitch with 550# bars.

Airstream's so called engineering is a joke. They built the first 34 slideout and never upgraded axles and tires until the poor buyer finally made it back to the factory after a trip from hell.
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Old 02-12-2009, 10:58 AM   #28
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I have had so many frame problems with my 2003 22' int that i can't list them all. right now it has been welded and patched and i still don't have any confidance that i can travel with it. it is a serious design defect and the factory has not come to grips with it.
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Old 09-07-2009, 12:09 PM   #29
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Interesting, this thread from 2 years ago... We had a '02 International. Had problems with the laminate popping off EVERYTHING and had the service bulletin advising us to get some frame work done to strengthen it. That was a clusterbuck if I ever saw one... but anyway, we always thought the design of the '02 International was really nice had they only took care of the QC issues. It was like a very cool picture but the reality of it left alot to be desired.

I can't count how many emails we had back & forth between A/S and the then Airstream website/forums (that have since disappeared). We ended up trading for an '05 30' Classic which had significantly fewer QC issues (thank god)... The '02 International, frankly, scared me because of the problem/issues it had.
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Old 09-20-2009, 06:49 PM   #30
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I Know this is over now in your mind, but my guess is this trailer was tied down on a tow vehicle. They over tightened it and when it bounced on rough road it did it in.
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Old 09-22-2009, 10:40 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by celsian View Post
I Know this is over now in your mind, but my guess is this trailer was tied down on a tow vehicle. They over tightened it and when it bounced on rough road it did it in.
You are correct. The rest of the saga can be found here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f463...ars-45839.html

The downside is when making the first repair the Airstream factory assured me my towing setup was appropriate. 1 year later....

I now run without WD bars. So far so good... jk
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Old 09-23-2009, 09:59 AM   #32
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running without WD bars sounds interesting. background... i have had a LOT of problems with frame cracks with my 2003 23' int. the factory has replaced my frame once, countless patches, welds and factory kits on the new frame with no help. still the frame is a weak point. but running without the bars may ease the strain on the trailer frame somewhat but i wonder if the total stability will be compormised. the front end of the tow vehiclel will not have the correct weight distribution.
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Old 09-23-2009, 11:18 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by DON GUBRUD View Post
...i wonder if the total stability will be compormised. the front end of the tow vehiclel will not have the correct weight distribution.
don

the o.p. for this thread is towing with a 1 TON truck (srw) and was using 1000 lb w/d bars for a ~550-600 lb tongue.

so running without spring bars will have virtually NO effect on w/d (the steering axle load) because of the payload capacity of his 1 TON truck...

and the relatively small tongue mass of the poorly-built-no-belly-pan-osbflooring-weak-framed 22 footers.

he may have issues WITHOUT sway control,

but there are hitches (or lighter w/d bars) that solve the sway problem WITHOUT added w/d stress to the frames...
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otoh YOUR experience with the 23 footer (i think u mean 22) being towed by a TINY asian truck is interesting...

and certainly REFUTES the silly notion that TOO MUCH TRUCK is the cause of these problems...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ure-48105.html

and NO w/d bars or zero tension with YOUR COMBO would clearly UNLOAD the steering axle of that 'yota...

which is NOT a good solution for your rig.
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the issue was and still IS that a/s is using marginal frames (IN-adequate)...

combined with LESS than ideal brittle shells and FEWER connections between the 2.

everyone is frantic about the corrosion issue,

when the REAL concern (ok make a list) should be clearly inadequate basic structure of many a/s models.

for more out of body experiences read here,

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ion-35237.html

and beware the cracks are real and may be growing...

and it's NOT the bike racks as many of the rear sag threads MISLEADINGLY suggest...

it's the stickers...

DO NOT PUT ANY STICKERS on the the bumper or rear window, it's too much stress for the semi mono coque design...

cheers
2air'
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Old 09-23-2009, 03:52 PM   #34
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Ha! Then the "caution, wide load" stickers on my rear may be the source of my crack?
Sorry, couldn't resist!

Throughly tongue in cheek...
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Old 09-23-2009, 04:20 PM   #35
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...Then the "caution, wide load" stickers on my rear may be the source of my crack?...
depends, was the sticker balanced first?

caution w i d e l o a d stickers on rear end cracks...hummm.

i see a thread coming and a hole new product line.

cheers
2air'
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Old 09-23-2009, 04:45 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman View Post
depends, was the sticker balanced first?

caution w i d e l o a d stickers on rear end cracks...hummm.

i see a thread coming and a hole new product line.

cheers
2air'
2air' nice to see you're back! I for one have missed your posts.

Annette
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Old 09-24-2009, 07:47 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman View Post
don

the o.p. for this thread is towing with a 1 TON truck (srw) and was using 1000 lb w/d bars for a ~550-600 lb tongue.

so running without spring bars will have virtually NO effect on w/d (the steering axle load) because of the payload capacity of his 1 TON truck...

and the relatively small tongue mass of the poorly-built-no-belly-pan-osbflooring-weak-framed 22 footers.

he may have issues WITHOUT sway control,

but there are hitches (or lighter w/d bars) that solve the sway problem WITHOUT added w/d stress to the frames...
______________________

otoh YOUR experience with the 23 footer (i think u mean 22) being towed by a TINY asian truck is interesting...

and certainly REFUTES the silly notion that TOO MUCH TRUCK is the cause of these problems...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ure-48105.html

and NO w/d bars or zero tension with YOUR COMBO would clearly UNLOAD the steering axle of that 'yota...

which is NOT a good solution for your rig.
______________________

the issue was and still IS that a/s is using marginal frames (IN-adequate)...

combined with LESS than ideal brittle shells and FEWER connections between the 2.

everyone is frantic about the corrosion issue,

when the REAL concern (ok make a list) should be clearly inadequate basic structure of many a/s models.

for more out of body experiences read here,

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ion-35237.html

and beware the cracks are real and may be growing...

and it's NOT the bike racks as many of the rear sag threads MISLEADINGLY suggest...

it's the stickers...

DO NOT PUT ANY STICKERS on the the bumper or rear window, it's too much stress for the semi mono coque design...

cheers
2air'
Thanks for clarifying 2air. Yes, I am towing with a 1 ton, which barely notices the trailer tailing behind, especially as I tow below 65 mph always. That probably would not be the case with a 1/2 ton or lighter TV.

Your points are right on the money. The frame is definitely the weak point, on my trailer at least (likewise with Don).

I have also removed all stickers from the rear of the trailer...

Good to have you back on the forums. Your insight, honesty and wit has been missed. jk
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Old 09-24-2009, 08:45 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman View Post
i see a thread coming and a hole new product line.
cheers
2air'
"hole" new product line, eh...?

...stamped, pressed or... uh... extruded? :
.
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