Axle plate cracked, Outriggers sagging

[Karel_c]

Hi all !

I tried to research on the forum using google, and didn't find the answer I was looking for, even after many hours of reading. It's a bit of a rabbit hole when you start....

So here's my question(s):

What's the best way to fix this kind of damage ?

There's a crack that formed on the plate that's welded near the axles (both sides), which makes the outriggers sag, and the floor was warped as a result. A welder is coming to fix the spots that need repair, and I want to be sure it's done the right way. Why is there a gap on top of the outriggers ? Can it be welded together to make it stronger ? Some outriggers seem to have a gap, and others don't...I just don't get it. If someone is a bit more familiar with the outriggers, please enlighten me . Thanks!

[rugjenkins]

Look up rear end separation repair that will point you to what your looking for. Raise the sagging part. Weld the cracks and add a stiffing plate. I think some of my outriggers were like that I welded them all. The 70s frames are thin and are known/prone to issues. I also boxed in my frame rails for added strength. This is not necessarily needed.

[Karel_c]

Thanks for your response Matt. And yes, it's separated :




So you say it doesn't matter if the outriggers are welded at the top ?
And by stiffening plate you mean just weld a plate over the cracked area so it won't crack again ?

Thanks

[rugjenkins]

I would weld the outriggers on the top. There is a stiffing plate you can order from inland rv, I believe. 3/16 flat stock would do the same. Others can chime in on the repair. Or read the threads dealing with it. Straighten the frame( raise the dropped or sagging rear end, then weld crack and add a 3/16 flat metal the same width of the frame (5 inches wide) at least a foot forward the axles and at least 2 ft or more past the rear axle. That's how I would fix it. Others may have other solutions too [emoji1]

[Lumatic]

The underlying problem may be bad axles, have you checked them out? If they are original they probably are in need of replacement,

[Wabbiteer]

Ah yes - I found dipping floor first... then detailed inspection revealed it was amplified by all the usual complications:

No factory top edge welds, rust cake wedge behind axle plate, poor prior replacement of a solid outrigger, softening plywood at rusted/busted shell tie down bolts to name a few visible causes; then add out of balance running gear back somewhen hammering on everything that actually set the new metal memory...

So - I notched my new outriggers by about 1/2-inch to achieve leveling, merrily tack welded them to ladder frame AND bowed axle plate, stitched in a few more new tack welds to top of axle plates, cleaned as much rust cake as possible from behind the lightening holes on the axle plates and saturated the void with much POR15, and kept going... Then a few years later I did a shell-off and found I'd done good.

PLEASE NOTE: Outriggers as factory provided are a light duty support meaning they are a softer iron and not heavily welded in place - this translates to designed as impact absorbers meant to break-away when the banana wraps meet with a stump, culvert verge or guardrail etc.. Much easier to replace mangled outrigger(s) than torn/cracked shell c-channels & shattered flooring & ladder frames segments. Don't be going overboard with heavy-duty industrial welds & stronger steel when replacing them...

Also: the compressed fiberglass insulation between frame rails and floor can cause high outriggers also if Joe Welder simply slaps the mild iron angles up and tacks them in place, as will if they don't get a hydraulic jack out and lift the sagged flooring back level will cause low outriggers... another joy to correct when laying out new flooring. If we're just replacing outriggers with OEM floor in place that 1/8 to 3/16" thickness should be accounted for, outriggers level with frame and some shim installed to match the undisturbed insulation/floor at adjoining outriggers/spars (or) floor lifted to accept square & plumb new metal...

[Karel_c]

Thank you for your replies.
I've had the frame fixed by a welder, we jacked the outriggers were needed and it closed the gaps which were then welded back. The frame is now mostly POR-15'ed and I started putting the new subfloor in the back section.
Of course the 45 years old axle are shot and I plan on replacing them as soon as possible.

Next I'll have to figure a way to fix the rear end separation better than it was done in the first place.