Applying POR-15

[1963tradewin]

I am wondering if I should sand blast the frame before applying por 15 or just paint over the rust. The reason I ask is I have herd sand blasting takes away good metal. Also how many coats do I need to do it correctly, and how many quarts will I need to do the Tradewind? Thanks for the help!

[65Safari65]

No need to sandblast- just remove any flaking rust. Sandblasting your frame would make the POR ("Paint Over Rust") not adhere as well. I did most of my Safari's frame with one quart- one coat. Two should probably take care of yours with extra. Get good gloves- that stuff stains your skin and tends to splatter.


Brad

[Zeppelinium]

Always do two coats, at least.

Definitely get and use gloves.

I recommend that you get one quart of black and one of gray. When it dries, and if you use only black, it is devilishly difficult to see the difference between the first coat and the new wet coat.

Zep

[Happycampers]

Sandblasting won't eat up the good metal if it is done right, use the gun at an angle and keep it moving. I blasted my trailer and it was easier and looked better than where I just painted over rust after using a wire brush.

Marvin

[DanielB]

Don't let it get on your skin. They say it isn't toxic, but once it gets on you, it won't come off. I got it all over my hands and had to sandpaper my hands to get most of it off.

[Kevin245]

Zepp is spot on and you definitely don't want to get this stuff on you as it is very hard to get off.

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Good luck,

Kevin

[Wabbiteer]

If you do sand blast consider the aggregate choice carefully - you don't need aggressive coal-slag glass or other fast media and collecting & screening & reusing what you do shoot makes it less likely to remove good metal. When you do get bare bright metal the metal prep compounds from POR actually put a coat of rust on so the paint 'bites' better. As cheap as I am I tried using a grill cleaner lye to both clean and prep the bare metal I uncovered around the rusted areas, looked to be a waste of money anyway. My tip is use the store-bought metal prep.

My '73 frame had a oily-creosote based paint on it from the factory - where it hadn't already rusted the POR did not want to adhere very well, even after using the 2 and 3-inch abrasive biscuits with air tools there was still a film remaining that solvent washing just pushed around. I ended up over-painting the fresh and clean looking painted iron inside the frame rails with Derusto spray paint. I used semi-gloss black POR and found it okay to recoat, I also thinned it with their solvent which stretched it and hopefully helped the POR get underneath the original factory paint...

[Aerowood]

I used one of the cheap Harbor Freight touch-up spray guns and then just through it away after I was done

[Melody Ranch]

I have moved over to "Chassis Saver" for my rust treatment and prevention. Same stuff as POR at half the price. I use the silver and really like the high aluminum content (like POR silver)....so far I have seen no deterioration of the silver on the exposed areas.

P.S. I have found that "Rust-O-leum" is worthless. Rust bleeds thru everywhere within months.

[Zeppelinium]

Originally Posted by Aerowood

I used one of the cheap Harbor Freight touch-up spray guns and then just throw it away after I was done

I use a brush--POR 15 is incredibly self-leveling. Looks like it was sprayed on.

However, getting full coverage back in some of the frame joints is difficult with a brush--a spray might do better.

Zep

[DougZ]

Remember when sandblasting you MUST use a good respirator. Don't put on one of those Harbor Freight dust masks. Silica will eat your lungs up! Be careful!

[Star-Man]

The POR-15 instructions state that a sandblasted surface provides good adherence. POR-15 just needs something to "bite" into. Sandblasting leaves a good, even texture.

I sandblasted my frame and applied 2 coats of POR-15 with very satisfactory results.