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Old 07-09-2021, 10:08 AM   #1
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1972 25' Tradewind
fort lauderdale , Florida
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 184
Another elevator bolt thread

I'm ready to install my new flooring (pvc foam board made by Coosa) and I plan on using elevator bolts.
I know the elevator bolt subject has been discussed in nauseam and I've read dozens of threads but need a little more info.

The one thing I haven't seen in other threads is, are you able to get the new elevator bolt in the original frame hole by marking from underneath or some other way?
Also, I was planning on working from front to back when installing the flooring. Is that the best way to go?



thank you
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Old 07-09-2021, 10:32 AM   #2
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1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
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I donít think it matters if you work starting at either end. Either way youíll end up with a narrower sheet at the end. But splitting the crossmembers is important to ward against springiness. As far as hitting the same bolt holes, if you can mark the holes, why canít you drill from the bottom up? They make angle attachments for your drill, if needed. Where your flooring butt joint hits between a crossmember, you can hit add a plywood strip at the splice underneath to add some rigidity. Good luck
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Old 07-10-2021, 06:52 AM   #3
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1962 22' Safari
Kingman , Arizona
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Hi I am in the process of redoing my 62 safari and I removed all the old flooring and set the old plywood sheet on top of the new and traced the outside contour and marked all the holes. Red = elevator bolts Blue = gas lines etc. l used a center punch to accurately mark the hole centers. Used a Forcener bit to inset the Elevator bolts.
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Old 07-11-2021, 12:19 PM   #4
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1976 Argosy 24
1961 28' Ambassador
1968 26' Overlander
Lakewood , Colorado
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Assuming doing complete floor, I do the front and rear pieces first, secured with just a few bolts. Then fill in the inside pieces, many trailers all the joints conveniently fall on cross-members. '61 Ambassador had 1 odd sheet that required a custom cut of not 48 or 24 inches. Once I had a sheet not fit by about 1/16" and used a port-power to spread it open. Mark the centers of your cross-members and sheets to keep all lined up. When you are happy, drill holes from below, I use a 1/4" jobber length (24") bit. Hard to find but elevator bolt heads with fangs are awesome. Working alone and bolts spinning, I like nyloc nuts and fender washers, drill a 1/8" hole in the edge of the head and stick something in it (nail, pick etc.). Seems I always use more fasteners of every kind than Airstream did. I have done all my floors shell on (61, 68, 72, 76 x2).
Good luck, Mark D
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Old 07-13-2021, 10:24 AM   #5
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1972 25' Tradewind
fort lauderdale , Florida
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Thank you Bubba L, Safari 60 and Mark for all the info.


I see on VTS they have 2" or 1.5" length bolts . I know I need 2" bolts on the cross members that are lower and have the extra piece of wood underneath.
I don't see a reason to buy both lengths, just use 2" everywhere?
I found fanged elev 1/4 20 bolts on Mcmaster carr. (10) for 8.37 compared to VTS (50) for 15.99

I don' think i need to use a forcener bit. I tested a bolt on a scrap piece of the pvc decking, and it pulled down flush no problem.
One more question. On the side alum channels on the outriggers, I think all the airstreams had the 3/16" plates of steel acting as "hold downs/washers". Is there any reason these could not be replaced with a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum...to keep with similar metals.(if that makes sense) I've attached a pic (not mine) as to what I'm referring. I'ts a pic of the end c channels, not the sides.
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Old 07-15-2021, 09:45 AM   #6
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1987 34' Limited
Hantsport , NS
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"One more question. On the side alum channels on the outriggers, I think all the airstreams had the 3/16" plates of steel acting as "hold downs/washers". Is there any reason these could not be replaced with a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum...to keep with similar metals.(if that makes sense) I've attached a pic (not mine) as to what I'm referring. I'ts a pic of the end c channels, not the sides".

Also interested in the answer to this one if there are thoughts. Perhaps too soft, but with decent stainless washers as well, and a sealant between the stainless and aluminum?
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Old 07-15-2021, 09:58 AM   #7
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If you haven't ordered your bolts yet I'd suggest looking at the ones with teeth on the plate to reduce the chance they'll spin while installing.

https://www.google.com/search?q=elev...hrome&ie=UTF-8
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Old 07-16-2021, 06:52 AM   #8
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thanks 57vintage,


I'm definitely leaning that way
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Old 08-05-2021, 08:45 AM   #9
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Key West , Florida
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Hi all,
I too am at this stage in our renovation of our 1971, 31' Sovereign.
My question is whether Stainless steel elevator bolts are really necessary?
thanks in advance!
Shawn
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