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07-09-2021, 11:08 AM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member 
1972 25' Tradewind
fort lauderdale
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 206
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Another elevator bolt thread
I'm ready to install my new flooring (pvc foam board made by Coosa) and I plan on using elevator bolts.
I know the elevator bolt subject has been discussed in nauseam and I've read dozens of threads but need a little more info.
The one thing I haven't seen in other threads is, are you able to get the new elevator bolt in the original frame hole by marking from underneath or some other way?
Also, I was planning on working from front to back when installing the flooring. Is that the best way to go?
thank you
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07-09-2021, 11:32 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master 

1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg
, Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 3,114
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I don’t think it matters if you work starting at either end. Either way you’ll end up with a narrower sheet at the end. But splitting the crossmembers is important to ward against springiness. As far as hitting the same bolt holes, if you can mark the holes, why can’t you drill from the bottom up? They make angle attachments for your drill, if needed. Where your flooring butt joint hits between a crossmember, you can hit add a plywood strip at the splice underneath to add some rigidity. Good luck
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07-10-2021, 07:52 AM
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#3
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1 Rivet Member 
1962 22' Safari
Kingman
, Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 17
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Hi I am in the process of redoing my 62 safari and I removed all the old flooring and set the old plywood sheet on top of the new and traced the outside contour and marked all the holes. Red = elevator bolts Blue = gas lines etc. l used a center punch to accurately mark the hole centers. Used a Forcener bit to inset the Elevator bolts.
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07-11-2021, 01:19 PM
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#4
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4 Rivet Member 
1976 Argosy 24
1961 28' Ambassador
1968 26' Overlander
Lakewood
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 481
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Assuming doing complete floor, I do the front and rear pieces first, secured with just a few bolts. Then fill in the inside pieces, many trailers all the joints conveniently fall on cross-members. '61 Ambassador had 1 odd sheet that required a custom cut of not 48 or 24 inches. Once I had a sheet not fit by about 1/16" and used a port-power to spread it open. Mark the centers of your cross-members and sheets to keep all lined up. When you are happy, drill holes from below, I use a 1/4" jobber length (24") bit. Hard to find but elevator bolt heads with fangs are awesome. Working alone and bolts spinning, I like nyloc nuts and fender washers, drill a 1/8" hole in the edge of the head and stick something in it (nail, pick etc.). Seems I always use more fasteners of every kind than Airstream did. I have done all my floors shell on (61, 68, 72, 76 x2).
Good luck, Mark D
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07-13-2021, 11:24 AM
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#5
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3 Rivet Member 
1972 25' Tradewind
fort lauderdale
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 206
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Thank you Bubba L, Safari 60 and Mark for all the info.
I see on VTS they have 2" or 1.5" length bolts . I know I need 2" bolts on the cross members that are lower and have the extra piece of wood underneath.
I don't see a reason to buy both lengths, just use 2" everywhere?
I found fanged elev 1/4 20 bolts on Mcmaster carr. (10) for 8.37 compared to VTS (50) for 15.99
I don' think i need to use a forcener bit. I tested a bolt on a scrap piece of the pvc decking, and it pulled down flush no problem.
One more question. On the side alum channels on the outriggers, I think all the airstreams had the 3/16" plates of steel acting as "hold downs/washers". Is there any reason these could not be replaced with a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum...to keep with similar metals.(if that makes sense) I've attached a pic (not mine) as to what I'm referring. I'ts a pic of the end c channels, not the sides.
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07-15-2021, 10:45 AM
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#6
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3 Rivet Member 
1987 34' Limited
Hantsport
, NS
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 169
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"One more question. On the side alum channels on the outriggers, I think all the airstreams had the 3/16" plates of steel acting as "hold downs/washers". Is there any reason these could not be replaced with a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum...to keep with similar metals.(if that makes sense) I've attached a pic (not mine) as to what I'm referring. I'ts a pic of the end c channels, not the sides".
Also interested in the answer to this one if there are thoughts. Perhaps too soft, but with decent stainless washers as well, and a sealant between the stainless and aluminum?
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07-15-2021, 10:58 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master 
1958 26' Overlander
Battle Ground
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 873
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If you haven't ordered your bolts yet I'd suggest looking at the ones with teeth on the plate to reduce the chance they'll spin while installing.
https://www.google.com/search?q=elev...hrome&ie=UTF-8
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07-16-2021, 07:52 AM
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#8
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3 Rivet Member 
1972 25' Tradewind
fort lauderdale
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 206
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thanks 57vintage,
I'm definitely leaning that way
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08-05-2021, 09:45 AM
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#9
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New Member
Key West
, Florida
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 4
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Hi all,
I too am at this stage in our renovation of our 1971, 31' Sovereign.
My question is whether Stainless steel elevator bolts are really necessary?
thanks in advance!
Shawn
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01-04-2022, 03:33 PM
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#10
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3 Rivet Member 
1972 25' Tradewind
fort lauderdale
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 206
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I Have my elevator bolts and finally will get to begin my floor install this weekend. I'm contemplating using some of the 10 X 1 1/2 Wafer Head Screw 10112WH offered at out of doors mart, if needed.
My question, when I removed my floor, the elevator bolts had a nut and then were bent over (old school form of a lock nut). I was curious, should I add a washer with the new install of the elevator bolt? use lock tite?
thank you
Eric
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01-04-2022, 04:04 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master 

1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg
, Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 3,114
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Eric, I think anything that disallows the nut to vibrate loose will work. I just finished installing the subfloor and elevator bolts on a 63 Bambi. I used the VTS elevator bolts, Forstner bits, and locknuts. When I flip the chassis for the insulation and belly pan, I will place a dab of polyurethane on the elevator bolt thread to keep the nut in place. I just feel more at ease making sure the nuts don’t back off. Good luck
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01-05-2022, 04:33 AM
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#12
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3 Rivet Member 
1987 34' Limited
Hantsport
, NS
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 169
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I used 3/8" stainless bolts with nylock nuts, then another double nut on top for the outriggers/c-channel, then for the subfloor/c-channel that is simply bolted through but not at an outrigger I used 1/4" stainless bolts. The shell was off so I could manage the wrench and the socket on the perimeter myself. I didn't see a use for elevator bolts here unless you're working alone and the shell is on. I'll be doubling up on the bolts through the outriggers as in 2 per, as opposed to the factory 1 per. For outriggers we had to replace all but 1, and used the old holes in the channel as a guide.
For the floor I used 1/4" elevator bolts instead of screws to penetrate from the floor down through the cross members. I did my drilling from under the trailer, and was able to use many of the old holes; however, the old screw holes were in many cases too close to the edge of the 90 degree bend to drill straight so new holes here. I worked on this alone so lots of up and down to ensure that I didn't overtighten into the Coosa. If you use stainless go slow and use neverseize, or the nuts will gall when being turned on. On the elevator bolts I used stainless washers, nylock nuts against the cross member, then double nutted with a regular stainless nut. I skimmed the top of the elevator bolt depression with bondo, then coated the floor with fiberglass resin.
A bit of extra work but should be durable.
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01-05-2022, 09:14 AM
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#13
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3 Rivet Member 
1972 25' Tradewind
fort lauderdale
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 206
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Thanks Bubba L
Looks Great Daytonacoupe
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01-05-2022, 10:25 AM
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#14
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Rivet Master 
1967 17' Caravel
Oak Creek
, Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,631
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I used nyloc nuts & elevator bolts on stringers & outriggers & SHCS to bolt C-channel to outriggers then went back thru and jacked the threads up with a file.
the nuts won't be coming off.
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