alternative shell to subfloor to frame interface?

[benWa]

Hello all,

I'm starting to re-work a 63 globe trotter that has been severely neglected. Amongst everything else, I need to replace the sub floor and have started the prep. I am working under the assumption that I'll be leaving the shell and belly pan on. In the near future the trailer will be used as a live in job trailer on the northern Oregon (wet, windy and wet) after that I hope to use it as intended. i have started addressing known problem areas for leakage (seams, penetrations, and windows) But have little faith that my efforts will win out over nature. I'd like to allow some level of internal weeping in the walls as a concession. I am considering placing steel shim plates between the frame and alum. channel, these shims would be welded to the frame and screwed to the shell channel(and drill additional weep hole though the bottom Channel towards the outer edge). Next I'd put the interior skin back on and install a premium grade plywood deck holding the decking back from the shell by, say a 1/4". then using an alum. L profile ,screw to the sub floor and rivet or screw though the L into the interior skin and perimeter C channel, to tie it all together. Are there any fatal flaws I might be overlooking?

Note that I'll be stabilizing the frame as I go ( neutralize rust, reinforce problem welds, re-painting) and as for floor insulation I'd like to go with a rigid insulation so as not top have to worry about sag or trapping/wicking moisture as much.

If this has been covered elsewhere, I didn't know were to look.

[vinstream]

I understand what you are trying to do.... Hell its is kind of how I first started to think about rot problems....(lead me to the first all aluminum chassis system) But I will add my 2c...I would uses rivets instead of screws on your welded on tie downs. I believe, Screws will come undone in these areas. The other week area I see, is the "L" should realy be a "T" connecting the floor frame and skin to one piece, then drill your weep hole in the "T" laded on its side. Keep in mind you are trying to connect three different materals... steel, aluminum, and wood... and should I add in water, air, dirt... All dont mix that great!?!?

Vin...

[benWa]

Vin,

I'm now considering running my 5/8 steel or S/S bar stock as continuous as possible. the connection to the frame would be a S/S machine screw down though the 5/8 bar and frame (either though bolted and tack welded or drilled tapped and tack welded to prevent backing out) Also the inboard side of the bar to frame connection would be welded. connection from the shell to the 5/8 bar would be self taping screws that have been spot welded on the underside once installed.

Your suggestion of a T profile is good but I'm unsure if it is meant to have it's back to the interior or exterior. What about a top down orientation so one side could carry a smaller shim and the shell and the opposite side could catch the sub floor sheeting? Once the connection between the shell c-chan, bottom of T and frame is made, the interior skin could be re-applied if space is left between the long leg and shell frame. then a binding series of rivets though the long legg of the T, interior skin, and shell frame and or C-chan could be installed. Or is this what you were talking about?

I see what looks to be a link but it is not functioning, Love to see your system. ....(lead me to the first all aluminum chassis system)