Visit our Popular Forums

leedr · 05-30-2009, 02:16 PM

since we are 101. lets disscuss rivit removal. What size rivits for what rivits where? dose one just drill the top off so the skin comes off. Whats this cleo stuff I assume its an alingment procedure. How about the rounded top ones, center punch or what. Whats the drill bit made of steel, carbon, ect. top to bottom or bottom to top. What size drill bits (one fit all). send a link to the rivit master for detailed explicit how to....thank you ahead off time humblely yours 63 safari...

pbearsailor · 05-30-2009, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rslaymaker

So far I have the front of the axle portion of the bellypan unriveted. Do I continue taking the rivets out and the pull the belly pan out from the rear of the camper? I looks like one continuous sheet.

I hope to get some work done today and tomorrow on it.

I'd probably go ahead and get the belly pan off.

Maybe ought to think about some support for your shell. It looks like you've removed all the plywood from under the C channel and that's fine. But the only thing holding the shell up when you get the plywood removed will be the steel plates center front and rear (probably rear, but not on my '57). It'd be a good idea to get some pieces of 3/4" plywood slid under the C channel where you have the outriggers.

You're likely at that stage where you need to decide how far into it you need to go: repair just that area, do the whole floor and repair and paint the frame, and whether to do it shell on or shell off.

cheers,
steve

rslaymaker · 05-30-2009, 08:03 PM

Will welding happen from the top or bottom? So if I put the plywood down, will I the welder be able to complete their work? Thanks for the tip... I don't what the top part to not be attached to anything. No work done today... Hoping to have a productive day tomorrow with the Airstream.

pbearsailor · 05-30-2009, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rslaymaker

Will welding happen from the top or bottom? So if I put the plywood down, will I the welder be able to complete their work? Thanks for the tip... I don't what the top part to not be attached to anything. No work done today... Hoping to have a productive day tomorrow with the Airstream.

You'd want to leave it open for welding. Just some small strips of plywood on the outriggers is all you need for support. I left a strip of original floor in mine and it's still like that as I'm getting ready to go to the welder.

See what Shari, InsideOut, did here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/show...&postcount=113

cheers,
steve

rslaymaker · 05-31-2009, 07:05 AM

Steve, Thanks again... In Shari's picture the under belly is not removed, correct? I hope I that is right... Because I have started to remove the entire sheet that attaches to the frame from beneath the trailer. I thought that was the under belly.

If I am correct... I don't think I got an answer on this question. I remove all the rivets from the under belly... and since it runs between the frame and the axle. I will need to pull the entire sheet from the rear of the trailer. Is that a correct assumption?

Thanks again.

pbearsailor · 05-31-2009, 08:58 AM

Yes, they left theirs on. Hard to weld with it on, though.

Sounds like the plan on yours, off in one piece. If you can think ahead far enough, you can maybe cut it into a couple of sections. Mine had a seam right down the longitudinal center and I cut it in half by the axle for 4 pieces. I did this as I knew I'd be adding tanks fore and aft of the axle, so I'd be modding the pan there anyway.

cheers,
steve

rslaymaker · 05-31-2009, 09:39 AM

You are right... Mine does have a seam down the middle. The suggestion of cutting the long pieces by the axle will make it significantly easier to proceed. If that worked for you I will go that route... Thanks so much, for now back to the camper to do some cutting.

rslaymaker · 06-07-2009, 08:47 AM

At this point, waiting on welders and their estimates. The $800 from one is out of my price range, hoping something better comes along. Maybe a different approach that could reduce the price. The situation does not look good.

rslaymaker · 06-12-2009, 04:04 PM

Welders welding... I might be back in business. I am hoping for a productive weekend. Hope you don't mind, I will be back to asking questions... Hope everyone is ready.

Inland RV Center, In · 06-12-2009, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rslaymaker

Steve, Thanks again... In Shari's picture the under belly is not removed, correct? I hope I that is right... Because I have started to remove the entire sheet that attaches to the frame from beneath the trailer. I thought that was the under belly.

If I am correct... I don't think I got an answer on this question. I remove all the rivets from the under belly... and since it runs between the frame and the axle. I will need to pull the entire sheet from the rear of the trailer. Is that a correct assumption?

Thanks again.

Before you start replacing floor sections, you should address the cause of the water leaks, and make sure they are corrected. If not, then the new floor will also become damaged.

The entrance door could be warped as well as needing a new gasket. All the window gaskets, if not replaced in the past, will be bad. Check the ceiling vent cover gaskets as well as the sewer vent pipe area's on the roof. Access compartment door gaskets are also important.

The last possibilties for water leaks are the AC, and missing rivets, and of course damaged exterior metal.

Exterior sealer used are Vulkem for heavy seams and Par-bond for small seams. Missing rivets are replaced with Olympic rivets.

There are upgrades for all the gaskets that your trailer may need. Using the old style gaskets, is not recommended.

The broken chassis can be caused by unbalanced running gear and/or bad suspension, along with bad shocks.

It's wise to ask many questions before you start to tackle repairs so that you don't head off in the wrong direction, with your time as well as money.

Andy

rslaymaker · 06-12-2009, 10:04 PM

Thanks Andy, yes the leaks have been identified and corrected. The camper was at the Airstream factory, where they took care of correcting several of those things you mentioned. My problem was after I began looking at replacing the floor I discovered the main rail was cracked. The welders determined that the break was due to the pressure from the step. Over time that has weakened the piece of metal until it finally broke.

Now my problem is taking out the plywood flooring, which I have not been able to figure out completely. It seems that they are not easily removed, between the rusted bolts and the weight. I hope to get some suggestions on the procedure to remove the floor boards, that is what I will be tackling tomorrow.

Thanks again, this is such a great discussion forum. What a wealth of knowledge and willingness to share.

-Robert

Inland RV Center, In · 06-13-2009, 02:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rslaymaker

Thanks Andy, yes the leaks have been identified and corrected. The camper was at the Airstream factory, where they took care of correcting several of those things you mentioned. My problem was after I began looking at replacing the floor I discovered the main rail was cracked. The welders determined that the break was due to the pressure from the step. Over time that has weakened the piece of metal until it finally broke.

Now my problem is taking out the plywood flooring, which I have not been able to figure out completely. It seems that they are not easily removed, between the rusted bolts and the weight. I hope to get some suggestions on the procedure to remove the floor boards, that is what I will be tackling tomorrow.

Thanks again, this is such a great discussion forum. What a wealth of knowledge and willingness to share.

-Robert

As much as it becomes difficult to say, the factory sometimes misses things they should have caught, such as your frame.

What exact gasket did they install on thr back of the windows?

Andy

pbearsailor · 06-13-2009, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rslaymaker

Now my problem is taking out the plywood flooring, which I have not been able to figure out completely. It seems that they are not easily removed, between the rusted bolts and the weight. I hope to get some suggestions on the procedure to remove the floor boards, that is what I will be tackling tomorrow.

Robert, the way I took my subfloor up was to set the depth of my Skill saw just a touch less than the plywood thickness and made a cut down the center and all the way around the perimeter, right next to the C channel. That leaves a 4" or so wide strip remaining under the C channel to support the shell. I took a 1" hole saw with the pilot bit removed and drilled over the top of the elevator bolts down to the crossmembers. After that, the pieces of flooring lift right out. Vise grips can be used to snap the old elevator bolts in two to remove them.

cheers,
steve

rslaymaker · 06-13-2009, 12:34 PM

Ok, that makes sense, so only an outline of the wood remains (the wood supporting the campers skeleton. I am guessing you did not have the ability to use the old woods as a template for the new floor. Right? So, lets say I get that done, did you then remove sections of the remaining wood and insert the new flooring? Did you use the same configuration for your floor? That is the 4x8 plywood has the 4 foot side running the length of the trailer. If so, how did you get the plywood in place? As I see the wood is wider and won't fit, not sure if it will bend into place.

Thanks again for all your help.

utee94 · 06-13-2009, 12:52 PM

The shell will flex out and in, and can accommodate the wood as it slides under the channel.

I did this, and talked about it in my blog linked below in my signature, some time in late December 2008 or early January, if you care to look.

It's not particularly easy, but it can be done.

Inland RV Center, In · 06-13-2009, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rslaymaker

Ok, that makes sense, so only an outline of the wood remains (the wood supporting the campers skeleton. I am guessing you did not have the ability to use the old woods as a template for the new floor. Right? So, lets say I get that done, did you then remove sections of the remaining wood and insert the new flooring? Did you use the same configuration for your floor? That is the 4x8 plywood has the 4 foot side running the length of the trailer. If so, how did you get the plywood in place? As I see the wood is wider and won't fit, not sure if it will bend into place.

Thanks again for all your help.

The floor is a very important part of the shell.

To properly replace it, the shell should be removed.

To leave just the wood underneath the floor channel, and then splicing in the plywood sheets, severly weakens the monocoque construction.

Remember, the shell supports the frame.

When the wood is spliced, a noted above, in time you will find the outriggers have bent downwards.

That is caused by the lack of proper weight redistribution, because the floor does nothing more than support the interior, since it has ben disconnected from the shell.

Time will show the problem when you see the top of the galley and tables or any flat surface becomes tilted downward where it's connected to the shell, by and inch or more.

Simply stated. replacing the floor like that, totally destroys the construction principals.

Andy

pbearsailor · 06-13-2009, 03:06 PM

I don't think anybody here is talking about leaving the old wood under the C Channel, Andy. You do not have to remove the shell to replace the floor. It can be done with the shell on--many have done so.

cheers,
steve

rslaymaker · 06-13-2009, 03:21 PM

Steve,

Just double checking, I am attempting to insert my first floor board in the front of the camper. The shell of the camper is now below the board and I will need to raise it to get the shell back on the wood. How do you do this? Right now I have it close but it seems it is going to take some leverage to get things into place.

Thanks,

Robert

DavidsonOverlander · 06-13-2009, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rslaymaker

Steve,
Just double checking, I am attempting to insert my first floor board in the front of the camper. The shell of the camper is now below the board and I will need to raise it to get the shell back on the wood. How do you do this? Right now I have it close but it seems it is going to take some leverage to get things into place.
Thanks,
Robert

I've just been doing the same thing, but starting at the rear of the trailer. I raised the shell with a hydraulic jack on each side. Go easy, it won't take much to raise it. I put a piece of wood between the jack and the C-channel to spread out the force.

Note that the jacks are only lifting the end of the shell slightly, most of the weight of the shell is still being supported by the strip of flooring left between the C-channel and the ends of the outriggers.

pbearsailor · 06-13-2009, 04:53 PM

Wow, you're really moving along. Did you paint your frame too?

Agree with DavidsonOverlander. Might be able to jack up a little under a window frame where you've got horizontal stringers using a wood block. Good idea also to have some strips of plywood scrap to wedge under the C channel above the outriggers where you can and pull those strips out as you ease in the new flooring.

cheers,
steve