75 Argosy overlander

[Argosy2]

Ive been planning a restoration of a 75 argosy for many years. Finally getting a start on it. I've got a few ideas that would appreciate some input from those with more airstream knowledge then myself. I'm building an overland style trailer. I'm starting with a 75 Argosy. I believe its a 22 ft. The shell is 18ft 3 in. Presently the shell has been off for about 3 years now. New axels and a coat ofPOR 15.I've spent a couple of years collecting stuff. for the build. I have a doner fifth wheel and I was able to pick up a wrecked 2014 bambi sport for most of the interior and assorted bits.
One question is how much variation has there been in the structure of these trailers. The floor of my Argosy was too badly rotted to get a template for the shell outline on the new floor.I was wondering if there was a chance the wall footprint of the Bambi would be the same. The body width seems to be same. I was thinking of using some of the windows and possibly the door if .
Ive decided to go with 45 degree drop axels with a 2inch lift block. I had the work done at a local trailer shop and I fear there understanding of airstreams isn't up to par. When I picked it up they had omitted the shocks and didn't think it necessary.More discussion on that later I think.
I realize that this will effect the centre of the gravity of the trailer. This leads to my next question. As I deconstructed it i was surprised at the lack of integrity of the belly pan.It was paper thin with most of the rivets corroded through. In my understanding of the monoclyer design it seems the frame and belly skin is very light compared to the strength of the shell .My plan is to do the belly pan in 1/8 checker plate. I've also incorporated a 7 1/2 in inch drop between the frame rails.This is difficult to describe. I'll include pictures as soon as i figure out how. The redesign is adds a ridged camber structure to stiffen up the frame. I've had the sheets bent up. They will be bolted or riveted to the frame rail and connected to frame cross members by structural members where the sheets join. There will be a little creative cutting and bending to tie the belly pan into to outriggers.I'll have the sheets welded at the seam as well.This will give me 11 inches of space under the floor for storage. It is my plan to eliminate most of the upper cabinets. It will allow me mount the tanks over the axels below the bottom of the frame lowering the centre of gravity.
Another question has anyone gone with a checker plate floor instead of plywood.How much structural integrity is attributed to the plywood sheeting spanning the floor. I assume the outriggers must gain some of there strength from the cantilever of the plywood . It is my plan to have hatches in the centre walkway to access the belly.
This is all for now. I've got the pieces I need to invest the time now.In advance, thank you for your imput