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Old 05-08-2014, 07:08 PM   #1
Rivet Master
 
1972 27' Overlander
Denver , North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 768
Images: 4
'72 Overlander: A little help with the floor

As you can see by the title, I am working on my 72 Overlander. It had rear end sag, and floor rot like many trailers I see here. Other than that the trailer is in very good condition. I've got the old floor out, Rebuilt the frame, reattached the C channel and have one...little...problem. I had a helper with me who took a trip to the dump and my old floor "templates" went with him.

I used the C channel as a template for the curvature and cut the floor based on that, but my issue is this: How can I measure correctly for the Black tank and other plumbing fitting cutouts? My thought is to install the new tank in the new pan, surround it with foam to mitigate movement, than take one measurement off the main frame channel to the center of the flange. And another from the rear C channel to the center of the flange and X marks the spot. I'll do the same with the vent and other fixtures. Does this make sense? And other ideas? I am open for suggestions.

Attached are some of the Before pics. Note the chicken wire reapair...
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Old 05-08-2014, 07:24 PM   #2
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1973 27' Overlander
Portsmouth , Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2012
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When I did the rear bath floor last year, I used a piece of 1/4" masonite as the template for the floor which worked fine and then I tried to measure out for the holes for the various plumbing cutouts. Never quite made them just right by measuring so I ended up making the holes much larger and then used some duct tape to accurately layout the holes to cut. Worked like a charm.




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Old 05-08-2014, 07:51 PM   #3
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1972 27' Overlander
Denver , North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 768
Images: 4
Bob,

Great idea I'll grab some Masonite this weekend.

Thanks!
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Old 05-10-2014, 04:37 PM   #4
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1972 27' Overlander
Denver , North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 768
Images: 4
Of course it rained cats and dogs today. At least I managed to get the pattern cut and the black tank prepared installed valve etc.
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Old 05-10-2014, 07:56 PM   #5
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1973 27' Overlander
Portsmouth , Virginia
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It always takes much longer to do than you plan, just seems to be the nature of things.
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Old 05-11-2014, 08:25 AM   #6
Rivet Master
 
1972 27' Overlander
Denver , North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 768
Images: 4
Amen to that Bob. I've redone a few homes, some down to the studs and floor joists. What I find with this thing is something the should be painfully apparent - it's Curved..! Not having a good line to work off of presents its own set of issues. Then trying to decide what to leave in and what to take out... I figure like anything else you do the first time it takes four times as long as you plan for. Next time be a little faster...and a little faster....One day, I'll walk into one and know exactly what I need to remove to do the job. Thanks again for your advice.

Dave
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Old 05-11-2014, 02:03 PM   #7
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1973 27' Overlander
Portsmouth , Virginia
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I guess the difference with me is that I don't plan on doing this again, I'm getting a bit too old for all the bending and crawling around. But I figure that any other projects should just be some normal maintenance and or minor remods, nothing major like the bath or the current kitchen work.
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Old 05-11-2014, 05:18 PM   #8
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1972 27' Overlander
Denver , North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 768
Images: 4
I hear you. I'm at the point where once the floor is in, I am on the downhill side of this resto. I will be working from home next week so I won't have travel time to contend with. My goal is an installed floor. Also found a place that I drive past three or four times a month - they sell campers. What I learned was they've been I business for 50 years and have tons of stuff. I never thought I'd get this excited about a toilet
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