'69 Safari bath floor repair

[Pariscope]

Thanks Wabbiteer,
I got it done right this time and now I am just waiting for the bolts from Vintage. No movement and solid. I mitered the edges going under the cabin because it was too tight to get into place otherwise. Then I sledged the new pieces into place. I painted all ends and top and bottoms to seal.
I honestly would not have done this over if you had not interceded the project. Thank's for helping.

[Pariscope]

I just posted my photos and got all yours. I used painted floor decking. What is Nyloboard?
Fotochop, Have you done the black water trap already and just in the last day or so?
Hope I can move forward now myself. I need to repipe now. Any suggestions on the black pipe?

[fotochop]

Originally Posted by paris

I just posted my photos and got all yours. I used painted floor decking. What is Nyloboard?
Fotochop, Have you done the black water trap already and just in the last day or so?
Hope I can move forward now myself. I need to repipe now. Any suggestions on the black pipe?

google nyloboard and you'll find a poly-composite-non-wood-sheet product that oughta last forever, only possible drawback being a bit more flexible than plywood but you can deal with that...kinda pricey though...

got all the black abs drain pipe back together (I had chopped it in a coupla places to make easier the floor insert and just glued the chops back up with nipples (sleeves..in the oilfield we called 'em 'nipples')...kinda tricky to get that tub drain back in with no floor access..use a lotta plumber's putty... also took me a while to figure out the tub drain has no nut, well, mine didn't, but the lav drain DOES have a nut (which is why I broke off the p-trap there way back in the beginning of this thread)...I guess the lav drain has a nut because it's not static & supported like the tub is and might sway while rolling down the hiway...but if that sucker ever has to come off again I will need to figure out how to get access from behind/beneath to get the dang nut off first...also: since the chrome lav drain piece is nutted on this means I will have to tighten the nut, THEN GLUE the abs drain pipe in its fitting AFTER....whew! man, those AS engineers sure knew how to make things difficult...I"m hoping somebody replies: 'lose the nut, you don't need it'...I must have a screw loose...;-)

not sure what your'e referring to as "black water trap"...it's just a toilet flange-screwed into the tank...the dump valve assembly has it's own "tee" where the gray water exits AFT of the dump valve...I changed my Thetford to an easier-to-find Valterra since my Thetford Tee was Toast and I didn't wanna get it repaired...

[Pariscope]

Hey Rick, I understand! I have to have the tub gel-coated first so putting it back in will be some time. I will google "Valterra" for a new dump valve and trade in the old one for brass scrap! Heavy sucker! I am not going to replace this latest floor repair, she's done. Where did you get the black abs pipe that small? (PLS)

[fotochop]

Originally Posted by paris

Hey Rick, I understand! I have to have the tub gel-coated first so putting it back in will be some time. I will google "Valterra" for a new dump valve and trade in the old one for brass scrap! Heavy sucker! I am not going to replace this latest floor repair, she's done. Where did you get the black abs pipe that small? (PLS)

it's all 1.5 inch abs which should be available at any decent hardware store.. there's a recent thread by a guy who rebuilt his brass dump valve using a couple of o-rings from McMaster if you decide you want to keep it. I think Inland RV has a method of repairing the Thetford T's although I haven't seen anyone else say they could, if you're having dump tee problems..

[Pariscope]

Thanks Rick,
Eh! it leaks man, You know I can't have that stinky junk going on. But your right about rebuilding it. I don't know how to do allot of data transfer yet but he has a thread just for the Dump valve repair. I just need to replace the O ring that's all. Crapper hasn't been used for years so it isn't too bad if I don't think on it too much.
Just make it right ! right?
Washed the walls and clipped all the stubbed rivits out. Ready to primer the inside next week end.
How's your coming along?

[byamcaravanner]

Originally Posted by fotochop

...1.5 inch ABS which should be available at any decent hardware store...

In my state (and many others) it is prohibited from residential construction so it's not readily available at the traditional supply outlets... but they do have it at the RV parts places.

[fotochop]

Originally Posted by byamcaravanner

In my state (and many others) it is prohibited from residential construction so it's not readily available at the traditional supply outlets... but they do have it at the RV parts places.

glad you guys have the building trades on a tight leash up there, bc, it makes for safer and more uniform living spaces. down here we can use bamboo... unless it's cracked...then you have to put some jb weld on it...

had a little electrical issue I had to get help on, paris, but should be posting another short update later today...still pushing hard to be beach camping by May...

[CJ of Okla]

Question! The two braces that run corner to corner under the belly pan that support the black tank. It looks like it is welded to the frame.

I thought they were suppose to be held in place with a bolt so you can drop the belly. How was your in place for you to remove. It looks like there is a double angle iron at the back that makes a lip for the belly alumn, holding it in place. There are a couple bolts on the far sides that attach to that plate that is the floor attached to the bumper. I am sorry this is hard for me to explain. Are we going to have to remove the floor attached to the bumper, cut the bolts and or the angle iron (which is welded in various spots). Not sure if this was factory or PO did something. Hubby is afraid to start cutting as not sure what to do and not to do.

[fotochop]

without seeing a picture of yours it's hard to say, but in this picture below what I'm holding is the old, rusted tab that was replaced with the new welded-on one just behind it:



if your floor is not rotten you can replace(reweld) these tabs from below. if the floor's OK you'll save a lot of work by not messing with it. If your tank supports are permanently welded you are running into the problem with this setup: if you ever need to remove it, you can't.

just cut them out and weld on some new tabs with holes and bolts for future access/removal

[CJ of Okla]

Our bathroom is gutted and the rotted floor is out. Found my camera and have taken some photos. I will try and down load before Friday. We aren't taking our A/S, but we are going the the Branson Airstream Ralley Friday April 4. There is going to be about 18 trailers and a couple families staying in the lodge. We will have our AS back together by the October Ralley.

Anyway I will try and get the photos posted so you can help us. I think hubby is afraid to cut into the old stuff, for fear he can't get it back together. Maybe at the Ralley this weekend he can crawl under some trailers and see how theirs are put together.

You have done a great job on your 69.

[CJ of Okla]

Sorry didn't get the photos downloaded. I will let you know how our Branson rally went. You need to plan to come to the October Branson, MO rally. Louisiana is just a few states away.

Carolyn

[fotochop]

i see a few rallies in my future, ceej, but not this one...although I just LOVE that "hog with piglets" logo!! if you or anyone else sees a t-shirt of this get one for me and I will gladly pay plus shipping (I wear a medium ;-)

[Pariscope]

The learning experience is the funnest part of this whole rebuild. Thanks to Rick and many others all the answers are here in Air Forum if you look for them. Ricks photos have been most instructive. So many good folks reading these Messages just kick in at times and no one is really alone. Just ask and you will get some help. My floor is real simple and I have very little challenges to deal with.
My challenge (now that the floor is replaced) ... to wire my hot water heater from the old location of the power supply my 1963Globe which is on the other side of the cabin. I am considering drilling a 4" hole on either side of the cabin and fishing my wire through Floor braces to the other side to get to the water heater. (Unless Rick says no that is).
We are with you CJ!

[Pariscope]

Count me in too on the T's shirt (please!)

[CJ of Okla]

Got back from the Branson rally and hubbie got all fired up and took the grinder and cut the bolts and weld spots. The belly is now laying in the driveway. It was great to talk to people who had been there done that. Gave James the information he needed. Apparently the PO had welded a steel (rust) plate for the floor of the bumper compartment then welded extra angle iron to hold the belly sheet. We didn't realize that the belly sheet was suppose to go all the way out to the bumper and cover where the Steel had been welded. Well it is all gone now. So in the next few week we will be POR15 the frame. I well try and keep you all informed.

[Pariscope]

CJ, was it difficult to take off the belly pans? Did you raise the trailer up? I had thought I might do the same thing to run my wiring to the new AC/Propane water heater. Fotochop replace some of his inslation with flexible silver padding instead of what Airstream used.
Send me photo of the bellypan and how you lifted trailer if you did?

[CJ of Okla]

Paris, My hubby had the nose of the trailer down so the back end was up. See if you can find PizzaChop on the forum. He has some great photos of his 73 Sovereign. It looks just like our 69 Sovereign. He has some great photos of the belly skin laying on the ground.

CJ

[fotochop]

Originally Posted by paris

CJ, was it difficult to take off the belly pans? Did you raise the trailer up? I had thought I might do the same thing to run my wiring to the new AC/Propane water heater. Fotochop replace some of his inslation with flexible silver padding instead of what Airstream used.
Send me photo of the bellypan and how you lifted trailer if you did?

bellypan's not hard to remove, but if there's propane lines on top you must (SAFETY!! AVOID PROPANE IF YOU DON'T KNOW HOW IT WORKS! AGAIN: SAFETY!) remove the propane lines (and stab.jacks, etc. if necessary) and drill out the rivets holding the pan on....

I added some Reflectix mylar insulation and will add pink foam board on top of that before close-up..

[fotochop]

hey, finally, some PRETTY pictures (instead of stomach-curdling crud...)

after chasing down a half-dozen or so plumbing trickles...and lemme tell ya, it ain't no piece of cake hooking up all that pex before riveting the plastic components back together...and making sure the wiring was OK...got to riveting back the plastic and adding trim holders..



my plan is to have white plex doors made (I know a guy who's just super at this and not at all expensive...plus he used to build the sets for the Morgus the Magnificent TV show here in the 60's..) for the sliding cabinet and the two upper cabinets...the plywood was not in great shape and seemed heavy anyway..plex will be much more elegant, especially with the wonderful chamfered indentation pulls Phil the Phabricator can do..

I sure wish that original shower head had an on/off button! makes 'navy showers' kinda tricky when you are turning on/off 2 separate faucets..sigh..but it IS orignal..and beautiful...you'll notice I left the window trim pieces "antique" (off) white... I'm also planning to leave the actual flexible trim pieces their original faded white/tan...why? well, I'm really into the idea of VESTIGES...yknow when there's just a little bit of something remaining to remind you of what once was? and those old faded tan/white trim pieces will remind me of what a nightmare this bath once was...and how nice it is now ;-)



will no doubt have to touch up a few spots with Interlux white poly..you really have to manhandle some of those bath parts in place then cleco them...I was truly disappointed with the fit (or lack of it) of a couple of pieces and it became really clear why some had cracked...they're just under too much stress...I have high hopes for my G-Flex repairs though..this stuff seems much tougher but still flexes...should be just the ticket....I kept all the original faucets & fixtures...hard to find parts for a few but no sense replacing them until the sitch becomes truly desparate..I think the grass-green VCT linoleum looks pretty good in here..adds a nice bit of color...I have enough to do the entire trailer (next project)...



in this photo above you can see that I re-wrapped that aft closet with new .025 aluminum since the faded white formica was mucho-crappy...got a nice piece of aluminum angle I'm going to rivet on as trim and I think this door will either get a new aluminum face or become white plex to match the others....

today was a VERY exciting day for me: my trailer's been a parts yard / trash heap for what? four months now so this morning I cleaned everything out, stashed the tools in the closet, fired up the a/c and actually did part of a photo shoot inside with my hugely-talented buddies, The Iguanas!!



Joe Cabral (2nd from rt) is the proud owner of a 27' Overlander and one of the guys who turned me on to Airstreams back in the day...I keep trying to talk him into towing his rig with his amazing 1929 Ford coupe but its probably a bit low-slung for this kind of towing anyway....