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Old 10-01-2020, 03:19 PM   #1
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1967 28' Ambassador
Waco , Texas
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67 Ambassador 28' Shell Question

I intended to remove the shell the way many of you have suggested in other posts and built a gantry before I noticed my shell doesn't seem to fit the patterns of other models--or I'm just confused.

I was expecting to detach the shell from below the C-Channel, lift it off, pull out the frame and set the shell on the ground while I worked on the frame. But, it looks like my shell doesn't attach to the frame the way I expected it to. Instead of attaching at the C-Channel, it continues and attaches to the bottom of the frame. I see I can't set it down on the ground. Is that normal?

My sons have suggested I cut a four-foot-wide section out of the floor and attempt a "shell-on" rehab--which many of you have said is not the way to go.

So, is this shell attachment just a '67 thing? Am I missing something. How should I continue?

P.S. I am new to this and just getting started but I have already benefitted MUCH from reading your wisdom and experience. Thank you!

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Old 10-01-2020, 03:47 PM   #2
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1962 19' Globetrotter
1951 21' Flying Cloud
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Hi. 66-69 (maybe a few more years +/-) Airstreams have the side sheets that wrap under to form a bit of the belly pan. The C (U) channel is still similar.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wVELWoHp6QDFQv5x5

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Old 10-01-2020, 06:36 PM   #3
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1976 Argosy 24
1961 28' Ambassador
1968 26' Overlander
Lafayette , Colorado
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Hi there, did a shell on floor in my '68 Overlander this past year, I thought it's the way to go, at least in this year range of trailers. Lance is correct and his picture is accurate,the side sheets in the body sections (not the ends) begins to wrap under the trailer and then connect to a narrow band that just seems to float and wraps further under to meet the belly pan, kind of a strange and not like earlier or later trailers. I did one end of the floor at a time, choose your method on floor removal AFTER taking lots of measurements and photos. Consider a paper floor template before doing anything. remove the floor section between the wheel wells and the ones behind it. Cut and prep the new floor sections then put it up in the trailer through the wheel well openings and start sliding it back. Pushing will get hard, hammers won't work, get a good 3 foot prybar or the equivalent and pry against the crossmembers, it should move right along. That's the basic idea, if you want/need more info PM me. I was very pleased at how smoothly it went. '67 should also have the 5/8" drops every other crossmember where the joints go, 5/8" ply goes in there under the joints for support, you'll see when you take it apart. I'll try to find some decent pics if I can, no gantries needed. Drawback is that you work on the frame as needed when the floor pieces are out, also means belly-pan on your back. Really helps to have it on tall (6 ton) jack stands.
Good luck... Mark D
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Old 10-02-2020, 04:44 PM   #4
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1967 28' Ambassador
Waco , Texas
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Mark, I feel like the clouds have parted and the sun has shown itself! Thank you.

I haven't been able to find jackstands that are tall enough to do me any good yet. Did you put your stands on a pedestal?

I looks like the order for me is to
1. de-rivet and drop the belly pan and put on jack stands
2. measure and mark the pattern on the floor
3. remove the floor
4. de-rust and paint the frame
5. insulate in the frame
6. re-install the floor and the battens
7. all the rest like wiring, inlulating, re-installing the wall panels etc. etc.

If you see any errors, please raise a flag. Again, thank you!
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Old 10-02-2020, 04:46 PM   #5
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1967 28' Ambassador
Waco , Texas
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Thanks, Lance. Yes, your picture perfectly illustrates the 67's non-normal shell treatment. Mark's explanation gives me a track to run on.
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Old 10-03-2020, 08:16 AM   #6
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1976 Argosy 24
1961 28' Ambassador
1968 26' Overlander
Lafayette , Colorado
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Posts: 46
Hey Doug, bought the jack stands on e-bay, Big Red, 6 ton stands. I like to get the trailer on stands before the belly pan removal. Have you picked a spot where you're going to do the work? Fortunately I was indoors on a concrete floor. If you're going to be out side I would put something under the jack stands. I remember having a really hard time with the belly pan rivets on the '68, I ended up using a die grinder (air powered) bit to take the heads off, I just couldn't seem to get any drill/bit combination to work. They were some hefty, strong rivets. Getting started feels good...
Mark D
Pics - jack stands at either end of axle plate, frame exposed, well into rebuild (progress and hope)
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