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Old 03-12-2010, 07:48 PM   #21
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I got a great word of advice from Rich Viking a couple of weeks ago."If you haven't already take our the floor first then the bellypan"Working on the bellypan today and I can image how nasty it would have been taking it off first.
I also discovered using a multitool from Harbor freight let me cut out the floor flush with the channel to use fo templates adding the width of the channel on the new floor sections.
The multitool allowed me to cut on top of the frame with no damage ,the in the open space between I used a sawsall with a 4 in" blade.It worked really well.Steve
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Old 03-12-2010, 07:54 PM   #22
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PS on the bits, get some good carbon bits.I also found using a drill with a cord or an air drill will keep you drilling longer than a cordless.The carbon bits last longer and cut faster.Fastenal if you have one near by is a good source.Good luck!It only gets better.Steve
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Old 03-12-2010, 08:00 PM   #23
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^^ I think he meant 'Cobalt'. Cobalt Alloy steel drill bits can drill into the steel HSS drill bits are made from... And titanium coated bits are a gimmick except in special instances like drilling hardwoods where the titanium acts as an anti-friction compound.
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Old 03-12-2010, 08:06 PM   #24
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^^ I think he meant 'Cobalt'. Cobalt Alloy steel drill bits can drill into the steel HSS drill bits are made from... And titanium coated bits are a gimmick except in special instances like drilling hardwoods where the titanium acts as an anti-friction compound.
Thanks Wabbiter.How silly of me! Cobalt is the one he wants.
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Old 03-12-2010, 09:32 PM   #25
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Thanks guys cobalt #30 it is. Hey Steve do you have a link for that multitool?
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Old 03-13-2010, 06:54 AM   #26
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It's a knock off of the Fein Multimaster.It comes with a couple of blades ,sanding blades,scrapers.Check your local Harbor Freight Store or harborfreight.com.
It was on sale yesterday for $34.99 when I was there.
I used the offset blade.Be sure to get an extra blade or a better blade that fits from HD or Lowes.
I first used at an angle to score the cut then went back cut a hole through to enlarge.I then put the sawsall blade in and cut almost to the frame.I then went back to the multitool(which is slower and safer than the sawsall)and cut the portion sitting on the frame.
Leave the remainder of the ply under the channel until you replace the floor sections.
Outstanding you have a 64!Check Ambie 64s thread on his 64 renovation(Ambassador Redux).Much for you to learn there .He did an outstanding job.
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Old 03-13-2010, 11:54 AM   #27
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Were any body elses windows seemingly stuck permanently to the windowsills when they got their vintage Airstream. Mine won't budge...and I fear prying them would break the glass.
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Old 03-13-2010, 11:57 AM   #28
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Did you do a shell off Steve?
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Old 03-13-2010, 03:51 PM   #29
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I bought a 68 overlander about two months ago. So far I have done the following:

Entirely gutted
Relpaced subfloor in back
Rewired
Replumbed

All of these chores were daunting and I dreaded doing them. Once i got to moving along on them it seemed to be easier than I thought. I definitely takes two people to do the subfloor. Everything else I did my self.

The remaining things I am going to do in consecutive order:
Reinstall Shower and Toilet Surroud after epoxy painting them.
Kool-Seal the roof to discourage further leaks
Install tankless water heater to save weight and water
Install good laminate flooring
Build beds, cabinets, walls,
Have a party when it is done!

I figure Ill spend about $2500 on this project. This website definitley was the best resource for planning.

Good Luck, I looks like you are about a month behind me! I hope to be done in another month and a half or so.
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Old 03-13-2010, 04:10 PM   #30
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Thanks ddwyer! Pictures, words of advice, funny stories??? Not so funny stories???
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Old 03-13-2010, 04:55 PM   #31
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Did you do a shell off Steve?
Shell on.Windy where I am and did not have enough room in the barn.Going well.Got belly pan out today,ground off bolts and start cleaning the frame tomorrow.There are a few places I want to reinforce with angle iron in the back and beef up the channel to floor hold down in the rear.
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Old 03-13-2010, 06:40 PM   #32
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I think I am going to go with the shell off approach. We don't have much plywood left around the border of the wall. may as well just get the shell up and work unencumbered. Keep me posted though on the shell on thing, if you have any epiphanies, I would love to hear them.
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Old 03-13-2010, 07:16 PM   #33
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Mrs JFerguson and I are seriously considering changing the floor plan completely. Since we don't have any existing stuff, no reason to be a slave to the old plan. We have been talking about moving the master bed to the rear, putting bunks on the port side over the the wheel well and the shower and head over the starboard side fender. My concern is how do I plumb around the fender well.
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Old 03-13-2010, 07:23 PM   #34
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Since we don't have any existing stuff, no reason to be a slave to the old plan.
Other than keeping the balance of the trayla reasonable and the tongue weight in line, nope, you don't!
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Old 03-13-2010, 07:28 PM   #35
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Aage...keep me honest!!! What is the ideal weight ratio for one of these trailers in terms of weight forward of the axle and aft of the axle?
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Old 03-13-2010, 07:28 PM   #36
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Howdy, I've found two concerns in designing the FC. Over the fender well for the Bath is going to work however I've had to create a space in the bath stall design so the gray water form the sink witch will be forward of the bath to run thru a space created for in the wall of the shower front step over. Also I've found that the Black water plumbing needs to come through the floor back of the axles. Axle movement will not allow the plumbing to travel over the axles.I have a drawing I could share with you on what my plan is to date.
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Mrs JFerguson and I are seriously considering changing the floor plan completely. Since we don't have any existing stuff, no reason to be a slave to the old plan. We have been talking about moving the master bed to the rear, putting bunks on the port side over the the wheel well and the shower and head over the starboard side fender. My concern is how do I plumb around the fender well.
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Old 03-13-2010, 07:29 PM   #37
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I think I am going to go with the shell off approach. We don't have much plywood left around the border of the wall. may as well just get the shell up and work unencumbered. Keep me posted though on the shell on thing, if you have any epiphanies, I would love to hear them.
Before you shell off check out the bracing some are doing to keep the shell from distorting.Ambassador Redux thread has some good pictures of the bracing for the shell off.
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Old 03-13-2010, 07:42 PM   #38
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The head "needs" to empty straight down into the black tank so keep that in mind.

It doesn't "have" to but plumbing can be problematic and lead to excessive flushing and that will fill the black tank pretty quick.
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Old 03-13-2010, 07:45 PM   #39
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I am all about K.I.S.S. Plumbing. what if I had the tank start above floor level with the comode sitting atop it and the tank goes down into the center deck beneath the passage way.
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Old 03-14-2010, 08:19 PM   #40
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It's begun

Removed some interior panels today. Decided to stop till I could get a good dust mask...that insulation is bad for the lungs. Surprise, surprise, some fiberglass over the old bathroom instead of aluminum. Hmm wonder if that it stock?
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