2004 Classic 30 - To Lift or Not Lift?

[cru-in]

Hi Team,

We have a wonderful 2004 Classic 30 and have an appointment at JC for tires, brakes, bearings, leak check & seal, etc. I am considering having them lift the AS.

As the 2004 Classic is fairly long and low, we have occasionally dragged the rear. Also, with our truck, we need a 7 inch drop bar.

I have read where some folks have JC install a (3" as I recall) lift.

I would appreciate any info on the pros/cons, your thoughts, and the cost.

Thanks
Dan

[jaybauman]

I have a FC30 Bunk. Miraculously, I have never dragged the ground anywhere except my own driveway--which has a steep, short apron between the curb and the sidewalk. After adding the 3" lift, I can easily pull into the drive. This gives me a bit of confidence when I'm out "in the wild". Other than the minimal cost involved, I can see no downside of doing it. I say go for it.

[uraljohn]

While at JC have them check to see if you need new axles. A 2004 is probably close to axle replacement date. You can have new axles installed that have an increased down angle from stock that will get you additional clearance without the lift. It may be that your original axles are already sagging enough to have the occasional dragging of the rear take place. The tech can check that.

[BayouBiker]

I you stick to the concrete and asphalt and want your trailer to have the best opportunity to handle emergencies you should not lift it and instead try to avoid large swales and ridges especially entering standard vehicle gas stations.. If you boon dock and want to be able to travel rougher more uneven terrain and are willing to make that trade off go with the lift.

[TouringDan]

I agree with both statements made by the previous posters- uraljohn and BayouBiker. I installed new axles on our 66 Tradewind but kept the stock angle because I felt it still provided adequate clearance for boondocking yet would keep the trailer low enough so it had the best and safest handling characteristics.

Dan

[DaveP]

I also have a 2004 Classic, but a 28 foot. Are there definitive measurements that the OP (and I) can make to determine if the axles needs to be replaced?

[jcanavera]

Hopefully this will help. https://inlandrv.com/dura-torque-axle-article/

I've got a 2004 30' Classic Slide Out and I don't show any signs of needing axles at this point. Rear end drag is something I'm cognitive of and I have experienced it the mostly at service stations. I've become pretty adept in spotting the drag scars you usually see on the ground and avoid those areas. I've also exited off the interstate for gas only to find those drag marks and will bypass the station and go somewhere else.

Only time I got scared was at a campground up in Estes Park. It was a pretty steep climb to get to my site. The road was gravel/dirt composition and I was towing a 30' SOB. I came down the hill and when I reached the bottom, I heard the scraping sound from the rear of my trailer. I stopped and looked and realized that both wheels on the rear axle were just off the ground with the two skid brackets on the rear supporting the trailer. I moved very slowly and the wheels went back on the ground. No damage to the trailer other than a little paint on the bottom of the skid brackets. Glad the road was soft and that I was going very slowly.

Jack

[DaveP]

Jack,

Thanks for the article. Good information on the axles! I am going to take a look this afternoon.

Thanks,

[guskmg]

The most damaging part of dragging the rear end is getting into a position were you must back out of because the dip was deeper than you estimated. Then you get into a situation where you can only go forward because the skid jams up against the rise if you back up. Now damage is inevitable. I would lift any TT where that is a possibility. An option would be to weld a curved runner several inches wide arcing up from the low point to the top. Also, a wheel welded where the contact point is just slightly below the contact arc would maybe be better. Both options may not prevent damage due to the long overhang aft of the rear wheels. Weakness of the frame from the wheels aft is the basic problem
guskmg

[Louie Dee]

After owning 2 34' and several 30' A/Ss my experience let me to add 4" wheels to the rear frame. This provided a much smoother transition over different surface levels.

[BayouBiker]

If you carry a couple or three of small pieces of plywood for emergencies, you can slap that down and let the plywood take the hit......

[Al and Missy]

I replaced the axles on my 2002 Classic 30 Slideout and still had dragging issues. I added the 3" (really 2-7/8") lift kit from Dexter. I can't tell any difference in handling and doubt that raising the vertical CG 3" had a significant effect on handling. I'd do both again in a heartbeat.

Axle replacement (and disc brake conversion):
For axle info see post #38
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f43...ss-177345.html

Lift kit installation:
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f43...ay-189927.html

[BayouBiker]

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

I replaced the axles on my 2002 Classic 30 Slideout and still had dragging issues. I added the 3" (really 2-7/8") lift kit from Dexter. I can't tell any difference in handling and doubt that raising the vertical CG 3" had a significant effect on handling. I'd do both again in a heartbeat.

Axle replacement (and disc brake conversion):
For axle info see post #38
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f43...ss-177345.html

Lift kit installation:
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f43...ay-189927.html

You won't notice any difference at all in handling when traveling at posted speeds and following the recommended cornering speeds. The differences will appear in severe yaw and roll over hard cornering and avoidance swerves. Using a roll over model, I estimate the difference may be as much as 20% decrease in cornering stability. Airstreams are very good to begin with, so the 20% drop still leaves good stability relative to many tall trucks but still worthy of considering.

[nwdave]

Have anyone done airbags yet. I belive that well install and cabin controlled can be a asset to hills and high ground gas stations

[DaveP]

Originally Posted by nwdave

Have anyone done airbags yet. I belive that well install and cabin controlled can be a asset to hills and high ground gas stations

Unfortunately, with torsion bar axles, there is no place to do air bags. No leaf springs and only the arms articulate.

[carl2591]

2005 classic and did new axles from Redneck trailer. did 3" high brackets and 32 down angle.. it move the body from old axles height some 4.25".. if I would do it again i would just go with 3" high brackets and 22.5 down angle.. which will give you about 3.75" over where you are now.. on old saggy axles.

dont spend money on lift kit do axles and be done..

[DaveP]

Originally Posted by carl2591

2005 classic and did new axles from Redneck trailer. did 3" high brackets and 32 down angle.. it move the body from old axles height some 4.25".. if I would do it again i would just go with 3" high brackets and 22.5 down angle.. which will give you about 3.75" over where you are now.. on old saggy axles.

dont spend money on lift kit do axles and be done..

What Carl said!!!