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Old 02-10-2018, 03:28 PM   #101
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Hi Matt, All,
The rear plywood came out in three pieces, but here it is, kind of put together...

Thanks,
David
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Old 02-10-2018, 03:41 PM   #102
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FWIW: My floor is 3/4.

I also slid my full rear subfloor sheet in from the back (with persuasion). A little extra space for accomplishing this came from the floppiness of the street side with the water heater out, easing down the frame rails by applying downward pressure with inserted 2 x 4's, and trimming off a tad of the rear skin (which was corroded anyway). Some folks have no qualms piecing together the subfloor in sections, but since the integrated shell/floor/frame is the designed strength of these trailers, it was important to me to replace as originally built.

The rear crossmember is the inverted U seen in the refurb'ed pic, with the hold down plate and floor above it.

Have fun,
Alan
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Old 02-10-2018, 04:02 PM   #103
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Hi Alan,
Thanks! I am sorry, but I cannot quite figure out the photo. Did you add this piece? Is it steel? If it is U-shaped, it also has a flange on each side?
I really want to replace just the one piece, so I love this !!!!


Thanks,
David
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Old 02-10-2018, 05:51 PM   #104
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I looked for a pic that might show this better, but no luck. The way I sealed off the back end of my trailer involved adding a skin extension down to the belly pan level (another discussion), but that causes a reflection that is confusing in the picture. The painted inverted U steel channel is the original back crossmember. Each of its ends are bolted underneath the upper horizontal part of the C's of the main frame. (Boy, a picture is worth...) Anyway, this crossmember is the base for the rear frame-hold down plate-subfloor-aluminum U channel sandwich, that ties everything together. It's about 2" wide and as long as the distance between the frame rails. As for thickness, it needs to be rigid, but just remember you'll be drilling a few holes though it later.

One other thing for planning ahead purposes: The 2 bolts for these crossmember ends/frame rail connections will also go through the layers mentioned, so you can see how lining all this up at these 2 points is critical.

It looks as though you're going to have to assume nothing you find in the back structure of your trailer is even close to the original. (I can't tell what's going on with that added ply under your subfloor.) The good news is, you will not face anything that somebody hasn't already figured out a solution for on these forums, and probably with an improved result.

I hop this is helpful,

Alan
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Old 02-10-2018, 05:59 PM   #105
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Hi Alan,
Thanks very much! I will study this after dinner, when things quiet down a bit...


Thanks,
David
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Old 02-10-2018, 06:48 PM   #106
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My subfloor is 3/4 plywood also. I doubt your subfloor was previously replaced judging from the rot it has. There is a plywood "splice" every 4 feet or so under the trailer. The photo is of a splice cross member under my trailer. If you look closely, you can see the plywood splice. I believe this is what you discovered when you removed the rear subfloor. The frame cross members are made different from one and another. The ones with the plywood splices are shorter in height to accommodate the plywood splices.

The rear crossmember is a U channel. Mine was quite rusted. See photo below. Yours looks better. To repair rear end separation, you have to have a solid rear crossmember, a solid rear body plate, and a solid subfloor, and good bolts through the C channel, through the subfloor, through the rear crossmember and through the frame rail.

My rear C channel was fractured at the frame rails on both sides. See photo. I believe this C channel was formed in a big U that conformed to the body shape of the rear corners. I used aluminum angle to tie the frame rail bolts to the rear of the body mounting plate.

Here is a photo of the rear U shaped crossmember, the L shaped rear body plate. It might help.

Colorado David
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Old 02-10-2018, 07:36 PM   #107
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Thanks, Colorado David, for orienting me correctly on that photo. That clearly is the original splice board or cleat for the adjoining sheets.

I like your idea of tying in the bolts with the hold down plate. I did add a piece of aluminum stock cut to the curve of the channel to beef it up at that spot.

Alan
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Old 02-10-2018, 11:11 PM   #108
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Hi CD, All,
If you are saying what I think you are saying, it is truly better to be lucky than good... :-)
Just to be clear... the 3/4 inch plywood could indeed be original... and the lateral frame member that is approximately 4 feet from the rear (and between the two main longitudinal frame members) is not the same height as some of the other ones, specifically to allow for the plywood splice that I uncovered when I pulled that rear piece. Said another way, it is "notched" throughout the center section of the overall length (which includes the outriggers) so that the splice does not raise the overall height of the floor. Wow... I think you just saved me some heartache !!!
Now I need to make sure there is a rear support member (or make one), build a new galvanized tank box and provide support for it with new angle iron, replace the floor and put the bath and the rest of it all back together...
Does that sound right?

Thanks! I will definitely sleep better !!!!
David
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Old 02-11-2018, 08:46 AM   #109
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Hi CD,
Sorry to be so dense (again), but which photo shows the rear body plate?and is it directly under the U channel in the rear of the AS?

If I understand you correctly, the U channel is what rests on the plywood. I am unsure of whether the rear body plate is there on my AS, or (more likely) I have missed it so far.
I will take another photo of the rear, this time with the galvanized tank box removed. Maybe that will clear things up (as to its location or whether it is there or not).


Thanks,
David
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Old 02-11-2018, 01:24 PM   #110
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Hi CD, All,
Hopefully, I have identified the rear body brace/support/thing...it seems to be intact (if I have identified it correctly).
I removed the rusted tank box, which was still attached in a few places to shreds of the belly pan, and started sticking my camera in there.
Below are pics of:

1. Rear body support? This is under the U channel. View is from outside, with the storage compartment door lifted (there is no box below it) and looking in and up.

2. Rear body support beneath the U channel? The lighting is bad in this picture, but hopefully that is what I photographed. This view is from inside the AS. I am facing towards the rear, with the camera down at floor level, if not below.

Having never dismantled this stuff before, I have no sense of scale. Is the rear support an upside down U with bolts through from the top (through the U channel, through the plywood, through the support)? This is probably what you guys have been trying to show me, but I could not grasp...

Thanks,
David
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Old 02-11-2018, 06:21 PM   #111
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Yep, that's it. It is the rear crossmember that the rear of the body bolts to.

The parts stack up from the bottom is the U channel rear body crossmember that is welded to the frame rails, then the subfloor, then the rear body plate, and finally, the C channel on the top.

All of this structure holds the rear of the body to the frame.

Colorado David "CD"
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Old 02-11-2018, 06:48 PM   #112
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The rear crossmember (inverted U channel with the bolts through it) looks like it may be solid and only needs a little tlc. The flimsy aluminum sheet above it is the reason all of us have/had rotten bath floor and frame. It sends all the water that hits it right into the critical structural point, and it's only a matter of time before everything fails back there. It's affectionately referred to as "anti-flashing."

Above it is the "rear hold-down plate" which is steel and about as wide as the rear hatch opening. It is about a 100deg angle. The horizontal leg is bolted as described above and the vertical is the anchor for the skin, attached with rivets. Mine was Swiss cheese so I put in a stainless replacement, painted.

Alan
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Old 02-11-2018, 07:33 PM   #113
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I used a piece of stainless for the rear body plate too. It just made sense to me. I also painted it.

I won't be using the "anti flashing" piece. I want rainwater to run off the body and into the rear bumper storage compartment. I will then allow it to drain out with some drain holes in the belly pan.

David
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Old 02-11-2018, 10:04 PM   #114
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Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
I used a piece of stainless for the rear body plate too. It just made sense to me. I also painted it.



I won't be using the "anti flashing" piece. I want rainwater to run off the body and into the rear bumper storage compartment. I will then allow it to drain out with some drain holes in the belly pan.



David


Always been curious on that one, where is rainwater supposed to run out through the storage area? I couldn't see any drain holes as such, so drilled a few !
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Old 02-12-2018, 12:16 AM   #115
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Hi TX, CD, All,
If I am reading your responses correctly, I may be able to get away with using POR-15 on all of the exposed frame and then inserting 3/4 inch plywood to replace the floor that came out...
I feel like the luckiest person I can think of !!! I know that I need to rebuild/replace the galvanized tank box, but from there it seems fairly straightforward...
If I am off. please let me know !!!!


Thanks,
David
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Old 02-12-2018, 10:55 AM   #116
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Hi TennTex, CD, All,
Since there is nothing left of the storage box in the rear except its lid, is there a reason not to make the bottom out of steel mesh? I have some that is fairly robust (especially if cut to be that narrow)...
That way, if the water runs down the body as CD talks about it could go right through the bottom of the box.
Of course, this idea is based on the assumption that I will store the slinky and little else back there. Since our AS was missing that box, perhaps I can ask you guys: what typically is kept in it (that rear storage box)?


Thanks,
David
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Old 02-12-2018, 07:56 PM   #117
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I also drilled holes in the belly pan aluminum that acts as the floor to the rear bumper storage box. Rain water has to hit the ground, not soak into my subfloor edges.

The rear bumper storage box is commonly used to store the stinky slinky. My 1975 Overlander has the 3" wastewater drain manifold built into this box. There isn't much room for old stinky. The previous owner installed a plastic tube under the trailer for the slinky.

I use a macerator pump when draining the wastewater tanks. I don't use gravity. The macerator pump is in a box and in the tow vehicle. I do carry a slinky just in case.

How did they drain the wastewater tank in your trailer? I assume your trailer does not have a gray water tank.

David
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Old 02-12-2018, 09:57 PM   #118
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Hi David,
Thanks for the response! It sounds as if the belly pan on our AS was ripped off further forward than I thought...
There was nothing in the (only) tank. This AS has a history that is pretty much unknown to me -- we bought it at auction. Whether because of the deterioration of the floor or some other factor, the bath seems to have not been used for many years. The valve to empty the wastewater tank is just inside the shell. Until you posted what you did (thanks again , I had no clue about what the storage box in the back even looked like, except for the lid, which survived.
I hope to add a new inlet (if possible, in an effort to lower the tub) to the existing all-in-one tank, rebuild the tank box and its supports, replace the last 4 feet of floor and replace the belly pan.
I also have rot next to the front door, but replacing that section can come next :-)


Thanks,
David
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Old 02-13-2018, 12:18 AM   #119
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hello david, on my 64 overlander, it also had rotted the tank box out. what i replaced it with was 2 strips-2'' wide with a plastic base that the tank sits on. rubber strips to cushion the tank, some holes to let water drain. worked like a charm! kurt
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Old 02-13-2018, 08:51 AM   #120
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Hi Kurt,
Thanks! Did you build the box yourself, or have someone build it?

Thanks,
David
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