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Old 04-28-2019, 04:29 PM   #241
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1970 25' Caravanner
Incline Village , Nevada
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Here's to ongoing progress for you. I started restoring my first car, a '65 VW bug, 20 years ago. Still working on it.
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Old 04-28-2019, 08:04 PM   #242
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1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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A friend of mine in college had a 64 VW with some aftermarket modifications. It was such a fun car to drive; tight, responsive, pretty good handling, and lacking power and heat in the winter.

I have a soft spot for the VW beetle.

David
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Link to my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
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Old 04-28-2019, 11:58 PM   #243
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1980 24' Caravelle
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good to hear from you again dave. keep plugging away and you will finish. almost 3 yrs in and only 95% done. like you. i have had issues keeping me from doing more.hope to hear of more done in the near future. kurt
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Old 04-29-2019, 10:33 PM   #244
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1970 29' Ambassador
Beautiful Santa Rosa , California
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Hi Guys, All,
Well, maybe it was the mentions of old VWs (I have had at least 7 Ghias or buses), but progress was actually made today!

Below are two pics. My brother helped me get the plywood in place. It went in a lot easier that I had feared, and I used a step ladder inside, a 4 by 6 beam and a 4 by 4 post on the floor jack. I am pretty sure that I have a little trimming to do... :-)

Thanks,
David
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Old 04-30-2019, 07:42 PM   #245
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Conifer , Colorado
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I'm pretty sure you will be trimming too. Many folks who have replaced a big section of plywood this way usually have to trim a bit. It is hard to get that odd curve of the end cap just right.

Maybe you can mark it well, and then using your lifting device, pull the plywood back out and trim it to the mark.

I've used my belt sander with a medium grade grit successfully to trim rather accurately. Just a thought.

Colorado David
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Link to my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
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Old 05-15-2019, 12:48 PM   #246
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Cannot get rear window back in...

Hi All,
In my zeal to replace the floor I removed the rear window (to allow a beam to pass through). Now I cannot get the window to re-attach...
Any tricks or tips? I can get the "hook" on the top of the frame into the groove, but it will not stay as i close the window...



Thanks,
David
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Old 05-15-2019, 01:01 PM   #247
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Baltimore , Maryland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2002shds View Post
Hi All,
In my zeal to replace the floor I removed the rear window (to allow a beam to pass through). Now I cannot get the window to re-attach...
Any tricks or tips? I can get the "hook" on the top of the frame into the groove, but it will not stay as i close the window...



Thanks,
David
Yeah, it's a pain. I suggest getting a second person to hold the window and slowly lower it so you can use both hands to keep the hook in the groove. Start with the window above 90 degrees and take your time. It looks like it should be way easier than it actually is, especially for the wider windows.
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Old 05-15-2019, 01:30 PM   #248
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Thanks -- that is "Greatley" appreciated! My brother and I have been attempting this, but so far, no joy. Maybe I am swinging the window up too high to start. My arms get tired as I lower the window, and failure ensues...

Another thing I came up with is to perhaps try two "sticks" that will fit inside the frame and press the lip up into the channel (taking some of the weight off of my arms). I haven't tried it yet, though...


Thanks,
David
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Old 05-16-2019, 01:08 AM   #249
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Agree with David. 2 persons are helpful, and a lot of luck. If you find a helpful trick, please do share. Otherwise I have found you have to be seated perfectly in that channel to get it latched. A bit off and it gets hung up or just falls off when lowering.
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Old 05-16-2019, 06:26 PM   #250
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Conifer , Colorado
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My son's 69 Globetrotter has those goofy hinges. The cargo doors on my 75 Overlander has them too. I plan on installing hinges if I can.

Colorado David
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Link to my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
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Old 05-20-2019, 11:31 AM   #251
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Hi Guys',
We have been getting dumped upon, rain-wise. I have not even attempted to do this yet, but will post after it is back in -- hopefully, with a helpful hint.

Thanks,
David
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Old 05-21-2019, 04:20 PM   #252
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Those hinges...

Two things that helped me finish my windows, after nearly ruining the hinge on the first one:

Thoroughly clean each hinge, then wipe silicone spray on the interfacing surfaces with a rag. Wiping keeps you from having to clean the overspray, which is a pain.

Start at a fairly high angle, with a helper as mentioned. While lowering the window, apply upward pressure on the hinge ends with your hands and, on the middle of the hinge, use the edge of a piece of 2x4 to apply firm inward pressure.

Making these changes, the rest of my windows went on without a hitch on the first try.

Have fun,

Alan
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Old 05-27-2019, 10:21 PM   #253
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Hi Alan,
I am gonna try that. I will report back in a few days


Thanks,
David
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Old 09-18-2019, 09:49 AM   #254
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Rear window back onto the Ambassador

Hi Alan, All,
Of course, I should have said "a few months"... I FINALLY got the rear window back into its frame using a combination of the advice from this amazing forum and a little bit of logic.

I found an old post from Andy at Inland that described my situation perfectly -- the edges would line up and engage in the channel, while the middle would not. Andy (and several that replied to my post from May) suggested two people for the job. That was very true, and it was also true that getting the edges pushed into the channel and then pushing the middle section up in to the channel (edges still engaged) was the ticket. In my case, there were several places in the middle section that did not immediately go in, and it felt like the game Whack a Mole, as part of the window frame would go in and others would pop back out of the channel. I cut a piece of 1x2 lumber to exactly 23-13/16" long, which is just the right height to both touch the bottom of the window frame and provide "persuasion" up top -- meaning, the top portion could be tapped into a vertical position, seating the top of the window frame into its channel. With constant pressure provided by pushing up on those various points, a task that seemed hopeless just minutes before was done!

It is a vast understatement to say that I heavily relied (and continue to rely) upon this forum. Thanks again to all that offered your support and advice. Getting the window back in made me remember that old expression "where there is a will (and Airforums.com there is a way".

Thanks,
David
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Old 09-19-2019, 08:08 AM   #255
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We have used several of Andy's ideas to help us with our reno. He has been spot on for us too.
Glad you got it back together. I'd suggest (duh)that maybe you not take that window out again!

Kay
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Old 09-20-2019, 06:02 PM   #256
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Hi David: It's been a while. I haven't been working all that much on my Overlander either. Summer activities take their toll on the project.

I did remove all the side windows from my Overlander as I replaced the rubber gasket on them all. I found it easier to remove the old gasket and adhesive on the workbench, and not trying to clean them up while on the trailer. I got pretty good at aligning the "J" hinge to the drip rail groove and getting the thing started. I did smooth any sharp edges on the J hinge and cleaned the groove good. A little lubrication also helped out a bit. I could not get the big front or rear window out as the awning is in the way and I elected not to take it off the trailer. Anyway, I know the difficulty that you described in replacing the window to the trailer.

Press on...

Colorado David
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Link to my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
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Link to our 1976 Renovation Project:
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Old 09-24-2019, 11:20 AM   #257
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Hi Kay, Colorado David, All,

Wow, this took forever to get to! Even my response has taken too long -- sorry!

Kay, I agree -- based on that window, I won't attempt the front. But I do see the logic in CD's (Colorado David's) approach, and I am far less intimidated by the side windows... so I will likely remove one as a test.

My brother has been out to our house for the last 6 weeks. We got a lot done, including putting that rear window back in place. Now I am looking forward to finishing the projects that he and I were working on and spend some quality time on the Ambassador !

Hopetomistically,
David
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Old 01-01-2020, 11:41 PM   #258
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Hi All,
As I (finally) go to attach the plywood that has been slid in through the back of the AS, I am assuming that the frame should be as level as possible, correct?

I ask because there seems to be a bit of play in the body where it attaches to the C channel. I am guessing that the structural integrity (some of my favorite words will be restored when the plywood is attached to the frame and the body is attached as well.

Thanks,
David
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Old 01-02-2020, 05:48 AM   #259
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David, I canít really speak for a 70 AS, but our 55 had a lot of flexion in the frame. I leveled the chassis and placed screw jacks. I didnít release the jacks until I had the plywood and shell attached. Good luck
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Old 01-02-2020, 08:10 AM   #260
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Hi Bubba,
Thanks! I think that is the way to go.

David
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