Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 10-18-2018, 11:45 AM   #221
Rivet Master
 
TheGreatleys's Avatar
 
1974 27' Overlander
Baltimore , Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,026
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2002sheds View Post
Hi Greatleys,
Those are great photos! I especially love the barn door and hope to go that route in the back of the coach.

You are correct that the layout I will pursue is along those lines. I had a chance to read quite a bit of your blog, and it is fantastic -- thanks for publishing it! I just read Kay and Chris' account of their work on Little Girl, and that layout (while very similar to yours) may suit us best -- at least while we still have our son traveling with us.

Although I am a fan of open concept in our home, I like having a separation between the galley and the bedroom, as Little Girl has. In our case, as in Little Girl, I hope to have an offset hallway that passes the bedroom on the way to the rear bath. To tackle the height issue in the shower, I hope to lower the tub while retaining enough slope to drain -- wish me luck :-)

The biggest difference between my plan and the layout of Little Girl is the cabinet over the wheel well on the street side (I plan on locating the bed on the curb side). I plan on creating a 36 inch high, 12 inch deep cabinet along the street side, which will (hopefully) give the feeling of a wider hallway. At least that is the plan for now :-)

I asked this question of Chris and Kay (Minno) as well, but it would be great if you could share (again, maybe the detail as to how you attached the interior walls that you made to the coach. I was going to try to reuse the track that was used for the original, but now I am not as sure that it will be part of the design.

Thanks again for your response, and also your blog. It really helps to see how others have tackled the tasks that are coming up in front of me.


Thanks,
David
I used a few different methods. The walls around the fridge use 1/4" ply attached to the wall via aluminum extrusions from vintage trailer supply, similar to the factory design.

The bath wall has vent plumbing running through it, so I used lightweight steel studs instead to accommodate the thickness needed. I made relief cuts in one of the studs to accommodate the curve and riveted it to the wall, then riveted vertical studs to the curved one and attached the wall material to that.

The pantry wall by the bed is just attached to the pantry framing (1x2s screwed to the wall) and isn't directly attached to the wall at all.

I'm not sure if any of these methods are preferable to the others. I just did whatever worked in a particular area.
__________________

TheGreatleys is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2018, 11:06 AM   #222
4 Rivet Member
 
1970 29' Ambassador
Beautiful Santa Rosa , California
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 374
Hi Greatleys,

Thanks -- much appreciated !!!!!



David
__________________

2002sheds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2018, 04:27 PM   #223
Rivet Master
 
Minno's Avatar

 
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington , Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,727
Greatley's bedroom configuration is very similar to ours, just on the opposite side of the trailer. We're the same in that it's just the two of us and dog now. We didn't put in any kind of close off between the bedroom area and the kitchen and living area of the trailer as we didn't feel we need it. It would be easy to curtain it off if we wanted though. I like the Greatley's layout, too. We added the upper cabinets over the bed for storage - trying to squeeze as much as possible in! Our bed lifts up for storage underneath it.
I think we've finally tweaked the storage as much as we can. Now I just need to weed out the stuff we carry but don't really need....

Kay
Minno is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2018, 01:20 AM   #224
Rivet Master
 
1970 25' Caravanner
Incline Village , Nevada
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 631
looking forward to your vision of the mid bedroom with cabinet opposite. think it will go well if inspired by rail car design. are you planning on keeping it open or walling off?
Jeremy9107 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2018, 09:32 AM   #225
4 Rivet Member
 
1970 29' Ambassador
Beautiful Santa Rosa , California
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 374
Hi Jeremy,

The plan I have is to put walls back in at the same (or nearly the same) locations as the original. Having privacy in the bathroom is the obvious one, and I am far too messy to think that the kitchen contents wouldn't make their way into the bedroom area :-).

The bed itself may have a simple set of heavy curtains that can be closed while in bed for at least the illusion of privacy. Opposite the bed I plan to re-use the original overhead storage if it does not encroach on the center. If it does (and I think it will), I will modify the depth accordingly. I also plan to utilize counter-depth, shallow cabinetry the length of the bedroom/hall, in order to make the passage feel wider while covering the wheel well and providing at least some storage.

There were closets on both sides of the coach originally, so hopefully I can plan for the same, even though I will likely use thicker walls, as Mine and the Greatleys (and I'm sure many, many others) have used.


Thanks,
David
2002sheds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2018, 09:21 AM   #226
Rivet Master
 
Minno's Avatar

 
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington , Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,727
Our closets opposite the bed are quite shallow (about 16 inches deep or a little less), and we have to hang clothes crosswise in them (with hanger parallel to wall). We found pull out hanging clothes rods at Ikea that fit in the space for this for less than $10 apiece.

Kay
Minno is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2018, 02:25 PM   #227
4 Rivet Member
 
1970 29' Ambassador
Beautiful Santa Rosa , California
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 374
Hi Kay,
Great info ó thanks! I am getting very motivated to get back into this project!

One quick question: where did you find the struts/lifts for the bed?

Thanks,
David
2002sheds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2018, 08:16 AM   #228
Rivet Master
 
Minno's Avatar

 
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington , Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,727
West Marine for the bed lifts. The first set we bought weren't strong enough, so we ended up replacing them with a more powerful set. Our mattress is a Temperpedic style mattress from Original Mattress Factory and is very (as in VERY) heavy. If you had a lighter mattress, you can use lighter ones. The key is keeping the mattress UP while you're rummaging under it! Our dog likes to stand on the upper edge of the bed when it's up - something like "KIng of the Mountain" for him I think. Adds 13 lb to the weight of the mattress....
Bed opens to the side so we can more easily reach in it, and storage area is divided for inside storage and outside storage not quite down the middle (more towards the outside). We have 2 hatches on the outside that access the under bed storage. One was originally there, we acquired the other one and added it so we can access the whole outside storage area there.

Kay
Minno is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2018, 07:39 AM   #229
4 Rivet Member
 
1970 29' Ambassador
Beautiful Santa Rosa , California
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 374
Hi Kay,
Thanks! That outside access is brilliant !
2002sheds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2018, 11:26 AM   #230
4 Rivet Member
 
1970 29' Ambassador
Beautiful Santa Rosa , California
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 374
Which flooring?

Hi All,
I am nearing the point where I need to decide which material to put down as the new floor. The coach will be empty, so I will have the ability to put floor covering over the entire subfloor, if I'd like.
The main contenders are sheet vinyl (one big piece means faster installation (probably) or laminate flooring that I have from another project.
I have found no joy while searching for vinyl sheet flooring remnants, since the piece I am looking for needs to be 25 feet long, nor have I seen a lot of recommendations here on AirForums for laminate. In addition to the installation time, there is the weight of the laminate that concerns me a little and the reaction to the inevitable leaks that concern me even more.
I did quite a bit of reading her about which way to go, but it will help me to hear some of your experiences.


Thanks,
David
2002sheds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2018, 12:58 PM   #231
NO HUMBLE OPINION
 
ALUMINUMINUM's Avatar

 
1968 20' Globetrotter
ANN ARBOR , THE GREAT LAKES
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 566
I never enter the flooring debates. They're not unlike the Ford-Chevy-Dodge, and now add Toyota, discussions. Floors are remarkably personal. Whatever pleases your feet, eyes, vintage, budget, skill, dog… you can make it work.

No one will convince me, that for my trailer, there are better choices. Cabin floor is Hard Maple harvested in Canada, shipped to Finland, engineered into 7-ply, exterior glue, T&G titanium oxided strips, 2 meter x 75mm x 11mm, then shipped to USA. Glued and pin-nailed down, it doesn't move, it's tougher than a bowling alley, and heel strikes have the resonance of wood, so no tic-tac sound of floating fake wood. Many of the two meter strips catch three frame cross-members which add rigidity to the monocoque. The furnishings are fastened to/thru it, I work right on it unprotected, It's harder than my maple workbench, self-heals in a few weeks from dropped hammer dents. It can't tear or chip. Seven years, beautifully tight, no scratches, shines like new, never cleaned it with anything more than a damp paper towel on a Swiffer stick.

I think that it's unpopular because it's more work and thought to install than most mere mortals can muster. People don't think it all the way through, and think it's not “easy”. Actually, it is physically easy. There's a lot of Mental time in the dry-fit, orientation, end match avoiding “H” and “stair”, varying the color selection, numbering the positions… and more. It's an adventurous challenge. People go to great measures to fasten their furnishings over a floating or temperature sensitive plastic floor. Securing base moldings that allow float is tedious. With an engineered glue-down, you just cleat it all to the floor. In the end, time taken is a wash.

As said before "It's Personal". My finished wood puzzle looks good to me.

Bath floor is Pirelli Coin Rubber. Glued field, floating edges.

Definitely not for everyone, If I traveled with a dog, I'd consider the dog's comfort first.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_0098.jpg
Views:	72
Size:	162.1 KB
ID:	329445   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_4063.JPG
Views:	73
Size:	225.4 KB
ID:	329446  

ALUMINUMINUM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2018, 02:22 PM   #232
4 Rivet Member
 
1970 29' Ambassador
Beautiful Santa Rosa , California
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 374
Hi Al,
That floor looks fantastic! I grew up in Wisconsin, so I know how humidity (or severe lack of) can wreak havoc on wood. Do you think that the method of installation helped prevent gaps? Or does the floor expand and contract?
I also love the Pirelli floor in the bath. I am looking into the same route there, if I install engineered hardwood or some other "stick" material forward of the bath.
Was the weight of the floor a consideration in your case?


Thanks,
David
2002sheds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2018, 04:59 PM   #233
NO HUMBLE OPINION
 
ALUMINUMINUM's Avatar

 
1968 20' Globetrotter
ANN ARBOR , THE GREAT LAKES
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 566
“Quoting the Scientists”...


“The average coefficient of hygroscopic expansion or contraction in length and width for plywood panels is about 0.0002 inch per inch for each 10 percent change in equilibrium relative humidity. The total change from oven dry to fiber saturation averages about 0.2 percent.

Total dimensional changes of a 48x96-inch panel exposed to this change in conditions may be expected to average about 0.05 inch across the width and 0.09 inch along the length.

The thermal expansion of wood is much smaller than swelling due to absorption of moisture. Because of this, thermal expansion can be neglected ”



So it's safe to say the engineered plywood expands and contracts along with the subfloor. There's plenty of research for continued study if you're worried.


Wisconsin eh? Well not everyone knows the wet-bath 100F August of the Great Lakes that we know. I acclimated the sticks in the trailer for a summer's month. Seemed wise to install them hot and humid so if they moved, they'd separate instead of buckle. Turns out, they haven't moved an angstrom since 2011. floor is as flat and tight as day one.


Weight-wise here is my reasoning. First of all, I'm a “weight weenie”. I'm determined to keep the GT at its manufactured dry weight of 2990#. I don't recall the exact numbers, but the weight difference between the original 12” vinyl tile and the engineered wood wasn't significant. The wood is a tad heavier, but I've been obsessively conscious of weight in this remodel, and I'm currently cat-scaled at under 3000#. So it's possible to make up for the bit heavier floor. Un-weighting the upper areas, and adding weight in the floor might account for better handling.
ALUMINUMINUM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2018, 05:53 PM   #234
4 Rivet Member
 
1970 29' Ambassador
Beautiful Santa Rosa , California
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 374
Hi Al,
That is great info -- thanks! I do quite a bit of woodworking, and being in relatively dry California for the last 33 years I am oblivious to what humidity does (or doesn't) do...


Thanks,
David
2002sheds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2018, 10:34 AM   #235
4 Rivet Member
 
1970 29' Ambassador
Beautiful Santa Rosa , California
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 374
Hi Al, All,
I have decided to go one of the (perhaps) more perilous routes and use the pristine laminate that is already in my possession. I will take great care to seal all cut edges and to provide room around any fasteners in order to allow for any expansion.

While I completely subscribe to what Alumininum wrote, cost savings won out -- especially after having a conversation with HowieE about his experience with a laminate floor that is somewhat similar to the one I will install.

Add to that the milder climate (fewer giant swings in humidity) and limited range of travel for our coach, and I decided to give it a go.

I will report back with all of my struggles or success as I eventually get to this phase. Thanks for your feedback!


David
2002sheds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-03-2019, 05:11 AM   #236
4 Rivet Member
 
wcronin4's Avatar
 
1978 31' Sovereign
New Smyrna Beach , Florida
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 344
Hi

Read your thread on replacing your bath floor. Curious to know what your experience has been since your last post.

Bill
Florida
78 31 Sovereign
wcronin4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2019, 10:34 PM   #237
4 Rivet Member
 
1970 29' Ambassador
Beautiful Santa Rosa , California
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 374
Hi Bill,
I had typed up an entire response, but now I don't see it...

In case I did not hit the "submit" button, the answer to your question is "not very much progress". I hope to finally slide the plywood in by the end of this week. I will post pictures as I go.


Happy New Year!
David
2002sheds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2019, 08:02 AM   #238
4 Rivet Member
 
1970 29' Ambassador
Beautiful Santa Rosa , California
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 374
Hi Bill, All,
In a startling reminder of why my thread has the words "reality check" in it, I have not had a free moment to work on our Ambassador AT ALL for 3 months. This, despite the fact that we had moved the Airstream so that it was as close to the house as possible. It is super tempting to turn in its direction every time I walk near it, but so many other things have managed to assert themselves ahead of this "job". By the time I get to spend hours at a time working on the Airstream, it will not seem like work at all :-)
Yesterday I was able to sneak in 30 minutes at the end of the day and used that time to (finally) cut the plywood for the bathroom (rear of trailer in our case) floor to shape. My brother is visiting in order to help me with a long list of other tasks, but we had gotten a lot done and he was done for the day. I still had a bit of energy, so...
Now my goal is to jack up the back end slightly (with a step ladder inside the AS and a long beam through the rear window with a vertical pole attached and resting on a floor jack) and slip the subfloor in. I just hope it is not another 3 months until I actually do it...


David
2002sheds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2019, 06:45 PM   #239
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,061
Images: 1
Welcome back. So many of us vintage Airstream enthusiasts end up having to put the Airstream on hold to address higher priority items. Except for us retired geezers who have nothing better to do. : )

A little bit at a time, and it eventually will get done.

Colorado David
__________________
WBCCI #8607
VAC Region 11

Link to my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f17...ml#post2053792

Link to our 1976 Renovation Project:
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f221...ct-202081.html
dbj216 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2019, 10:45 AM   #240
4 Rivet Member
 
1970 29' Ambassador
Beautiful Santa Rosa , California
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 374
Hi Colorado David,
Thanks. I appreciate the feedback! I hope my brother and I will be able to slide the subfloor in. It sounds much easier with 2 people working on it...


Thanks,
California David
__________________

2002sheds is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Another Reality Check! RLS Hitches, Couplers & Balls 24 09-23-2009 11:38 PM
Bathroom ABS repair-Reality check SilverHoot Upholstery, Blinds, Walls & Interior Finishes 1 07-21-2009 10:02 PM
POR15 reality check truckasaurus Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 20 06-07-2009 08:19 AM
Check , Check and Re-Check a new refer saga. thenewkid64 Refrigerators 13 06-24-2002 09:54 AM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:42 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.