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2002sheds · 06-29-2020, 01:04 PM

Hi Kay,
I am also uncomfortable with removing a window, so the layout will either have to accommodate what is there, or I may be quickly abandoning this idea...

I hope to spend a little bit of time on the coach today. That is one aspect that I will be sure to check...

Thanks,
David

dbj216 · 06-29-2020, 07:26 PM

Our 86 Limited has a window in the bath. There is not a window on the opposite side where the wardrobe is. Having a window in the bathroom is something Airstream usually supports. I bet you could design around it some how, same with the wheel well.

David

2002sheds · 06-30-2020, 09:52 PM

Cool, David,
That is what I am seeing in there, too — although I think there is a window in the opposite wall in the same position on ours...

This. Could. Work...!

Thanks,
California David

dbj216 · 07-01-2020, 07:42 PM

Airstream builds a wardrobe closet on either side of that window, and a "dresser" drawers under the window. I have another friend here in the area who has a Sovereign "double bed" layout, rear bath, and it has this configuration. Quite nice actually, but the double bed is small and you have to crawl over each other to get out and get to the bathroom during the night. We prefer twin beds for that reason.

Anyway, with a walk through bath it might give some ideas to you on handling that extra window.

Here is the Airstream floorplan for a double bed Ambassador for your reference.

David

https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...layout-252.pdf

2002sheds · 07-02-2020, 08:01 AM

Hi David,
Thanks! A version of the double bed layout (with help from Chris, Kay and the Greatleys) is what I have been working towards until recently, when the idea of converting to a mid bath reared its head again :-)

The proof will be in the pudding...

Thanks,
David

wcronin4 · 07-03-2020, 06:20 AM

I’m pulling for you. To me, a total redesign, is like the holy grail of redoing one of the relics. Part of the fun of the AS hobby is the challenge of it. Once they are gutted and you start from scratch, it’s like a giant puzzle with many integrated parts all fitting together.

The other cool thing is having folks on the forum off of whom you can bounce ideas.

May the force be with you!

2002sheds · 07-03-2020, 04:14 PM

Hi Bill,
Thanks! You are absolutely correct, and in my case, especially so. I simply could not have even started this crazy project without the wisdom and guidance that has come come this group. Dozens of people have come forward to offer their advice and experiences. One person has been there since day One and deserves a special shout-out... David from Colorado!

This 1970 Ambassador started as a “resto-vation”, since so many original features were there. I still hope to hang onto the spirit of the original, even as I attempt this re-imagining...

I hope you have a Happy 4th !
David

dbj216 · 07-03-2020, 07:19 PM

California David: Thanks for the kind words. There are many vintage Airstream renovators and restorers that are above my head. I enjoy helping where I can, but I am limited. I've never taken a body off the frame like Bill has.

Colorado David

Minno · 07-04-2020, 08:32 AM

We also learned much from other Forum members as we renovated our trailer. We try to pass on our experiences to help others as we were helped.
Happy 4th!!!

Kay

2002sheds · 07-05-2020, 04:41 PM

Hi Kay,
How true! I have learned a TON along the way from you and Chris -- thank you again!
In fact, I am hoping to run a question past the two of you... I picked up some very old redwood fence boards that have really beautiful patina. They are so dry that they feel almost like balsa wood. I would like to use these for the cabinetry in our coach. How can I tell if there is enough "substance" left to be of use for anything but panels? I can cut a piece and see what happens when I try to join it to another piece, but I thought maybe there is a way to know...

Thanks,
California David

2002sheds · 07-05-2020, 07:17 PM

Hi All,
I decided to check for myself. The wood will be fine! Attached is a picture showing 2 cut pieces next to 2 that were cut and joined using a Kreg Jig and screws. Woo hoo!

California David

Bubba L · 07-05-2020, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2002sheds

Hi All,
I decided to check for myself. The wood will be fine! Attached is a picture showing 2 cut pieces next to 2 that were cut and joined using a Kreg Jig and screws. Woo hoo!

California David

David, that looks really good. I used some cypress for the cabinet structure in the 55 because it stained similar to the birch. It’s very soft fibered, but structural. After making a couple of pocket joints that didn’t hold well, I realized I wasn’t using the course thread Kreg screws for soft wood. Live and learn. Looks like you skipped my mistake step. Keep the good work coming.

Minno · 07-06-2020, 08:13 AM

I think as long as it holds together with a screw, you'd be good. Of course, I'm the quilter, not the woodworker of the family except for varnishing everything.... But, it looks solid to me! Chris says should be good.

Kay

2002sheds · 07-06-2020, 04:20 PM

Hi Kay,
Thanks! It looks okay, so far. Next will be a test of how to keep the patina while cleaning the surface of at least some of the dirt...

California David

2002sheds · 07-11-2020, 07:33 PM

Hi All,
Things took a little twist today, back towards the floor and frame.

The subfloor just inside the entry has been gone since before we purchased the coach, and there is about 3 sticks of caulk slopped around the skysight, mid and lower window next to the door, along with a subfloor that is less than perfect.

In my cleaning up of the area just inside the door, I noticed that the subfloor did not extend past the wall in the area beneath the stack of windows. Below are three pics. If I am not mistaken, the entire area has been riveted with Olympic rivets. That is usually a sign that the area has been worked on, correct?

Also, check out the “nibbled” end of the C channel where it meets the door. It looks as if someone used a drill to remove a small amount at a time and then tear the rest off.

I am guessing that there should be subfloor beneath that channel. Yes?

Thanks,
California David

wcronin4 · 07-12-2020, 05:16 AM

David - i believe you’re correct. The subfloor should extend underneath the channel. It appears that a repair was made. I had the same situation under my stack of windows next to the front door.

Replacing the floor there is challenging and your PO took a short cut. You, have the opportunity to fix it properly.

How many places in your floor require repair? And where are they located?

2002sheds · 07-12-2020, 07:37 AM

Hi Bill,
Thanks for the reply! And thanks for the advice. I thought that, in addition to the rear subfloor section, that I only needed to replace this area. Now I will be looking carefully at the rest of the subfloor — especially since this work seems to have been done by a shop, yet they did not do the work as completely as they should have.

In the section of wall that I am working on, two of the elevator bolts and three wood screws were still there in the C channel — rusted in placed, but surrounded by nothing, since the plywood was gone.

The whole area moved in and out, and moved even more when the elevator bolts were cut.

It seems to me that the C channel should be pretty much a continuous band all the way around the shell, interrupted only by the entry door and maybe the hot water heater (although I don’t know this, as our heater was gone and only a gaping hole remained). Does that seem correct to you?

Thanks,
California David

2002sheds · 07-12-2020, 05:03 PM

Hi All,
Upon further review, I found more subfloor that doesn't extend all the way out towards the shell. In total, it is a little over 6 feet by 1.5 feet that will be replaced. The shell (and even door frame pulled outward by about 1/2 inch, according to the holes in the door frame that attach to the coach main frame).

Even more "interesting" is the huge number of Olympic rivets that I have found -- all on the entry door side of this coach. I included a few pictures to hopefully have someone out there verify that I am identifying these correctly, since the inner skins are only off in a few places. I am identifying the first two as Olympic and the last two rivets as buck rivets.

Last, but not least are the two C channel areas that have been cut through, and the giant sheet metal screw that holds the lower awning bracket. It used to go into wood, but after I remove the approximately 5 pounds of caulk will be removed until the subfloor is replaced.

1 step forward 3 back...
California David

Landshark · 07-13-2020, 10:13 AM

[QUOTE=...1 step forward 3 back...
California David[/QUOTE]

California David, "1 step forward and three back" seems to be the formula for life, much less restoring ancient Airstreams. But as others have commented, at least discovering these issues gives you the chance to do it right this time, and give this great Airstream another chance to live a long and distinguished life in your custodianship and beyond.

Keep up the good work!

Vivian

2002sheds · 07-13-2020, 11:37 AM

Hi Vivian,
So true... I just need to keep reminding myself of that (the stewardship) as the sweat pours down my nose and the mouse droppings rain down upon me :-)

Have a Good One!
California David