|
|
08-03-2012, 06:59 PM
|
#461
|
Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wabbiteer
|
I dont think Alumiprep 33 can be used on my sand cast aluminum frame, but I could be wrong. It does work on aluminum sheet quite nicely though.
|
|
|
08-20-2012, 10:13 PM
|
#462
|
Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
|
Finally got the door frame back from my welder. Thankfully it wasent 107 in my driveway so I was able to rebuild my outer door.
|
|
|
08-20-2012, 11:25 PM
|
#463
|
4 Rivet Member
1958 22' Flying Cloud
Folsom
, California
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 468
|
Shut the front door! It's back together! Lookin good.
|
|
|
08-21-2012, 12:16 AM
|
#464
|
Site Team
1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa
, ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,219
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by marzboy
Lunadog
I actually borrowed the idea from Aarowood.
|
I think you'll find that kip is Aerowood. But I could be wrong...
__________________
“Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.” ...John Wayne...........................
|
|
|
08-21-2012, 05:54 AM
|
#465
|
Rivet Master
1957 22' Caravanner
1960 26' Overlander
1963 24' Tradewind
El Paso
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 945
|
Very nice!
|
|
|
08-21-2012, 08:13 AM
|
#466
|
Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,527
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aage
I think you'll find that kip is Aerowood. But I could be wrong...
|
Kip / Aerowood, same same
|
|
|
08-21-2012, 10:36 AM
|
#467
|
Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
|
Thanks guys, it was more time consuming than hard. Off to Homo Depo for a few parts. I need to clean up my dead bolt and front door lock. BTW does anyone know how to remove the lock cylinders? I need to replace and re key.
ps sorry about the typo Kip aka Aerowood. Thanks for the great step by step on the door. I tried to take out the door pin but its was a bit too out of my ability.
|
|
|
08-21-2012, 10:46 AM
|
#468
|
3 Rivet Member
salzburg
, salzburg
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 123
|
great job on the door, this is the next part of my project, i'm going to follow Kips lead fairly closely although my door pins are o'k with very little play (one thing on this trailer that's not broke!!) but i will be putting a new K.TZ lock in and reinforcing with a couple of stringers, did you re sheet the whole door just with one piece of Ally?
|
|
|
08-21-2012, 01:39 PM
|
#469
|
Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgreen
great job on the door, this is the next part of my project, i'm going to follow Kips lead fairly closely although my door pins are o'k with very little play (one thing on this trailer that's not broke!!) but i will be putting a new K.TZ lock in and reinforcing with a couple of stringers, did you re sheet the whole door just with one piece of Ally?
|
Thank you, it was a lot of work but it came out nice. If I were you I wouldnt remove the main door pin if you dont have to. It is a pretty big PITA. I did replace the front with a new sheet of 2024 t3 I plan to replace the rear with a whole piece of 5052. Post some pics of your door!
|
|
|
08-21-2012, 10:16 PM
|
#470
|
Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
|
Got the other side done. I insulated with two layers of Prodex and skinned the inside with 5052 .032. Now I hope to hang the door this weekend. I ordered new door hardwear should be here later this week.
|
|
|
08-29-2012, 10:52 AM
|
#471
|
3 Rivet Member
salzburg
, salzburg
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 123
|
wow looking good, i will post pics of mine but not really much to see outside of the frame!!, i'm replacing my skin due to corrossion in the bottonm half and a new trimark door latch going in, so far i've cleaned up the frame, removed enough material from the door frame to mount the new lockset in their and have it reach through and lock!!, the question i have is when i look at Kips he seems to have two stringers, one is definately riveted in and the other is either floating or welded,, what have you done? i'm thinking of welding in two stringers above and below the lockset to give it strength in that area, tomorrow i'm pickiing up my aluminium for the door which is M3? as far as i can make out it's pretty firm stuff so will probably need to roll it a bit for it to hold a nice shape and it's meant to polish well?? no idea i will find out tomorrow
|
|
|
08-29-2012, 08:49 PM
|
#472
|
Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgreen
wow looking good, i will post pics of mine but not really much to see outside of the frame!!, i'm replacing my skin due to corrossion in the bottonm half and a new trimark door latch going in, so far i've cleaned up the frame, removed enough material from the door frame to mount the new lockset in their and have it reach through and lock!!, the question i have is when i look at Kips he seems to have two stringers, one is definately riveted in and the other is either floating or welded,, what have you done? i'm thinking of welding in two stringers above and below the lockset to give it strength in that area, tomorrow i'm pickiing up my aluminium for the door which is M3? as far as i can make out it's pretty firm stuff so will probably need to roll it a bit for it to hold a nice shape and it's meant to polish well?? no idea i will find out tomorrow
|
I like the idea of welding to pieces of metal to the door frame. I didn't do it because I just wanted my door frame back from the welder. I didn't have the bargman l100 latch like a lot of the mid 60s trailers. I have a Westlock dead bolt and a Weisner door knob. I had to go to an old school locksmith to find the guts for my hardware. Your outer skin for the door is 2024 t3 aluminum. I went with the .032 thickness. It is tempered an should pleanty ridged. I didn't have to roll it to get a good shape. I just clamped drilled clecoed and buck riveted. I will probably hang the door in a couple weeks. Any one with any pointers on how to properly hang a door please chime in!
|
|
|
08-30-2012, 02:50 PM
|
#473
|
4 Rivet Member
1964 30' Sovereign
Porum
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 421
|
34 pages and half a day later I finally read the whole thread. Excellent work and it makes me feel like I am really cutting corners by attempting a shell-on restoration on mine. Unfortunately I don't have the space, time, or other resources to go to the great lengths that you have. I wish I could. That AS will probably last you the rest of your life and probably your kids lives.
Great work!!!
|
|
|
08-31-2012, 08:24 AM
|
#474
|
Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by colberjs
34 pages and half a day later I finally read the whole thread. Excellent work and it makes me feel like I am really cutting corners by attempting a shell-on restoration on mine. Unfortunately I don't have the space, time, or other resources to go to the great lengths that you have. I wish I could. That AS will probably last you the rest of your life and probably your kids lives.
Great work!!!
|
Thank you! I just went over your thread and you are doing good. Just dont get too hung up on the whole project. I sat down and made a list of micro projects. Then I seperated the tasks by inportance and little projects that I could do when funds were low. Once I had a decent plan of attack I dug in. I think the big relief was when I got the shell back down on the frame. Its an Elephant sandwich take small bites.
|
|
|
09-12-2012, 12:09 AM
|
#475
|
Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
|
Finally got the door back on today. It was a little tough but I got thru it. Big thanks to Kenny P for bucking those rivets with me.
|
|
|
10-08-2012, 09:32 PM
|
#476
|
Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
|
Minor set back # 1007 door frame broke again! Arrrrgggggg!! So I tore the door down to the frame again, had my welder repair the crack again. There must have been some stress on the frame that cracked it. So this time after I got the frame back I set it in the door way braced it with clamps and heated it with my blow torch. Then very carefully tighten the clamps til the door frame mached the curve of the trailer. I finished Bucking the outer skin to the frame today. While I was waiting for the frame to be welded I started on the inner skins so that I can figure out the outlets and switches.
|
|
|
10-09-2012, 05:38 AM
|
#477
|
Rivet Master
1954 25' Cruiser
Currently Looking...
Cruisin
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 683
|
Bummer on the door frame but good you jumped on the repair right away so you weren't looking at the crack for a long time! Inside skins going back in!! That's fun, are you replacing all the interior metal? That saves a lot of stripping time and not breathing in all the chemicals! You will be camping in the spring!!
|
|
|
10-09-2012, 08:34 AM
|
#478
|
Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by tinman54
Bummer on the door frame but good you jumped on the repair right away so you weren't looking at the crack for a long time! Inside skins going back in!! That's fun, are you replacing all the interior metal? That saves a lot of stripping time and not breathing in all the chemicals! You will be camping in the spring!!
|
Ah tinman you have a lot of faith in my progress. Not sure I will be camping this spring at this rate. The door frames are crap at best. Unfortunatly heat from welding makes them tweak and pressure from closeing makes them break. I think I got it this time (hope). Yes I am putting in all new metal in the interior. Expensive yes but the walls that were in before were a mess.
|
|
|
10-09-2012, 11:46 AM
|
#479
|
3 Rivet Member
salzburg
, salzburg
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 123
|
Sorry to hear about the door, i am re skinning mine at the moment it looks as though the top curve has been welded onto mine unless that's standard?, I got the aluminium strips welded across it to give it strength around the lockset, i hope i don't get problems with it! , re cladding the walls must be a great feeling, my next step is cutting a serving hatch, I will take a few photos and update my thread tomorrow!
|
|
|
10-09-2012, 11:53 AM
|
#480
|
Airstream Fanatic
1976 31' Sovereign
1959 17' Pacer
1965 26' Overlander
Bismarck
, North Dakota
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,035
|
Persistence over pain!
Quote:
Originally Posted by marzboy
Minor set back # 1007 door frame broke again! Arrrrgggggg!! So I tore the door down to the frame again, had my welder repair the crack again. There must have been some stress on the frame that cracked it. So this time after I got the frame back I set it in the door way braced it with clamps and heated it with my blow torch. Then very carefully tighten the clamps til the door frame mached the curve of the trailer. I finished Bucking the outer skin to the frame today. While I was waiting for the frame to be welded I started on the inner skins so that I can figure out the outlets and switches.
|
Yet another example of persistence over pain and frustration! Love the photos to see your progress.
Sandy
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|