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03-14-2012, 03:53 PM
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#321
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Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
"There are tow types of people. Those that can weld and everyone else"
Jesse James
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What about those of us that think they can weld?
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03-14-2012, 03:57 PM
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#322
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Restorations done right
Commercial Member
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore
, Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,545
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Did you find an excuse to get the welder out today? Wait till you start the Zolatone, you get to try a whole new set of tooling there too!
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03-15-2012, 10:11 AM
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#323
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Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
Did you find an excuse to get the welder out today? Wait till you start the Zolatone, you get to try a whole new set of tooling there too!
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No damn it, I did not! And I am not doing Zolatone.
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03-15-2012, 10:55 PM
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#324
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Rivet Master
1975 Argosy 26
1963 24' Tradewind
Seattle
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,341
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You guys crack me up!
Marz, you need a compressor.... just saying....
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03-15-2012, 11:55 PM
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#325
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Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
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Marc are you offering one up?
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03-19-2012, 10:55 PM
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#326
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Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
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Got started on the insulation today. Very tedious lots of measuring and cutting poly iso. I originally used 1/4" Styrofoam but the glue I was using melted it. So I had to strip out half of the trailer and start over. Bummer.
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03-20-2012, 06:16 AM
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#327
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Airstream Fanatic
1976 31' Sovereign
1959 17' Pacer
1965 26' Overlander
Bismarck
, North Dakota
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,035
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Insulation blues
Quote:
Originally Posted by marzboy
Got started on the insulation today. Very tedious lots of measuring and cutting poly iso. I originally used 1/4" Styrofoam but the glue I was using melted it. So I had to strip out half of the trailer and start over. Bummer.
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Hopefully your insulation journey won't take as long as ours. We spent about six weeks carefully cutting strips of pink rigid insulation, aligning them together, attaching strips of double sided sticky tape, splitting them with a razor and then carefully attaching them to the trailer. Then we carefully cut the bubble insulation and attached it to everything in the trailer. After doing all of that, I almost thought that we had seriously lost our marbles.
Once that is done, there is the entire process of sealing all of the joints with aluminum tape. That took another couple of weeks of free time. So what I am saying is that it all takes a lot of time as each step in this process does. Keep up with the photos and posts. It keeps me motivated and wondering what is wrong with Zolatone
Sandy
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03-20-2012, 08:12 AM
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#328
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Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ND10CentCan
Hopefully your insulation journey won't take as long as ours. We spent about six weeks carefully cutting strips of pink rigid insulation, aligning them together, attaching strips of double sided sticky tape, splitting them with a razor and then carefully attaching them to the trailer. Then we carefully cut the bubble insulation and attached it to everything in the trailer. After doing all of that, I almost thought that we had seriously lost our marbles.
Once that is done, there is the entire process of sealing all of the joints with aluminum tape. That took another couple of weeks of free time. So what I am saying is that it all takes a lot of time as each step in this process does. Keep up with the photos and posts. It keeps me motivated and wondering what is wrong with Zolatone
Sandy
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Oh great another super time consuming tedious project. I bought a case of sure bond sealant from Insulation 4 Less where I got my Prodex. That stuff is awsome for glueing the foam stripps to the metal. The big pain for me was measuring and cutting the strips of 1/4 Polyiso. Probably should pick up some double sided tape from HD this morning.
There is nothing wrong with Zolatone. My wife just doesn't like the look of it. Style preference thats all.
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03-20-2012, 02:08 PM
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#329
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1 Rivet Member
1963 30' Sovereign
Vancouver
, British Columbia
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 15
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We are only dreaming about getting this far along - what an amazing job you have done! I am going to spend an evening with a glass of wine reading each page . .
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03-20-2012, 02:34 PM
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#330
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Rivet Master
1959 17' Pacer
Long Beach
, California
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marzboy
Oh great another super time consuming tedious project. I bought a case of sure bond sealant from Insulation 4 Less where I got my Prodex. That stuff is awsome for glueing the foam stripps to the metal. The big pain for me was measuring and cutting the strips of 1/4 Polyiso. Probably should pick up some double sided tape from HD this morning.
There is nothing wrong with Zolatone. My wife just doesn't like the look of it. Style preference thats all.
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Sounds like it's coming along pretty fast nonetheless. You have very nicely cut edges on that foam. Are you using a heated blade? Mine looked like someone tore a cake in half (and left the crumbs everywhere), while yours looks like a precision-cut wedding cake.
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03-20-2012, 04:04 PM
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#331
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Restorations done right
Commercial Member
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore
, Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,545
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Javi, can you tell me the model of AC you used? How high is it off the roof?
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03-20-2012, 08:02 PM
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#332
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Airstream Fanatic
1976 31' Sovereign
1959 17' Pacer
1965 26' Overlander
Bismarck
, North Dakota
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,035
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Style and precision
Quote:
Originally Posted by marzboy
Oh great another super time consuming tedious project. I bought a case of sure bond sealant from Insulation 4 Less where I got my Prodex. That stuff is awsome for glueing the foam stripps to the metal. The big pain for me was measuring and cutting the strips of 1/4 Polyiso. Probably should pick up some double sided tape from HD this morning.
There is nothing wrong with Zolatone. My wife just doesn't like the look of it. Style preference thats all.
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I think your way will work just fine. Seems like everyone decides to do things a bit differently depending upon what they feel comfortable with and what materials are available. Our material selection is pretty tight but we try to make it work with what we can locate. Thanks for keeping this updated. It is always fun to see what people have been spending their waking hours doing and it makes us feel less like the total trailer geeks we have turned into.
Sandy
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03-20-2012, 10:57 PM
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#333
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Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
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@ LunaDog Thank you I am so glad to be done with the floor/frame. Love your shop, if I had that I would never go back in my house!
@ Peter I just used a regular blade nothing special. I had to change the blade several times though.
@ Frank I went with the Penguin II not sure how high it sits but it is a hell of a lot lower ( and lighter ) than the oem a/c
@ Sandy I have a stock pile of parts with a lot of little jobs to keep me busy for quite sometime. No rest for the wicked!
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03-20-2012, 11:09 PM
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#334
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Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
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Done with the foam blocking on the interior walls. I used the Metal Bond adhesive that they sell at Insulation 4 Less. That is the stickiest glue ever. It made the installation of the foam strips a snap. Also got to the rear lights. Cut the holes and finished the preliminary bondo on the light housings. My friend Kenny is making a mold of his lights hope they come out good. The way mine look I may need new ones, bondo and glassing aren't my thing.
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03-21-2012, 11:15 AM
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#335
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2 Rivet Member
1968 26' Overlander
West Richland
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 61
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Man you've made a lot of progress and its looking great. Have you picked a tail/stop/turn light out yet? Led? or back to original?
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03-21-2012, 12:35 PM
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#336
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Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
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JimandPj
Hi I have the lights already. I went with the original light bulb look. I am not crazy about the look of LED but to each his own
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03-21-2012, 01:38 PM
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#337
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Restorations done right
Commercial Member
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore
, Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,545
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marzboy
JimandPj
Hi I have the lights already. I went with the original light bulb look. I am not crazy about the look of LED but to each his own
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I thought I was the only one...
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03-21-2012, 04:08 PM
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#338
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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The looks of LED clearance and tail lights, is way down the list.
What is in first place, however, is SAFETY.
Every one admits that the LED lights are brighter in the daylight than the bulb type lights are at night.
It's not really what we see as the owner, it's most importantly what the person driving behind us see's, especially at night and also on streets or highways that do not have any street lights.
Safety, should never, ever, take a back seat.
Who might be behind you???? Maybe someone using a cell phone, or heaven forbid, TEXTING.
Think about it, for just a tiny moment.
Andy
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03-21-2012, 05:25 PM
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#339
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Restorations done right
Commercial Member
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore
, Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,545
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Andy,
I am sorry, but on a vintage trailer they simply look horrible.
Yes, they are brighter.
The brighterness(purposeful misspelling) of them is what makes them so out of place on the vintageness.
If someone is distracted texting they are going to hit you. No amount of brightness is going to change that.
If safety is the only concern, I would avoid getting on the road. It is a proven fact that "on the road" is what kills most Americans.
Nothing annoys me more than driving behind a vehicle with LED lights and one or more diodes in the light as dead. It is not a simple, remove the lens, replace the $1.09 bulb, and put the lens back. The whole unit must be replaced. Screws removed, fixtures removed, re sealed, larger screws because the old ones were torqued too much, all leading to more work and more chances of a leak you will not detect till too late.
I am sorry to differ, but for me personally, it is bulb style.
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03-21-2012, 05:49 PM
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#340
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
Andy,
I am sorry, but on a vintage trailer they simply look horrible.
Yes, they are brighter.
The brighterness(purposeful misspelling) of them is what makes them so out of place on the vintageness.
If someone is distracted texting they are going to hit you. No amount of brightness is going to change that.
If safety is the only concern, I would avoid getting on the road. It is a proven fact that "on the road" is what kills most Americans.
Nothing annoys me more than driving behind a vehicle with LED lights and one or more diodes in the light as dead. It is not a simple, remove the lens, replace the $1.09 bulb, and put the lens back. The whole unit must be replaced. Screws removed, fixtures removed, re sealed, larger screws because the old ones were torqued too much, all leading to more work and more chances of a leak you will not detect till too late.
I am sorry to differ, but for me personally, it is bulb style.
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frank.
You do indeed have some valid points.
Our findings so far at least, indicate that the el-cheapo LED's indeed have partial failures, which defeats the real purpose.
We strive, very hard to stay away from marginal products.
Perhaps my views on "being seen" are a little different than most, since I have over 700 hours of night time flying, as the pilot.
Trust me, I am game for being well seen at night, especially in the sky.
Andy
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