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12-04-2011, 08:35 PM
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#201
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Airstream Fanatic
1976 31' Sovereign
1959 17' Pacer
1965 26' Overlander
Bismarck
, North Dakota
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,035
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Don't you have to wonder?
Quote:
Originally Posted by marzboy
Started the rear panel replacement today. funny what you discover when you start pulling panels off. In this case i found a really crappy patch job. They didn't even use sealant, which allowed water to intrude. I have the lower street side panel off. Tomorrow I will fabricate and replace both lower panels
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I agree with your assessment. The previous PO repairs are always a source of entertainment when you pull them apart and say to yourself "What in the world were they thinking?" We discovered this when we found a two by four holding up the rear black tank because the entire rear end had rotted apart.
Keep up the good work.
Sandy
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12-04-2011, 11:47 PM
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#202
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Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ND10CentCan
I agree with your assessment. The previous PO repairs are always a source of entertainment when you pull them apart and say to yourself "What in the world were they thinking?" We discovered this when we found a two by four holding up the rear black tank because the entire rear end had rotted apart.
Keep up the good work.
Sandy
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Wow! Thats pretty ghetto.
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12-05-2011, 12:05 AM
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#203
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Rivet Master
1975 Argosy 26
1963 24' Tradewind
Seattle
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,341
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What was that hole from? Kinda weird! Look at this way.. your polishing time is going to be cut by a few hours now!
Marc
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12-05-2011, 08:19 AM
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#204
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Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy
What was that hole from? Kinda weird! Look at this way.. your polishing time is going to be cut by a few hours now!
Marc
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Ha! I hope it doesnt take that long to polish that tiny area! Not sure what that hole is from but its getting patched today for good I will post pics today.
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12-05-2011, 02:09 PM
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#205
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Rivet Master
1975 Argosy 26
1963 24' Tradewind
Seattle
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,341
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Oh! I thought you were replacing the whole bottom half of the trailer aluminum. Forgive me... yes, your polishing time will not decrease by much! Kidding!
Marc
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12-05-2011, 02:57 PM
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#206
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Rivet Master
1973 27' Overlander
Currently Looking...
Jupiter
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,062
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Anything matching on the interior? If'n one were trying to hide the evidence of a mouse - cricket hunt, errr, I mean purely accidental 12-Gauge shotgun discharge, that'd be the near the size needed to be cut away to erase the crater...
I had a wrap patch covering shredded aluminum beneath the refrigerator... really, really looked like a perfect fuel-air mix had ignited and flower-petaled out the wraps. Joe Somewhen just pushed the six or seven razor-edge knife-shaped shreds up and slapped 3-feet of new aluminum over it.. Maybe from back in the day when M-80's or Ashcans were still around?
__________________
The days are short and the night is long and the stars go tumbling by.. . ~Airstream~
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12-05-2011, 05:04 PM
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#207
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Rivet Master
1959 17' Pacer
Long Beach
, California
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 920
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We should start a blog - the images of how NOT to repair your trailer.
In my own case, I've got a few horrible patches with 1/8" thick aluminum screwed on with at least 4 types of rivets and screws each. And that's not an exaggeration. There was one 4" square patch that had 9 holes and 4 types of fasteners. 1/8" pop rivets, 5/32" Olympics, hex-head machine screws (rusted), and two SS 1/4-20 bolts!!!
The vent holes looked like they had been cut by repeatedly stabbing the skin with a hunting knife, and were covered with a mix of silicon and butyl tape followed by big-box store home vents (using 4 types of fasteners of course).
My personal favorite is the entry door and the repair of a big gash. It's not even a suicide door style, so they must have run against some metal sign or something. It involves 2 pounds of Bondo followed by painting the ENTIRE DOOR. luckily the paint did not stick to the aluminum very well and is mostly gone everywhere except for the rock solid Bondo.
However, as sad as I am about those aspects of the PO, at least he tried. He certainly kept the water out-- my frame had virtually no issues after 50 years.
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12-06-2011, 09:15 AM
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#208
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Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
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@ Marc No worries I even get confused when I look at my trailer.
@ Wabbiteer Ouch!! That sounds a little dangerous. Just a little more $$ right?
@ Peter Thats is a great idea! Better yet a new thread, Show us your bad patch jobs and how you fixed em. I'm serious! That would be pretty helpful and encouraging. Judging by your last comment you could probably fill a few pages
Well guys I got a panel up on the rear street side and my first major mistake. I cut the panel and got the writing on the outside! Crap! I just have it fastened with clecos so I can flip it to the other side, but it was a PITA to get in. It should buff out right ?
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12-06-2011, 09:33 AM
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#209
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Rivet Master
1959 17' Pacer
Long Beach
, California
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marzboy
Well guys I got a panel up on the rear street side and my first major mistake. I cut the panel and got the writing on the outside! Crap! I just have it fastened with clecos so I can flip it to the other side, but it was a PITA to get in. It should buff out right ?
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You're talking about the red ink that says "ALCLAD....etc"? That buffed right out for me when I made that same goof on my water inlet panel, and in fact I think some of it came off with mineral spirits when I was cleaning up the Vulkem on the edge with a rag.
I wouldn't worry too much about it. You could have done much worse, like cutting it one inch too short...
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12-06-2011, 06:45 PM
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#210
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Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by worldinchaos
You're talking about the red ink that says "ALCLAD....etc"? That buffed right out for me when I made that same goof on my water inlet panel, and in fact I think some of it came off with mineral spirits when I was cleaning up the Vulkem on the edge with a rag.
I wouldn't worry too much about it. You could have done much worse, like cutting it one inch too short...
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Whew! I have been stressing out about that. Getting that panel is was a biaaaacchh! Thank God that I got the measurements right I bought enough metal to replace the rear panels and a couple patches,
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12-13-2011, 09:08 PM
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#211
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Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
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With all the holidays work and bad weather I haven't got much done. But I got the lower curb side panel and quarter panel fabricated drilled and clecoed. So crazy that there are about a million tiny jobs to do before you can do the big ones!
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12-28-2011, 08:46 AM
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#212
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Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
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Ok with a couple hours here and there I finally got all the fabricating, sealing and buck riveting done! Boy life can sure get in the way of fun. I also did a few Olympic rivets in a spot that I couldn't buck.
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12-28-2011, 09:33 AM
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#213
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3 Rivet Member
salzburg
, salzburg
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 123
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wow that's looking great but that in your hand isn't an olympic rivet is it? i thought they had three legs!
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12-28-2011, 09:50 AM
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#214
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Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgreen
wow that's looking great but that in your hand isn't an olympic rivet is it? i thought they had three legs!
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That is an olympic that has not been pulled. Once it is inserted and pulled the "legs" will pop out. If you zoom in on the first pic you can kind of see them. They are pretty solid, more than I thought they would be. In fact I believe if they are used properly they should hold up pretty well. Here is a pic of the curb side complete.
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01-08-2012, 10:13 PM
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#215
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1 Rivet Member
1967 30' Sovereign
Saint Augustine
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 11
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Does anyone know of a template or drawing for a 67 sovreign rear bath frame support. Most of the rear frame under the bathroom is gone. I rigged a temorary fix to tow the newly purchased trailer home but need to know what metals thickness and design were originally used so I can duplicate it rather than guessing. Thanks John in South Carolina
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01-09-2012, 08:21 AM
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#216
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Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JGS
Does anyone know of a template or drawing for a 67 sovreign rear bath frame support. Most of the rear frame under the bathroom is gone. I rigged a temorary fix to tow the newly purchased trailer home but need to know what metals thickness and design were originally used so I can duplicate it rather than guessing. Thanks John in South Carolina
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Hi John
Not sure what you mean by support but my bath/ shower had styrofoam under it and a frame rail inder the sink. Most of my bath was missing when I got her. If you are talking about the trailer frame itself it is the same as the rest. Pretty much looks like a ladder. Mine was missing too and had to be rebuilt. Post pics and maybe start a new thread in the appropriate forum I'm sure your question will be answered. Good luck!
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01-09-2012, 09:44 PM
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#217
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Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
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Got a bit done this week. Got the street side banana wrap riveted, that was surprisingly difficult. Also I rebuilt one of my windows. I had to replace four pieces of glass (two windows two fixed). Let me tell you, if you can rehab your windows without removing the glass do it. Replacing the glass is not easy. But the guy at the glass shop gave me a neat trick. Lightly mist the glass with window cleaner before you set it in the butyl tape. It gives you a little more time to reset the glass in case you don't set it right.
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01-14-2012, 08:33 AM
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#218
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2 Rivet Member
2015 20' Flying Cloud
Brandon
, Manitoba
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JGS
Does anyone know of a template or drawing for a 67 sovreign rear bath frame support. Most of the rear frame under the bathroom is gone. I rigged a temorary fix to tow the newly purchased trailer home but need to know what metals thickness and design were originally used so I can duplicate it rather than guessing. Thanks John in South Carolina
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I have a 68 sovereign with the floor off. I guess it may be similar. I have some photos on my thread that you may be able to make some detail out of, they were taken with my phone so they're not great.
I'm away from home right now so I can't get you any better ones, but from memory the two main frame rails go all the way back to an upside down u channel under the very rear of the shell (the shell is bolted to this). There are a couple of sections added underneath the main rails to form skid rails in case you bounce your tail in the floor. The black tank sits between the two rails under the floor. Either side there are outriggers about 18" or 2' further back than the last full width crossmember. Each of these is a solid triangle with the edges rolled over. Metal is the same thickness as elsewhere.
Pretty much you can look at the front and it's the same, but without the bits for the tongue... I'll try to get some decent photos when I'm at the trailer next..
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01-17-2012, 11:54 PM
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#219
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Tool Hoarder
Currently Looking...
West
, California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
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After three days of dealing with my windows I have learned:
1) Silicone sucks!
2) I am defiantly not a detail person
3) Glass is rarely salvageable
4) It is always much worse than you thought.
So I have two windows complete out of ten (complete with bulb seal), one picture window in out of three installed, four broken frames re welded, five windows siliconed so bad I had to clean each frame three times, all window openings cleaned and prepped for window install and went thru 50' of glazing tape and almost all of my glazing strips. Oh and be careful pressing that glazing strip in to the outside for the window frame. My hands and thumbs are pretty sore!
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01-18-2012, 05:12 AM
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#220
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Rivet Master
1954 25' Cruiser
Currently Looking...
Cruisin
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marzboy
After three days of dealing with my windows I have learned:
1) Silicone sucks!
2) I am defiantly not a detail person
3) Glass is rarely salvageable
4) It is always much worse than you thought.
So I have two windows complete out of ten (complete with bulb seal), one picture window in out of three installed, four broken frames re welded, five windows siliconed so bad I had to clean each frame three times, all window openings cleaned and prepped for window install and went thru 50' of glazing tape and almost all of my glazing strips. Oh and be careful pressing that glazing strip in to the outside for the window frame. My hands and thumbs are pretty sore!
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I will second all of your points!!! I was pretty tired of windows by the time I was done. Your frames are cleaning up very nice. I also got some of those cleaning wheels like you have on the drill but they didn't seem to do anything for me? I like watching your progress.
I really hate silicone and black tar
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