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Old 05-31-2012, 06:31 AM   #401
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Electrical

Hi-Looks like you are doing great! My two cents worth, I would use stranded instead of solid wire wherever possible. Stranded is actually more effecient in carrying power, and much less likely to break due to vibration. More strands the better. Keep up the good work.-Rolland
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:16 AM   #402
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Sorry to dissapoint you prowelder, I'm just really stuck on the location of the outlets switches etc. I am just abit too OCD for my own good.
Thanks for the advice guys. I have gone with the stranded wire (romex) and I ordered some 14 awg stranded duplex (black and white insulated) wire for the 12v. Hope its here this weekend.
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Old 05-31-2012, 04:55 PM   #403
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12V DC is much more susceptible to voltage drop in the wires than AC. This is due to resistance in the conductors. The voltage drop becomes greater with higher current draws. If you're running low wattage stuff like LED lights, 14ga is probably OK. If you're running higher power devices like a DC fridge, 14ga ain't gonna cut it. So the point is to plan your DC loads and wire accordingly. The fuses you use will fall into this plan as well. The intent of fuses is to protect the wire from overheating.
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Old 05-31-2012, 04:59 PM   #404
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By the way, You're doing a great job. This thread is inspiring.
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Old 05-31-2012, 06:34 PM   #405
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Me too!

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Originally Posted by marzboy View Post
Yes thank God! Everytime I see some poor soul thats just starting with the gutting phase, I feel a little sick.
I laughed when I read this post. Even responded to it awhile back and somehow cyberspace lost it. I was thinking the same thing when someone gets a vintage trailer but realized I was really laughing at myself. I think it is kind of like giving birth; luckily you don't remember it all that well and think it wasn't so bad. Thank heavens for poor recall.
Sandy
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Old 06-01-2012, 08:22 AM   #406
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12V DC is much more susceptible to voltage drop in the wires than AC. This is due to resistance in the conductors. The voltage drop becomes greater with higher current draws. If you're running low wattage stuff like LED lights, 14ga is probably OK. If you're running higher power devices like a DC fridge, 14ga ain't gonna cut it. So the point is to plan your DC loads and wire accordingly. The fuses you use will fall into this plan as well. The intent of fuses is to protect the wire from overheating.
Thanks Starman the 14awg is going to be for all lights 12v outlets and 12v fans etc. I am going with a 2 way fridge. The RV tec that I am using as a consultant said that 14 awg stranded in the big trailers and would be sufficient. I am going to pre wire for an inverter just in case I want one in the future.
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Old 06-01-2012, 08:23 AM   #407
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I laughed when I read this post. Even responded to it awhile back and somehow cyberspace lost it. I was thinking the same thing when someone gets a vintage trailer but realized I was really laughing at myself. I think it is kind of like giving birth; luckily you don't remember it all that well and think it wasn't so bad. Thank heavens for poor recall.
Sandy
Haha Sandy I hope giving birth is not as painful as gutting a trailer. At least you get drugs to ease the pain of child birth!
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Old 06-01-2012, 08:31 AM   #408
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I never thought about it, but airstream restoration really is a lot like giving birth. Just with a much much longer labor.... Beautiful work!
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:58 PM   #409
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Clue #497 that I my be A.D.D
As I was working on the wiring I decided to take a beer break. But instead of going back to the wireing I removed my door
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Old 06-03-2012, 11:24 PM   #410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marzboy
Clue #497 that I my be A.D.D
As I was working on the wiring I decided to take a beer break. But instead of going back to the wireing I removed my door
Well that thar is yer problem. You gots a crack in your door, son!

Is that an aluminum channel that you can "just" replace with pre-fabbed stock, or do you have to get an aluminum welder?
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Old 06-03-2012, 11:50 PM   #411
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Hurry up and get the door fixed. Throw your sleeping bags in your trailer and lets go. all the best, Kenny
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:19 AM   #412
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@ Peter I have to have it welded. But I have a great Aluminum welder who can do it.
@ Kenny this would have never happened if you hadnt come over!
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:15 AM   #413
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Wiring

Glad to see you are working on the wiring! Get the door fixed then have your wife lock you inside and not let you out till the wiring is done Only wiring supplies inside with you so you don't get distracted by something else!

Keep in mind where you may be cutting things through the wall like the water heater or?? By the time I got that far I couldn't remember if there were wires there but luckily I was ok. Take good pictures after you are done wiring so when after the interior skins are on you can look back if there is a question on where the wires are.

I definitely have the same problem of concentration.
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Old 06-04-2012, 01:39 PM   #414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinman54
Keep in mind where you may be cutting things through the wall like the water heater or?? By the time I got that far I couldn't remember if there were wires there but luckily I was ok. Take good pictures after you are done wiring so when after the interior skins are on you can look back if there is a question on where the wires are.
Or, for instance, when cutting through the subfloor, be careful of brake wires. Regardless of how much you protect them, the right drill bit can go through it. Not speaking from recent experience or anything here...
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Old 06-04-2012, 04:15 PM   #415
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14ga.

What's the draw on the lights?

Amps=KW/KV

I think 14ga. is good for about 15amps, but I'm no electrician.

15amps x 0.012= 180 watts (max)

Not sure if this is right (disclaimer), but what would it hurt to run 12ga.

TIMK
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Old 06-04-2012, 06:42 PM   #416
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It's worse

Quote:
Originally Posted by marzboy View Post
Haha Sandy I hope giving birth is not as painful as gutting a trailer. At least you get drugs to ease the pain of child birth!
Ah, that is where you forget I was old school and Norwegian. No drugs, ether, hammers, or alcohol involved in four births and I'd put trailer restoration way behind that pain. Trailer restoration is more frustrating and continuously expensive...wait...kid are frustrating and expensive. Oh, you win.
Sandy
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:14 PM   #417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinman54 View Post
Glad to see you are working on the wiring! Get the door fixed then have your wife lock you inside and not let you out till the wiring is done Only wiring supplies inside with you so you don't get distracted by something else!

Keep in mind where you may be cutting things through the wall like the water heater or?? By the time I got that far I couldn't remember if there were wires there but luckily I was ok. Take good pictures after you are done wiring so when after the interior skins are on you can look back if there is a question on where the wires are.

I definitely have the same problem of concentration.
My wife thinks that I already am locked inside my trailer! I am keeping a pretty good photo log of all the wireing. I am trying to keep the a/c wiring no more than 48" from the floor and the d/c audio video wireing above the windows. That way it is easy to remember where everything is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by worldinchaos View Post
Or, for instance, when cutting through the subfloor, be careful of brake wires. Regardless of how much you protect them, the right drill bit can go through it. Not speaking from recent experience or anything here...
yeah well I already have done something like that too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by REDSLED88 View Post
What's the draw on the lights?

Amps=KW/KV

I think 14ga. is good for about 15amps, but I'm no electrician.

15amps x 0.012= 180 watts (max)

Not sure if this is right (disclaimer), but what would it hurt to run 12ga.

TIMK
I am breaking the d/c lights and outlets into 3 areas bedroom/bath, galley kitchen and livingroom. The fans are each on their own fuse as are the furnace, water pump, stereo, water heater and stove. I am going to run LED lights through out the trailer. I think the brightest burn 3 watts so I should be good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ND10CentCan View Post
Ah, that is where you forget I was old school and Norwegian. No drugs, ether, hammers, or alcohol involved in four births and I'd put trailer restoration way behind that pain. Trailer restoration is more frustrating and continuously expensive...wait...kid are frustrating and expensive. Oh, you win.
Sandy
They are both expensive and even when you are "done" you still have to pay for them!! I could use some drugs!!
Got a bit more electrical done today. Wired up the A/C and the outside outlet. Ran most of the romex and some of the 14awg D/C
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:21 AM   #418
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14ga.

Ahh, I thought you meant all that on one 14ga. circuit....
Oh, you should be good then.

Looks like a good start. Nothing like clean wires boy!

How are you attaching your outside outlet to the shell?

Thanks in advance,
TIMK
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:45 AM   #419
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Ahh, I thought you meant all that on one 14ga. circuit....
Oh, you should be good then.

Looks like a good start. Nothing like clean wires boy!

How are you attaching your outside outlet to the shell?

Thanks in advance,
TIMK
Sorry I missed the question 12 awg vs 14 awg. It was a bit of over kill with 14 no other reason. And boy I am glad I went with 12 awg romex, it is pretty hard to pull thru the small existing holes as it is! The outside outlet box is atached to the shell by pop rivets and the outlet is self grounding.
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Old 06-06-2012, 08:01 AM   #420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDSLED88 View Post
What's the draw on the lights?

Amps=KW/KV

I think 14ga. is good for about 15amps, but I'm no electrician.

15amps x 0.012= 180 watts (max)

Not sure if this is right (disclaimer), but what would it hurt to run 12ga.

TIMK
DC stuff is real easy.

E = I R

E= voltage
I= current (amps)
R= Resistance

Then you can have W = E I

W = Watts

There are other DC formulas,

but the above should answer most questions.

Remember, that when the coach is plugged into city power, the 12 volts DC goes up because the Univolt is working.

The actual DC voltage can be as high as 13.4 volts when everything is working properly.

That then, also makes the current demand greater, which can cause a problem in a border line fused circuit.

As an example an 8 amp draw (self contained), would increase a little over 11 percent to 8.9 amps, which would be border line for a 10 amp fused circuit.

Andy
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