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tkasten · 01-28-2012, 07:04 AM

I also installed the grey bulb seal (from VTS) 3 years ago on my 65 Safari. Went on very easy. Each spring I apply a coat of silicone spray and they all work great. If some do fail in the future I will just replace them as it is so easy.

Frank's Trailer Works · 01-28-2012, 07:21 AM

My Grandfather owned a Service Station(they sold service, gas was an extra bonus) when I was a kid. Often customers asked to have their wiper blades replaced. My Grandfather took a bottle of glycerin from his pocket and applied it to the rubber blades. It made them almost brand new again. He would tell them to come see him in a few months when they really did need replacing.
I have found that this also works VERY well on the rubber seals of this era of trailer. I have had no shrinkage on my own trailer with applying a little glycerin every spring. This does not work on the foam gaskets used in later years or the foam gasket on the main door.

marzboy · 01-28-2012, 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by truckasaurus

MB I might have missed it but are you going to re-install the original tail light clusters; just curious as I was really tempted to pick up a mid 60's trailer and swap the lights out for early 60's units.

Funny you should ask, I am considering using the round lights used on the earlier models. I am going to take my lens housings to a surfboard shaper and see if he can salvage them. Also a friend of mine that I met on the forums is going to have a mold made out of his by a fabricator friend of his so I might have access to new ones.
So I have a little time to decide.....

marzboy · 01-28-2012, 08:51 AM

@ Frank and Tim Yes the bulb gasket is pretty easy to apply and re apply. That is the bigger reason I went with it. I believe that VTS makes the bulb gasket out of silicone now as oppose to rubber. Most of the people who went with it are very happy. I suspect that there are many reasons these windows leak (the 1965 windows) apart from the bulb gasket. I plan on using aluminum gutter real on all the joints and seams of the window frames, Parond on the mitered joints outside seams and eyebrows, and a very small dab of silicone on the corner of the bulb gasket. We shall see......
Ps Thank you Frank for sharing your tips it is great to get some good tec from someone who does more restoration than most of us!

marzboy · 01-28-2012, 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy

So to make an analogy go further.. first the Titantic sank, and then the Costa? I think the bulb seal works better now because of better rubber?
Thanks for your input Frank!

I meant to ask the purpose of the hot knife.. does that make it cut better, or are you sealing the edges of the miter that way?

Sure, I'm up for a beer, or coffee (I'm from the NW you know

).. I'll remember to PM next time! Yes, she's interested in animation in the entertainment industry... traditional or digital. Just wrapping my head around college costs! Whew! Some of these colleges (well, actually all three I visited) I could buy a new 25 foot AS every year!!
Where's my lotto ticket!

Marc

I used the heated blade mainly to make cuts easier but you have to clean off the blade every so often or it can get a touch messy.
My youngest is going to school near San Francisco its a bit pricey but its fun to visit. I feel you on school costs though, a little different than when I was in school. Thank God she got scholarships. I think it is Cal Arts that has good ties with Disney animation. Not sure but I will ask around.
Would love to hook up and meet next time you (or any of you) get down here.

JGS · 01-28-2012, 10:41 AM

I am following your thread. I recently purchased a project a 1967 30 Sovreign with rear bathroom. The rear support under the bathroom is gone so I have to get metal and have it welded. Some questions are : Do you have any more pics of that. What guage metal are the left to right pieces and the rear support parts. Really and help and guidance you can offer would be great. My e-mail is JSImages@aol.com Thanks, John

marzboy · 01-28-2012, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JGS

I am following your thread. I recently purchased a project a 1967 30 Sovreign with rear bathroom. The rear support under the bathroom is gone so I have to get metal and have it welded. Some questions are : Do you have any more pics of that. What guage metal are the left to right pieces and the rear support parts. Really and help and guidance you can offer would be great. My e-mail is JSImages@aol.com Thanks, John

Hi John
I had a lot of metal fabricated because they don't make 5" 12 gauge steel u channel stock. I will dig up some pics for you this weekend, ok?

marzboy · 01-31-2012, 08:44 PM

Im waiting on some more parts for the windows so I decided to start on the vents. Not too difficult just a lot of drilling. I even made a new refer chimminey collar. Thougt it was going to be simple... wrong!

ND10CentCan · 01-31-2012, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marzboy

Im waiting on some more parts for the windows so I decided to start on the vents. Not too difficult just a lot of drilling. I even made a new refer chimminey collar. Thougt it was going to be simple... wrong!

Letting any grass grow under your feet! I am continually amazed at how much time each segment of the restoration takes and the sheer number of projects that must be done in each step. Looks like you know what you are doing and thanks for sharing so the rest of us can learn from you.
Sandy

marzboy · 01-31-2012, 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ND10CentCan

Letting any grass grow under your feet! I am continually amazed at how much time each segment of the restoration takes and the sheer number of projects that must be done in each step. Looks like you know what you are doing and thanks for sharing so the rest of us can learn from you.
Sandy

Tell me about it! It seems like every step gives birth to a zillion tiny steps.
Its even harder to stop and take a picture. But I have to try so I can see how far that I have come. And hopefully someone can get something out of this.
And I was wondering how many people get sick of hearing themselves say "...no I'm working on my trailer again this weekend."

Frank's Trailer Works · 02-01-2012, 02:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marzboy

And I was wondering how many people get sick of hearing themselves say "...no I'm working on my trailer again this weekend."

I say it all the time...

tinman54 · 02-01-2012, 04:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marzboy

Tell me about it! It seems like every step gives birth to a zillion tiny steps.
Its even harder to stop and take a picture. But I have to try so I can see how far that I have come. And hopefully someone can get something out of this.
And I was wondering how many people get sick of hearing themselves say "...no I'm working on my trailer again this weekend."

Friends have been trying to get me to go fishing or do other things, asking a couple times a week. I ask if they want to work on aluminum, they just say are you ever going to be done, The answer, I don't know??? Like you said every time you finish one thing it seems like a bunch more little details show up. It's just like building a house but most of the pieces have to be custom made.

Engtech05 · 02-01-2012, 04:04 PM

Marzboy, I am truly impressed. I bought my 69 Sovereign a couple of years ago from PO in Fl. it looked great on the out and in. I had to replace the floor in the front and rear soon after I got it because of rot. An being a newbie at AS repair have to replace the rear floor again. I pulled everything out this past weekend. Having a friend build me a black water tank holder, buying a new tank and then replumbing the water lines while everything is out. I will have to do a frame repair at the guy who is building my tank well, the curb side c channel is pretty bad. Reading your posts have helped in a lot of ways especially where to purchase items. Keep up the great work! I'm proud to have you as fellow Airstreamer!

marzboy · 02-01-2012, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Engtech05

Marzboy, I am truly impressed. I bought my 69 Sovereign a couple of years ago from PO in Fl. it looked great on the out and in. I had to replace the floor in the front and rear soon after I got it because of rot. An being a newbie at AS repair have to replace the rear floor again. I pulled everything out this past weekend. Having a friend build me a black water tank holder, buying a new tank and then replumbing the water lines while everything is out. I will have to do a frame repair at the guy who is building my tank well, the curb side c channel is pretty bad. Reading your posts have helped in a lot of ways especially where to purchase items. Keep up the great work! I'm proud to have you as fellow Airstreamer!

Thank you so much! When I started this project almost 2 years ago I knew nothing about Airstream restoration. Now I know how to buck rivets, differences in aluminum alloys, how to MIG weld, and so much more. Mainly from the people of these forums. So kind and willing to help (even if it hurts a little). I am not a shy person. I believe in asking questions if you want answers. I am so grateful to all who have helped me, its nice to be able to give back. It is a little funny when someone says they learned something from me. Crazy! If you need more detailed pics check out my blog. I usually upload more pics there.

Engtech05 · 02-02-2012, 12:21 PM

While I have the rear end apart I am going to replace the old copper gas lines with new black pipe, and a new switch valve. I was lucky enough that when I bought the AS it had the 30 gal aluminum tanks. It looks like all the lines run outside the skin underneath so it shouldn't be to hard to replace. I will have to buy or rent a pipe threader though. Wish me luck.

marzboy · 02-02-2012, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Engtech05

While I have the rear end apart I am going to replace the old copper gas lines with new black pipe, and a new switch valve. I was lucky enough that when I bought the AS it had the 30 gal aluminum tanks. It looks like all the lines run outside the skin underneath so it shouldn't be to hard to replace. I will have to buy or rent a pipe threader though. Wish me luck.

Isn't copper better for LP? lucky for me my friend is a plumber and can help me with the LP, water and drains. Good luck!

Engtech05 · 02-02-2012, 01:21 PM

Not sure on this one, seems like they use it on all new home construction, the only thing I can think of being a problem is the rigidity of the pipe vs copper tubing. Will have to look into this more I think.

tinman54 · 02-02-2012, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Engtech05

Not sure on this one, seems like they use it on all new home construction, the only thing I can think of being a problem is the rigidity of the pipe vs copper tubing. Will have to look into this more I think.

As a heating contractor, we mostly use copper(miles every year), 25yrs ago steel pipe was more the norm but is more time consuming to install and usually has more joints to leak. Unless the line is somewhere it could be damaged I would use copper with what they call around my area as heavy or forged flair nuts, don't use the thin cone shaped ones as they can crack and are against code to use in our area.
Here is a picture of the two types, most hardware stores should have them: Flare nut with JY4422 products, buy Flare nut with JY4422 products from alibaba.com One more thing is copper should be installed so there are no joints that are not accessible, make sure to leak check all of your lines when done, that first voyage would not be as much fun if it involved a big bang

marzboy · 02-03-2012, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tinman54

As a heating contractor, we mostly use copper(miles every year), 25yrs ago steel pipe was more the norm but is more time consuming to install and usually has more joints to leak. Unless the line is somewhere it could be damaged I would use copper with what they call around my area as heavy or forged flair nuts, don't use the thin cone shaped ones as they can crack and are against code to use in our area.
Here is a picture of the two types, most hardware stores should have them: Flare nut with JY4422 products, buy Flare nut with JY4422 products from alibaba.com One more thing is copper should be installed so there are no joints that are not accessible, make sure to leak check all of your lines when done, that first voyage would not be as much fun if it involved a big bang

I agree, copper is pretty resilient stuff. Even the LP lines I removed looked to be in decent shape after 45 years of neglect. I also believe it is best to have all the joints under the trailer. You don't want gas leaking inside the belly pan. I believe that propane is heavier than air and will sink and dissipate.

worldinchaos · 02-03-2012, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marzboy

I believe that propane is heavier than air and will sink and dissipate.

Correctimundo. Propane is 150% the density of air. It will sink. If it is a small leak out of a fitting, it will only be noticeable by the ethyl mercaptan smell. If a catastrophic failure occurs, it will probably do a pretty poor job of dispersing given how low to the ground it already is. Then you will have a low vapor cloud that will find an ignition source and turn your Memorial Day trip into the Fourth of July...

My impression of the black iron v. copper: the advantage of using black iron for the main header, and then teeing off to copper, is that it provides more rigidity in the case of a foreign object on the road, i.e. "Oh golly, something must have bumped up into my undercarriage".

While copper would smush (technical term), the black iron would hopefully do a little bit better. Some of my 50 year old copper lines, while intact, were definitely "smushed". Just my guess/ understanding/ opinion of the black iron advantage. (although I still might just do 100% copper).