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marzboy · 05-05-2012, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by REDSLED88

Yeah, I don't know how you do what you do at a storage unit place.
I get to just open my garage door and go to work.
But like most people, a million little jobs before you get it all tied together.

I have to replace front curbside lower exterior panel, patch the 14"x26" to make it a 14"x14" size for a Fan Fan, and also the interior to match.
I have to replace the panel just right of the door (below the window) and
then I think I'm going to do 5052 .025 for the belly (maybe, well see).
Oh yeah, and probably a custom "california" looking patch like Marz's, although a little bit bigger, covering the 4" heater exhaust hole on my roadside. I'll be going with a ceramic Suburban heater so I don't need the exhaust.

I'll try and keep my posts short also,
Thanks in advance,

TIMK

Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery

REDSLED88 · 05-13-2012, 08:44 PM

So I received a bunch of different parts this week,
and have been playing with those. The best thing I've done so far this week has been a polishing a 24"x24" piece. I was trying to remove some heavy scratching, and began using a 12"x7/8" Sewn cotton wheel with Black Bar. It was powered by a DWP849X variable speed polisher. That thing scoots.
I've began polishing this section in hoping someone can tell me if this is clear coat or not, and also to remove the scratches. Unfortunately the scratches need a little more work, so I'll probably be wet sanding with 600, then 800, and then 1200, and then back to black. Also, it's a motivational piece!!!!

I'm continuing the stripping of the interior... I'm about 3/4 done with Zolatone removal, but it will need alot more work (including a light polish) before I remove the interior panels.

Peter, did you use the 3M SR Bristle Discs on the interior to remove zolatone around the windows?

The marker light lenses from VTS match the original Grotelite 233 amber and red for the '65 stock lights.
I also re-assembled and managed to save the rear Hehr Vent actuators (JB weld rules).

All the roof vents are cleaned and ready for compounding.
However, the refer vent collar was installed with 1/8" pop rivets.... Should I re-install with 1/8" pop rivets, or upsize to 5/32" and buck and be done with it? I'm afraid I may want to remove later, and am wondering if I should use the pop rivets for easy removal later?

So Is this clearcoat? (the "non" polished part)

TIMK

Becky B. · 05-13-2012, 09:39 PM

Looks like clear coat to me. Get a can of aircraft stripper from Auto Zone & spray it on. It'll take it off immediately. Just don't get it on any plastics. It'll eat it up!

worldinchaos · 05-14-2012, 12:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by REDSLED88

I'm continuing the stripping of the interior... I'm about 3/4 done with Zolatone removal, but it will need alot more work (including a light polish) before I remove the interior panels.

Looking good man. I think its a good idea to do a basic polish before you pull out the panels. I was in a rush on the demo because I really wanted to pull out the floor and see the condition of the full frame, but the first compounding step makes such a mess that it would have been much easier to do it that way. And the Zolatone is no small task either....There's light at the end of the tunnel, I promise!

Quote:

Originally Posted by REDSLED88

Peter, did you use the 3M SR Bristle Discs on the interior to remove zolatone around the windows?

I did not. I used lots of plastic scrapers, and I should have bought more. I bought them regularly at Walmart and tried to use them when they got dull and chipped, when I should have just gotten new ones. I also used heavy duty scrub brushes with nylon bristles, but nothing stronger than that. For the actual window trim pieces, once I removed them and laid them out, I used a combination of those other tools I mentioned as well as successively finer grades of sandpaper from 150 to ~800, followed by polishing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by REDSLED88

All the roof vents are cleaned and ready for compounding.
However, the refer vent collar was installed with 1/8" pop rivets.... Should I re-install with 1/8" pop rivets, or upsize to 5/32" and buck and be done with it? I'm afraid I may want to remove later, and am wondering if I should use the pop rivets for easy removal later?

I would go with buck rivets unless you are positive you will be removing it in the next year. It's better than forgetting about it or regretting not doing it later. Bucking is just so much more secure and sealed well when done properly.

REDSLED88 · 06-06-2012, 02:03 PM

So, I've been under my A.A.D.D. (Airstream Attention Deficit Disorder) lately, and have been rotating many tasks.
I have decided to work top down, since I have scaffolding from my neighbor, so I began polishing the roof, and also have ordered 2024T3x.032 for the roof patch to install the Fantastic Vent in place of the escape hatch.

I did make a new refrig. vent collar. Just need to rivet with 1/8" 470AD4-X rivets and re-install.
Making more headway on the interior Zolatone removal, but not quite finished.

And to top it off, a co-worker of mine hooked me up with some Cat Batteriers for the 12V DC system. Not sure if these are overkill, but they were free.

BTW.....
her name is betty

REDSLED88 · 08-14-2012, 08:26 PM

So, I've been off for knee surgery for 6 weeks, 4 more weeks to go.
But in the meantime I've found someone interested in working on the trailer.
So far we have removed all the interior panels after stripping.
I found that after using Kleen Strrip aircraft stripper, I then used a plastic lufa style dish sponge dipped in Mineral spirits to take off the last layer and bits.
Seemed to work well... it only took me 3/4 of the way to come up with that last bit. I never did get to polishing (like Peter) I was in a hurry to just get through it.

Anywho, all interior panels are removed, old glass insulation removed, all wiring removed, and I have also took off the curbside corner panel for replacement (good thing, because the fiberglass endcaps wouldn't come out the door)

I have also removed the belly pan (what a PITA!!!!), but still need to do some more work under there.

At this point I have approx. 30 hours of compounding on the roof, which I wanted to get done before I didn't have anymore scaffolding. It's going by by for 2 1/2 months.... oh well.

Here are some pics for your enjoyment (although I'm still not even quite half way with the resto).
Thanks in advance,
TIMK

worldinchaos · 08-16-2012, 03:00 PM

Looking awesome!!!

REDSLED88 · 09-09-2012, 06:56 PM

Ok, so does anyone know if you can fit your interior fiberglass endcaps from a '65 out through the door?

The reason I ask is I took mine out the curbside lower corner panel that was removed (thus there is a much larger hole to exit them),
but now they are stored away and I don't want to try and put the endcaps back in, or at least try without asking.

I need to install my corner panel and don't want to get stuck with my endcaps on the outside.

TIMK

REDSLED88 · 10-01-2012, 10:28 PM

Ok, so I've cut the corner panel, drill out ( went through 4 bits), and attempted first dry fit.
Needed to remove old caulking and *&%$# silcone on the inside first.
Thanks PO for that one! Actually it wasn't too bad.
Now I just need to find out a couple things.

1) Can you get interior endcaps through the door on a '65?

2) Can anyone come and buck rivets... I can't really find anyone I trust (LOL)
maybe I'm just being too picky.

So my next move with be to pull the plastic scratch cover on the sheet, deburr, and attempt a final dry fit.

After that I would assume I would go row by row, pulling all the clecos on one side, running a bead of sealant on that side, then re-install clecos, then go right to bucking (dipping rivet in sealant for good luck, as BARTS says). I would think a row by row (left side, top, right side and bottom), in that order would be a good plan.

Or does everyone just get all sloppy and try to run and bead and then fit it in, then cleco, then start riveting?

TIMK

KristinS · 10-02-2012, 07:20 AM

We were able to get the end caps through the door of our '65 Overlander (26'), so I'm hoping it will work for you as well.

It took two people to steady and maneuver so we didn't crack them, and we had the window cut out facing down and toward the rear of the trailer so we could make the turn. We used the window cut out as a pivot point (if that makes any sense) by keeping it in the doorway until the person in the trailer could turn the end cap enough to clear the wheel wells.

I haven't gotten to riveting yet (we're only at the frame grinding and repair stage) so good luck and let us know what you figure out!

REDSLED88 · 10-02-2012, 06:28 PM

Thanks KristinS, I will try and see if I can get them in there.

TIMK

Swimhard4 · 05-16-2013, 06:22 PM

What size axil does yours have? Did you replace yours? Any updated photos?

REDSLED88 · 01-25-2015, 10:28 PM

Well, it's been almost 2 years since I worked on the trailer.
I finally put the curbside front lower corner panel back in, everything came out ok, but had to use a couple of 3/16 'A' rivets to fill some big holes.

We bought a house, and that put the airstream on the back burner, but now I'm ready.

This weekend I finished putting in the roof patch for new Fantastic Vent, shot it all in, went perfect, and was actually surprised at the work ( I think Kip would be proud).

Here are some picks of new 14"x14" hole in roof patch. Went a little overkill with the spacing on the rivets, but it'l hold.

REDSLED88 · 01-25-2015, 10:36 PM

Sorry Swimhard, I have not changed my axel yet, but when I do I suspect I be using Colin Hyde.

My next move is putting back in all roof vents to protect from rain, so as to check for leaks.

The Stove Vent has 7 holes in it for replacement, but there are about 13 in the skin. I'm assuming they replaced it, and just put in new holes.

Does anybody know if the vent fan is riveted to the outside shell?
And Do I need to put that back in before I put on the vent, or does the fan just pop in the hole? I'd hate to shoot on the vent fan, and then have to remove later.
Thinking of using 8-32 stainless screws with stop nuts for the time being until I find out.

TIMK

thumbelinadj · 01-25-2015, 11:18 PM

So happy to connect with you! The vent fan on mine was riveted so close to the rib on the back I had to access it from the roof to remove it.

REDSLED88 · 01-26-2015, 07:53 PM

So the fan mount was actually riveted to the outside, not just the Stove exhaust vent cover?
I guess that's why there are more holes in the trailer than on the cover.

You see, I literally had nothing except a shell when I bought it, no cabinets, no appliances, nothing..... So I'm having to peace it back toghether.

Thanks for the info, let me know if you need any help on anything,

TIMK

thumbelinadj · 01-26-2015, 09:22 PM

My stove vent was over the window. I have a big skylight toward the front that I could get off easily from the inside. The back by the rib was my vent. It was a mess.

Explore my google plus albums - this one shows you my roof

https://plus.google.com/photos/11042...23339391163809

REDSLED88 · 02-15-2015, 09:19 AM

Well I've had a couple long weekends to get some more work done.

Photo 1 - Reinstalled Stove cover. Had to take a ball peen hammer to reshape due to a couple of dents.
Used 10-32 SS machine screws with nylock nuts.
By the way, #10 machine screws fit nice and tight in a #21 drill hole.

Photo 2,3 & 4 - Completed the making of my refer collar, added aluminum screen on top. I used 5/32" buck rivets to hold frame to shell. Then I cut a thin strip of .032 to hold the screen to the top of shell using 1/8" pop rivets.
Now I just need to buck to trailer. More surface prep on inside is required considering the black Goo from the factory.

Photo 5 - New vent caps polished up. I have them riveted on with 5/32" buck rivets and Trempro 635. Will show picture in next post.

Need to finish up second vent ( I only got one before it got dark), shoot on refer collar, and Cover..... still working on what to do with Refer collar cover.

Then install my new Fantastic vent in the new patch. I'll be using 12-24 SS machine screws and nylock nuts. #12 oval heads seem to fit just right in the existing countersunk holes in the Fantastic Vent.

After that I can polish and clean up old vent, then seal and reinstall lid and the roof SHOULD be done.... for now..... until I have to clean up and seal next year..... and then maybe the year after that.... and the year after that and..........

Thanks for following,

TIMK

thumbelinadj · 02-18-2015, 11:07 PM

I just loaded copious amounts of detailed photos up on Google Plus. Hope that helps. https://plus.google.com/photos/11042...18450367428113

Just look through more of the albums for more.

REDSLED88 · 02-20-2015, 05:19 PM

It appeared that your counter was approx. 2-3" under your window thumbalinadj.
That gives me a good reference to start with. I'll probably be doing something in the neighborhood of 38". My counter in my house is 36", but I was hoping for 40" in the trailer. I'll have to cut the difference.
Now to find a fridge to fit in that area. Looking for something a little larger than 2 cu ft.

Any suggestions?

TIMK