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Old 11-07-2006, 10:50 AM   #341
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Don't Panic....
Surely you can find a cheap storage place in that huge dry desert. Hang on to it for a year or two. These things take time....
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Old 11-07-2006, 11:33 AM   #342
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Aaargh. Sorry to hear about this. If storage is the only issue, I have 43 acres up near Seligman that you're welcome to put it on for free. We could probably button it up pretty tightly so it would be ok. But I realize there may be other issues as well.

Hope you can still come to the Phoenix BBQ on Dec. 3. (See Rally Calendar).
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Old 11-07-2006, 12:03 PM   #343
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I share other's comments and wish you will give serious reconsideration on your decision. If I had the space, I'd store it for you in a heartbeat. No questions from me and no obligations on your part. If you do find a place, I offer my services, whatevcer they may be, to assist you in keeping this truely unique trailer that you've poured yourself into.

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Old 11-07-2006, 12:45 PM   #344
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I also offer my services, wyatever they might be. I have 1/3 of an acre in Phoenix, but because of the way the house is sitting I can not get my trailer to the back yard. Mine is stored (covered) in El Mirage.
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Old 11-07-2006, 04:25 PM   #345
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Dave, Brad & Rich, damn good of guys for offering to help like that. Ank has a great camper with a lot of time & effort in it. Maybe he can hang on for a year and things will look better. Good on ya. Karma to you all.

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Old 11-07-2006, 07:23 PM   #346
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Karma, Karma, Karma

Hang onto it... with the SOTR where it is, I feel what you are feeling. Give yourself some time before selling. One way cool trailer!!!
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Old 11-07-2006, 10:49 PM   #347
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I am sorry to hear you are facing this dilema. I was really enjoying following your progress on this project. I'd offer to help you out and take it off your hands, but I'd get killed if I bought a trailer for that amount of money, that far away from home, that still needs to be reassembled. That said, your trailer would be an excellent project that would be worth the price if conditions were different for me. I mean, how often do you run accross double door vintage trailers? I know of only 4 for sure:
- A '48 28' Whrilwind (at Airstream in Jackson Center)
- A '49 28' Whirlwind (now probably in Europe)
- A '54 29' Liner (wkerfoot's)
- Your '57 26' Cruiser

There may be more, but even so, they are just so rare.

Good Luck with your decision. Karma is on it's way.
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Old 11-09-2006, 12:22 AM   #348
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funny how quickly the forums turns into a support group... but i second the others. hold on to it! i started a shell off on my 59 18 footer well over a year ago. life changes and i didn't have the time to dedicate to it like i used to. it'll get done at some point. no rush! i know if i sold it now, i'd regret it. you get attached to these things, you know? storage is cheaper than therapy!

jp
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Old 11-09-2006, 03:24 PM   #349
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Thanks!

Thanks everyone for your support!

I will keep on working on the trailer as I have time, but I am going to keep it listed for sale as well. If the right person comes along who wants to buy it, I'll sell it. For the time being, however, I don't *have* to sell it, so I'm only going to keep it listed on the classifieds on this site. I'm not putting it on eBay or anything like that.

Besides my day job, I own a software company which is really starting to take off. That has been one of the biggest consumers of my time lately (plus the new house) and the reason I may have to move soon (argh! The new house is just starting to look good!). The amount of time that this company is taking is only going to grow, too.

I know that if I sell this trailer it will sadden me, but I do enjoy the restoration process so if it sells, I know that there will eventually be a calmer time in my life where I can start another Airstream project. Maybe some day I'll even be like NorCal Bambi and have a whole yard full of projects I really hope that is the case, eventually, to be honest. Of course, I may have to wait until retirement for that... a mere 30 years away.

I'll continue to post my progress here as long as I have this trailer. Speaking of which, I finally got my new tire and wheel for the one that one flat because of rust on the wheel. But... I still haven't had time to put it back on. With any luck I can get that done this weekend.
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Old 11-09-2006, 09:55 PM   #350
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I to have never posted to this thread, however I have been an avid follower of your progress. I am at the tail end of the restoration of our 1960 28' Ambassador. After the incredible progress that you have made, I can't believe that you are willing to walk away from it. For purely selfish reasons, it's like a favorite show getting canceled before there is a conclusion. Please finish it.
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Old 11-10-2006, 08:38 AM   #351
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I can totally identify with that... like when they cancelled "Arrested Development". I loved that show. Think of this more like a favorite show possibly changing networks
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Old 11-17-2006, 02:36 PM   #352
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Electrical Wiring

I came across a great article on wiring for RVs/Trailers, http://www.ccis.com/home/mnemeth/12volt/12volt.htm

The thing that confuses me though is the diagram, which I've uploaded. It shows the AC shore power coming into the 110V breaker panel, then into the converter. It also shows the 110V items (outlets, AC, etc) drawing throught the breaker panel, to the inverter, which seems accurate.

My question is, wouldn't the shore power go directly to the converter, then to the 110V breaker panel for its output to the 110V items? That way, when there is no shore power, the converter can automatically draw from the batteries, instead.

Oh, also... how does one ensure that the Air Conditioning cannot be turned on while not connected to shore power?
I imagine if that were to happen by accident it would cause some problems....
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Old 11-17-2006, 02:50 PM   #353
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The power goes to the fuse panel first for protection. The converter is just another 110 volt item. If the converter was to short out it would trip a breaker in the power panel. It has nothing to do with the 110 volt operation of the trailer. It produces 12 volts for the battery and the 12 volt devices. When you have no shore power the 12 volt devices run from the battery automatically. When you have no shore power the air has no power. Turning it on does nothing, it is basically unplugged.


I think you have the converter confused with an inverter. The converter does not make 110 from the battery. You would need an inverter to do that.

The diagram that you attached is basicly how the system works.
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Old 11-17-2006, 02:53 PM   #354
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ankornuta
drawing throught the breaker panel, to the inverter, which seems accurate.
um...no. there's no inverter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ankornuta
My question is, wouldn't the shore power go directly to the converter, then to the 110V breaker panel for its output to the 110V items? That way, when there is no shore power, the converter can automatically draw from the batteries, instead.
nope. the converter converts 110v a/c to 12v dc. only dc lights/appliances get their power from it. the 12v system is like a big "loop". the batter and the converter both supply 12v on the line; If the converter is being fed by 110v, it puts 12v on the line; if it isn't being fed, it does nothing. power is drawn from the battery.
this "loop" is totally seperate from the 110volt circuits. If you turn on the air conditioner when there's no shore power...nothing happens.
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Old 11-17-2006, 03:17 PM   #355
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OH... that makes sense. I just assumed that all converters were packaged along with inverters. I did a little more online research and realized that is not the case.

I think that I would like to find an inverter/converter/charger combination so that I could use 12V and 110V even when disconnected from shore power for items like TV, kitchen appliances and charging my laptop.


Would something like this do the trick? http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/r...er-convert.htm
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Old 11-17-2006, 03:19 PM   #356
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I made 2 changes to the diagram that you posted. This is how my 75 Trade Wind is wired. The converter and the outside 12 volts (truck) feed to the 12 volt fuse panel. They are feed back to the battery from that point.
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Old 11-17-2006, 03:26 PM   #357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azflycaster
I made 2 changes to the diagram that you posted. This is how my 75 Trade Wind is wired. The converter and the outside 12 volts (truck) feed to the 12 volt fuse panel. They are feed back to the battery from that point.
Richard,

Interesting, my 1979 Safari is just like the original diagram.

Bill
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Old 11-17-2006, 03:30 PM   #358
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Quote:
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Richard,

Interesting, my 1979 Safari is just like the original diagram.

Bill
I have the diagram for mine and the battery connects to the fuse / distrabution panel. If yours is like the first diagram you would have 2 sets of wires going to the battery. I have one set.
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Old 11-17-2006, 03:38 PM   #359
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I think you're both right, it's the diagram that is faulty. According to the diagram, energy from the converter must pass THROUGH the battery to get to the fuse panel. Thats false. The converter, battery and charge line are in parallel.

It's a confusing diagram, certainly wouldn't pass as a flow diagram or a schmatic. It's more like a nonfunctional illustration.
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Old 11-17-2006, 03:41 PM   #360
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ankornuta ~ The inverter you posted the link to would do the trick, but you may need another trailer to haul the batteries to run it. 3000 watts is a bunch. It would be enough to run you Air Conditioner. You would need 250 amps of battery to run that at full capacity for one hour. A group 27 RV battery is rated for around 100 amp hours and you don't want to run them down to zero.

If you use 5 amps for a tv and laptop, thats 550 watts or close to 50 amps of 12 volt power. Basicly you could run those two devices for around an hour with one RV battery. Two hours would run that one battery flat and damage it.

Full hookups or a good generator would be my suggestion for that type of power useage.
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