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Jim & Susan · 04-27-2006, 07:33 PM

That sounds like a pretty good deal. I had to have the pan that the black tank sits in redone. $220 for that. For what its worth, I por-15'd mine (actually silver Eastwood, because that's what I had left over). The old one was rusted pretty badly in places.

ankornuta · 04-30-2006, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim & Susan

That sounds like a pretty good deal. I had to have the pan that the black tank sits in redone. $220 for that. For what its worth, I por-15'd mine (actually silver Eastwood, because that's what I had left over). The old one was rusted pretty badly in places.

Yeah, I'm going to POR-15 my wheel wells (inner and outer). I think I'm also going to do the channel before attaching it to the floor.

ankornuta · 05-09-2006, 08:35 PM

Blah! It's starting to get so hot here. I'm wondering if I should take a little break for the summer, maybe from mid-June to mid-September... I want to get the floor and belly pan done. But if I do that... well then I might as well put the tile down and attach the body

**azflycaster** · 05-09-2006, 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ankornuta

Blah! It's starting to get so hot here. I'm wondering if I should take a little break for the summer, maybe from mid-June to mid-September... I want to get the floor and belly pan done. But if I do that... well then I might as well put the tile down and attach the body

It might go triple digit tomorrow

, but the mornings are nice. I would want to get things covered up before the August weather gets here. Go Suns!

SilverToy · 05-09-2006, 11:54 PM

A -

Sounds like you are making really good progress on the AS. Glad to hear of your 'semi' reasonable adventure into the sheet metal world. Not like I have a lot of experience here, but hey, it sounds like a really good price!?

Stay with the work.... we had a wicked Cold Front (ABQ) come through which, with the WILD winds actually obscured/blocked visibility of the mountains (3/4 Naut.Mi.) and nearly closed the interstate because of low/NO visibility.

Summer ain't here quite yet.....

I was actually under SilverToy, this afternoon, when I had a windgust actually lift a 5 pound sledge and move it about 2 feet, while it was sitting on a wiring diagram... Getting the rear stabilizer(s) re-attached after a re-jigger and a repair. Anyway, stick with it and 'Git-er-done' to whatever degree you can!

Peace

Axel

ankornuta · 05-10-2006, 10:59 AM

Thanks Axel!

And AzFlyCaster... I grew up in So. California... so I was kind of cheering for the Lakers. Perhaps I'll have to change my tune soon

ankornuta · 05-10-2006, 11:04 AM

I want to bolt my floor down this weekend. I've got it all fitted. However, it just occurred to me that my holding tanks (under the floor) are blocking me from tightening the elevator bolts in the back where the rear-most sheets of plywood join up.

Has anyone put the bolt part on the top-side? I guess I could use a forstner bit to make room for it, then cut the bolt shaft off once tightened. Do you think this will work?

Also, if anyone with a late 50's, early 60's trailer could send me a picture of how close the body is to the rear bumber, I'd appreciate that, just to make sure I've got the rear-most sheet of plywood lined up properly and cut to the correct length.

Thanks!
-Andrew

ankornuta · 06-11-2006, 08:03 PM

It officially got too hot to keep working outside here in Phoenix in mid-May. Some may disagree with me... but I can't stand being out in this heat. This project is on-hold until it cools down again, probably late September.

ankornuta · 06-25-2006, 10:02 PM

So I braved the heat this morning and decided to go out and do some misc cleanup/organization work on the trailer project. I only lasted about two hours before the weather wilted me and I quit for the day.

But what I did accomplish was okay. I moved the wood floor (which is not bolted down) off of the frame and onto some supports to make sure it doesn't bow or get wet. I also moved the belly skin to a location where I could make a better assesment of it's condition; there is no way it can be saved. It's got holes and tears all in it. I'm going to pay a shop to make me a new belly pan once I get the floor secured and tiled, but I think I want to use a thicker aluminum than the original.

Also, I noticed that the silver paint that I used on the bumper, steps and hitch kind of.... rubs off. I wonder if it's because I didn't rough up the POR-15 enough before painting. I'm going to try rough sanding the paint that's on there now and repainting. It's a good quality paint designed for metal, so I'm assuming it's just the way I applied it that's causing the problem.

fastrob · 06-26-2006, 06:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ankornuta

I want to bolt my floor down this weekend. I've got it all fitted. However, it just occurred to me that my holding tanks (under the floor) are blocking me from tightening the elevator bolts in the back where the rear-most sheets of plywood join up.

Has anyone put the bolt part on the top-side? I guess I could use a forstner bit to make room for it, then cut the bolt shaft off once tightened. Do you think this will work?

Also, if anyone with a late 50's, early 60's trailer could send me a picture of how close the body is to the rear bumber, I'd appreciate that, just to make sure I've got the rear-most sheet of plywood lined up properly and cut to the correct length.

Thanks!
-Andrew

Andrew, Did you get an answer on the elevator bolts? You do not want bolts into those tanks. In regards the body and bumper; On my Tradewind the water flowed down the face of the aluminum, was trapped by the sewage hose storage and rotted the flooring

ankornuta · 06-28-2006, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fastrob

Andrew, Did you get an answer on the elevator bolts? You do not want bolts into those tanks. In regards the body and bumper; On my Tradewind the water flowed down the face of the aluminum, was trapped by the sewage hose storage and rotted the flooring

Nope, no word on the bolts from anybody, but I think I'm going use one of two techniques:
1. Weld a nut under the cross member and screw the bolt into the nut, making sure it doesn't stick down too far.
2. Insert the bolts over the water tanks upside down, with the smooth head underneath. The bolts will be secured from the top. I think this is the best approach.

I don't have sewage host storage in the back and won't be adding it for that very reason. You definitely don't want water sitting at floor level outside the trailer.

ankornuta · 07-11-2006, 10:30 PM

So I just couldn't resist, in spite of the 108 degree weather AND humidity; I started working on the trailer again. I've mostly been doing misc work, like POR-15'ing the wheel wells and the u-channel, doing additional coats of paint on the bumpers and steps, etc. I also decided to redo the insulation on top of my water tanks because it's too thick and was compressed in places rendering it somewhat ineffective. I figured I would pressure test the seals on the water tanks and pipes again as long as I had everything exposed again. And it's a good thing I did!

I found leaks where my plastic drain pipes connect via "flex fittings" into the black ABS tanks. They only leak when the tanks are totally full and I push on them, but it still bothers me. I used regular white silicon to seal around these fittings where they go into the ABS tanks. Is that what everyone else has used, or could that be my problem?

AZstreamin · 07-11-2006, 11:00 PM

Brother, it is hotter that a witches t......out there right now! Don't even think of it tomorrow when its 115! Does somebody have a warehouse with A/C for this fella..I commend the effort and commitment.

ankornuta · 07-12-2006, 04:55 PM

LOL... it's an addiction man. I just can't quit it!

Jim & Susan · 07-12-2006, 07:29 PM

Been in the high 90's and humidity by the quart around here the last month. It's been tough, but we've gotten several days' work completed. Hang in there bro, you'll get it done. Water, don't stop drinking that cool water. If you're not running to the 'Loo every hour, drink more water.

Jim

ankornuta · 07-13-2006, 02:45 PM

I've been drinking plenty of water... and beer

Speaking of water, I'm down to just one more leak on my gray water tank. I just keep adding more silicon where I find leaks. Something tells me this isn't the best way to address the problem... any other ideas?

Jim & Susan · 07-13-2006, 03:19 PM

Unfortunately, I can't practice what I preach today. Temp is just below 100 and humidity is thru the roof. I did all of the outside I can stand today at work. No work on the Airstream today.

Ank, aren't your tanks all new plastic? Where are these leaks? Around the fittings? I accidentally cut a hole in the end of my fresh water tank while taking the old floor out.

I took it over to the local RV place and had them patch it. If I knew then what I know now....Apparently the way to patch them is just to heat up a specific type of plastic and "weld" it to the tank. I don't know if it will work, but if the fittings are leaking, try some good old fashioned plumbers tape.

Jim

ankornuta · 07-13-2006, 05:44 PM

My leaks have been where the plastic drain pipes go into the ABS holding tanks. What I did in these places is what the RV store told me to do:

1. Cut an appropriately sized hole in the holding tank
2. Insert this rubber "sleeve" type thing with a flange that is larger than the hole. The flange goes on both the inside and outside of the hole.
3. Insert the plastic pipes into the "sleeve" and C-clamp into place.
4. Silicone all around the flange

I've just added more silicone to the places that have leaked and they've stopped. But I'm concerned that they might start again; silicone doesn't seem like the best tool for the job, even though that's what was recommended. I was wondering what other people have used.

ankornuta · 07-17-2006, 03:05 PM

I was pulling my hair out with these leaks on my holding tanks. The leaks were only occurring around where the drain or vent pipes connected into the holding tanks. I had been using "standard" white silicone to seal the joints in these places. However, that stuff didn't seem to create a great seal. I wound up pulling that off (with my hands! Scary!) and using roof patching tar. This worked wonders. Even totally full with significant pressure applied to the tanks they did not leak.

Now to secure the floor....

ankornuta · 07-20-2006, 12:19 PM

Uh oh... we found a house that we REALLY like. It's a 1959 Haver-designed ranch style house in Scottsdale, AZ. Really big with a pool and huge shadey yard and lots of built in birch furniture (like my trailer) and almost the same year as the trailer. Oh, and RV parking in the back.

So we're buying it. And that's where the problem comes in; we're going to have to move in September. And that means moving the trailer with the body and frame separated. I don't think I can get it put back together in that short amount of time because I have to secure the floor, insulate, get a whole new bellypan fabricated, installed, etc...

Any tips on how to move the body? Flatbed trailer?