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Old 11-14-2007, 08:31 PM   #21
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1971 29' Ambassador
Gallatin Gtwy , Montana
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Tanks Zep

Just came in from cleaing up some odds and ends. It's amazing how consuming it can be. It's been taking up a lot of my thinking time.

Thanks for your advice!!!!!!!

Can the potable water tank be replaced without removing belly skin?

I had a friend come over to second my opinion that there is only one questioable area near the main door as far as rot. I checked the edge of the floor with screw driver and every where i tested seamed firm.

I have a hundred more ? but i'll go see if i cant find out where they have been previosly answered.

I agree with the pex, i'm in contracting and i've seen it benifits in sub zero enviroment.

Is there anthing that i can do to verify frame stabiity without floor or belly removal? I think this is one of those million dallar?

Thanks again!!!
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Old 11-14-2007, 08:49 PM   #22
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if the belly skin is in reasonable shape, it's not a big deal to take it down. The difficulty with bad skin is you'll want to replace it and it's a very tough job to relocate the holes in the frame.

I recommend taking the skin down because then you can really check the frame for rust and even POR-15 it, if necessary. You don't have to POR-15 the top rail so much as the web and bottom rail of the frame, since that's what gets wet, mostly. I think once you get the skin down, it is necessary to paint the frame because otherwise you'll lie awake for 20+ years wishing you had.

Ron (Mr. Pizza) is right, the worst area would be behind the axles, so you can do it piecemeal, with the backend first. Besides, that's where you can get at the dump valves, which undoubtedly will need refurbishment.

No, you can't do the tanks without taking the belly skin down. Just make sure you have lots of the big head 3/16" rivets (or are those suckers 5/32"?) from Vintage Trailer Supply, so you can put the belly skin back up.

Don't think of picking up the floor unless it's last resort time. As you can see, that would require cutting and somehow repairing, or picking up the shell first. Ouch. Plus, if you cut, there isn't much clearance between the flooring and the top of the tanks.

Zep
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Old 11-14-2007, 10:07 PM   #23
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Before you begin, it is a good idea to safely elevate the entire coach by backing it up onto some 6"x6" lumber, or equivalent. The extra space is absolutely necessary. Don't plan on moving it for a while, and you may want to have a talk with your neighbors (if you have any). It gets worse before it gets better.

Zep is right, there is no way to get to the important stuff without removing the belly pan. You'll get over it after the 100th rivet or so. If you're going to do it, you need to go ahead and do it right. Removal of the belly pan is just par for the course.

The freshwater tank sits atop a 1" thick piece of plywood and it is not removed easily. (Ask me how I know.)

When you've finished, you'll know exactly what you have, and you'll have no questions as to the integrity of the frame or major systems.

Good luck, perserverance pays off in the end.
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Old 11-14-2007, 10:21 PM   #24
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Scylla and Charybdis

Andy, Ron, and all other Airstream lovers out there--I hear you.

...

However, I've already recovered my share of unused [for years] and unloved Airstreams and I can't store this Ambassador. Sorry. And I don't think that it's appropriate to give it away, which you all know I'm perfectly willing to do with parts. It was expensive to "recover" this trailer and it was dangerous to dig through piles of rodent waste to make it possible to bring it back into civilization. Many of the parts have signifcant value to me and since Cherokee RV Salvage closed in Denver it's not easy for me to obtain them.

On a fundamental level it upsets me that the shell appears to be of no value to anyone, but that's life. I can't bear to throw it away, so be looking for a very short two-axle mid-bath model that will make men cry and women swoon at the rallys.

What this exercise says to me is that the Vintage Airstream world needs a hangar and shop somewhere that can support a rescue and/or an exchange of parts. If the airplane boys and EAA can do it, why can't we?

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Enough said,
Joe
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Old 11-14-2007, 10:26 PM   #25
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Zip Dee schematic

The Zip Dee will be parted out. The fabric is in tatters, but most of the hardware seems OK. It rolls out and retracts fine. As of now, both of the 3B3 bottom curved arm piece (the 3B2 is straight and is not on this awning) and one of the 5B pieces from the arms are not available.

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I have no clue how to get the roller off of the awning rail if the arms are detached (or even if they are attached). I would guess it would start rolling/flapping. There is no brake on the roller at the junction of the axle and the support arm. Anyone got an old owner's manual?

Joe
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Old 11-15-2007, 07:10 AM   #26
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I could use the plastic gaucho pieces that allow it to slide out into the full open position. Thanks.
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Old 11-15-2007, 02:07 PM   #27
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Zep An Pizza thanks a ton. Your input has realy put my mind at ease as far as deciding which way to go. Ill do some more research on riviting but i believe i don't need a special numatic rivitor.

I'll begin demo on the bath this wekend being as careful as i can to keep fixtures in original form. I plan on pulling the belly to the axels as Zep sugested. I'm leaning to replacing the fresh water tank if i have the belly off that far.

We have the Annual Cat Griz game (U of M vs MT state, GO CATS) this saturday which is the biggest sporting event in MT. Part of my justification for this purchase was for tailgating but i will have to wait until next year to make my entrance. I'm off to MN the next week for turkey day and hope to get right back at it after that.

Pizza is right on about the neighbors. I asked all of them prior to bringing it home but i still anticipate a letter from the HOA. at least i'm not that guy with the RV hooked into the subdivisions sewer system.

Average Joe-

I would be interested in the curb side awning as mine is missing the majority of it. Will zip dee still make these parts???.

Now the big question, should i remove all interior panels, insulation and wiring and start from the begining or do some testing and work with what i got. I plan on filling all of the holes on the interior skin and repainting the vinyl.

Thanks again for everyones help, i can sleep a little better knowing i'm not flying 100% blind.

Have a great day!!!
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Old 11-15-2007, 02:23 PM   #28
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What do i have to do to get one rivet, I suppose i need to actually rivet something. THanks again for everyones help and support!!!!
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Old 11-15-2007, 05:22 PM   #29
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Congrts are in order.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by fishing
What do i have to do to get one rivet, I suppose i need to actually rivet something. THanks again for everyones help and support!!!!
All you needed to do was post 5 posts and now you are at (6) and that first rivet is showing under your member name. Happy Trails, Ed
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Old 11-28-2007, 07:05 PM   #30
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Awsome!!! An official one RIVET Member.

Holidays can keep hobies at bay. I'm back at work and hope to have the bath pulled before christmas and over the holidays replace bath floors.

Couple of ?'s that maybe some can point me in the right direction

1- has anyone ever heard about converting rear bath to center bath???

2- can i replace bath floor and complete interior this winter and focuss on tanks, running gear, and por 15 on frame in the summer? Don't have interior shop and its cold outside!!!

Thanks for anyones comments. HAPPY HOLIDAYS.
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Old 11-28-2007, 08:45 PM   #31
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Quote:
1- has anyone ever heard about converting rear bath to center bath???
Theoretically it's possible, but not very practical. There are a whole lot of issues to deal with. (Not recommended)

Quote:
2- can i replace bath floor and complete interior this winter and focuss on tanks, running gear, and por 15 on frame in the summer? Don't have interior shop and its cold outside!!!
The problem is, you're going to have some frame restoration to do once the floor is removed and this will best be accomplished with the floor out of the way (especially if there is welding involved). It's going to be pretty hard to keep the inside warm while replacing the floor.
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Old 12-07-2007, 06:38 AM   #32
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Parting out

Sorry to say, three were no takers for this Amabassador in the classifieds. I'll be starting a new thread to document what parts will be available.

Joe
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Old 12-07-2007, 04:31 PM   #33
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Joe, Sorry no one was willing to take the whole trailer off your hands. However, that being done with now you can tear it apart and make some money by scrapping the aluminum and copper parts that no one else wants and sell off the still useable interior pieces. I personally think you will come out ahead as the trailer did have the rodent leftovers issue. Lights, fixtures, vents, and the like would not be damaged by that problem and I am sure there are those here and on ebay the would be able to use those type parts. Remember that items like the windows/frames, exterior access covers, and the entry door/screen will all net you some good sales. Keep us up to date on parts available and parts sold. I may be able to take some things off you hands myself. Save all the "cove" style aluminum mouldings that are in good shape. Keep all the interior and exterior sheets/skins as somebody may need them to repair a useable trailer with them. Exterior end caps are always getting damaged. Good luck with the tear down and keep us informed. Happy Trails, Ed
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Old 12-07-2007, 06:53 PM   #34
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Joe, forgive my poor memory. Did we ever determine the year of this Airstream? I really do need a piece of lower rub rail if that's going to be available. Please post a link here to let us know where the new thread will be. I'm not here as much as I used to be, so I don't want to miss out! Thanks in advance.

Jim
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Old 10-17-2008, 02:36 PM   #35
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Arrow Where's Paul Harvey when ya need him?

Well Average Joe;
this thread sorta transitioned to this one http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...rts-38145.html

But that one petered out pretty quick too.

How bout the "rest of the story"?

Or at least some more of the story...

What became of the mystery mouse house?
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Old 10-20-2008, 07:07 AM   #36
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BEDFORDS, up in Littleton, with a little help from me (ahem, ahem), convinced AVERAGEJOE to give him the whole Ambassador. He's been cleaning it and beginning the refurbishment project. You can see his progress here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...now-42859.html

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