1970 brake ? And hitch question

[CamperFan01]

Looking at an airstream about 5 hours from me, what are the chances the brakes work as the current owner says? Are there replacement back plates I can buy for it? Axles would come after its home. I would have to drive from Pittsburgh, PA down I-79 to southern WV. Lots of steep up and down mountains. I have an F250 so I’d prob be safe, but I’d just like to make sure I am.

Since hitch weight is most likely considerably higher than the listed 450lbs, Would an Equalizer E4 1000/10000 be overkill for the ride home? I have that currently for my Jayco and it would save money to use it for now. I know I could use it, but I don’t want to over stress the frame of the airstream. I guess I could turn down the WD part of it using less washers…. Thoughts?

[overlander64]

Greetings CamperFan!

Welcome to the Forums and the world of Vintage Airstreams!

Originally Posted by CamperFan01

Looking at an airstream about 5 hours from me, what are the chances the brakes work as the current owner says? Are there replacement back plates I can buy for it? Axles would come after its home. I would have to drive from Pittsburgh, PA down I-79 to southern WV. Lots of steep up and down mountains. I have an F250 so I’d prob be safe, but I’d just like to make sure I am.

Whether the brakes work are more a function of how recently the trailer was last towed, and how well it has been maintained up to the present. If the present owner has towed it this season or even towed it frequently last season, chances are the brakes may be fully functional. Given your towing distance, however, a checkup would be in order prior to an extended road trip. That checkup should include a cleaning and check of the bearings/races along with repacking, and while there an inspection of the brake magnet, brake drums, springs, etc. Should new shoes be necessary, it is usually much less expensive to purchase fully loaded backing plates that are generally readily available from farm supply stores, trailer repair shops, RV repair shops, as well as some automotive parts stores. Tires should also be inspected and verified to be less than 5 years of age, and of proper size rating -- ST 225 75 R 15 Load Range C minimum -- I usually suggest Load Range D for slightly improved load carrying capability.

Should the trailer be equipped with the optional Excella HydraVac Disc Brakes, you have an entirely different problem ahead of you as you may need to have a special Vacuum Connector on your tow vehicle as well as a special trailer brake controller in your tow vehicle to operate them -- unless they have been converted with an electric Vacuum Pump device mounted on/in the trailer to supply the vacuum need to actuate the brakes. I mention these brakes only as a caution -- they may not have become an option until later in the 1970s -- I am not certain of their first year of availability.

Originally Posted by CamperFan01

Since hitch weight is most likely considerably higher than the listed 450lbs, Would an Equalizer E4 1000/10000 be overkill for the ride home? I have that currently for my Jayco and it would save money to use it for now. I know I could use it, but I don’t want to over stress the frame of the airstream. I guess I could turn down the WD part of it using less washers…. Thoughts?

The hitch weight on a Vintage Ambassador that is in mostly original condition may shock you. Remember, these trailers were designed to be light such that they could be towed by the family car so their published weights tended to be a bit closer than with some of the more recent Airstreams. Optional equipment did, however, add weight then just as it does today -- and even more things were optional then that we consider as nearly standard today such as the curbside awning and an air conditioner. As you will see, in the base model Ambassador, the hitch weight was either 455 or 465 pounds depending upon whether it is a twin or double bedroom layout -- even with options a mostly original, but empty trailer will likely have a hitch weight of less than 550 pounds. You may find these links to literature about the 1970 Ambassador on the Airstream website to be of assistance:

1970 Airstream Floor Plans

1970 Airstream Standard Specifications

1970 Historical Airstream Articles

Good luck with your investigation!

Kevin

[mrdes8]

Hey, welcome to Airstreaming and the forums. I see 3 major areas here... 1) Physical brakes inside the drum, maybe 50/50, if pics of the trailer look reasonable, perhaps it has been maintained. 2) Wiring and connection to tow vehicle, 25% to be operational with no work. This happens on trailers that get used all the time. From wiring connectors under the rig to corrosion in the plug socket to the wires going to the correct places. 7 way connectors from that era do not match with late model setups and can get more complicated the newer the truck. 3) Tires, for that long a trip I would really want good, recent tires. A couple good pics should show that. This does not sound like a 1 day operation. How good are your mechanical/electrical skills? Are you comfortable jacking up a trailer (do you have a quality floor jack?) and pulling wheels and brake drums? Are you confident you'd know what you're looking at? (Sorry, no way to know that.) Let your conscience and past towing experience guide you in your set-up and always err on the side of caution. Recovery trips are an exciting part of the vintage experience.
Good luck, Mark D

[CamperFan01]

Originally Posted by mrdes8

Hey, welcome to Airstreaming and the forums. I see 3 major areas here... 1) Physical brakes inside the drum, maybe 50/50, if pics of the trailer look reasonable, perhaps it has been maintained. 2) Wiring and connection to tow vehicle, 25% to be operational with no work. This happens on trailers that get used all the time. From wiring connectors under the rig to corrosion in the plug socket to the wires going to the correct places. 7 way connectors from that era do not match with late model setups and can get more complicated the newer the truck. 3) Tires, for that long a trip I would really want good, recent tires. A couple good pics should show that. This does not sound like a 1 day operation. How good are your mechanical/electrical skills? Are you comfortable jacking up a trailer (do you have a quality floor jack?) and pulling wheels and brake drums? Are you confident you'd know what you're looking at? (Sorry, no way to know that.) Let your conscience and past towing experience guide you in your set-up and always err on the side of caution. Recovery trips are an exciting part of the vintage experience.
Good luck, Mark D

All good points. It definitely needs new tires, they are old. I Planned for tires being the first thing I do, either before it moves or within a few miles, I’m not sure last time it was moved. Sounds like a few years, but exterior looks maintained in that time. I’m comfortable doing all the work needed. I’d like to repack the bearings and clean the brake setup and check function before moving it if they would allow it. I fortunately have a friend who loves 40 mins from it, so I’ve already worked it out to spend a day there working on things if needed. Are the standard brake backing plates you get for 12”x2” compatible with the vintage airstreams? I’ve read they are and also that they aren’t. Trying to take as much tools as I think I would need and them some.

Going to get one of these old trailers and getting it home can be fun. Years ago I rescued a 1969 Go Tag Along camper and resto-modded it. It turned out pretty good, took it down to the frame and rebuilt the wood in the walls. But that’s for another forum.

[mrdes8]

Yeah, so, loaded brake backing plates are available that will work with the vintage axles. Used to be able to buy sets of 4 but I haven't had to do that for a few years. One thing that has always surprised me is how past people seem to lose wheel bearing hardware, especially the big outside washer under the main nut. How/where?! At the least I would verify wheel size and bring a set of tires with me, getting them mounted shouldn't be too hard. Sounds like you have a solid plan, Good luck.
Mark D

[Andy543]

You will not need a WD hitch to tow that trailer. Pickup trucks are front-end heavy when unloaded. It takes about 900 lbs. on the hitch ball just to level a F-250. A WD hitch will just put too much weight back onto the front axle, and that's not desirable.

[overlander64]

Originally Posted by mrdes8

At the least I would verify wheel size and bring a set of tires with me, getting them mounted shouldn't be too hard. Sounds like you have a solid plan, Good luck.
Mark D

Standard wheel specifications for 1970 were:

15-inches 6.0-inches
6-Lugs on 5.5-inch Centers
4.25-inch Center Bore
Zero Offset
2,600 Pound Minimum Weight Carrying Rating

Tires, Current sizing Generally Accepted Recommendation:

ST 225 75 R 15 Load Range C

I usually suggest Load Range D for the slight load carrying advantage and nearly 30 years of excellent wear history using tires with this rating on both my 1964 Overlander (29 Years), and 1978 Minuet (22 Years).

Be prepared for the possibility that it may be necessary to deflate the tires to work them into the wheel wells if the axles are worn out or nearly worn out. A captive air tank or portable 12-Volt-DC compressor can be helpful when this becomes necessary.

Good luck with your Ambassador!

Kevin