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Old 06-04-2010, 04:22 PM   #21
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2008 27' Safari FB SE
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Delivery issues

Only my opinion, but the single most important thing you need to learn during the delivery is if the person doing the walk through with you knows anything or not.

Early on, ask them a couple of questions that any competent tech or sales person should know. If they answer both of them wrong, feel free to ask for someone else to go through the walk through or just ignore what they tell you and figure out things by reading the instructions.

This is a service you are paying for (directly or indirectly) so you are entitled to have someone go through it with you that knows what they are talking about.

In my case, I asked the "service technician" if I should leave both dump valves open when I had a site with full hookups. His answer was "yeah, that's fine".

I then asked where I should hook up the breakaway cable on my vehicle. He suggested looping it over the ball.

Needless to say, the walk-through advice provided by him was a waste of my time from that point forward.

The only "defect" we found during the walk through was 1 burned out light bulb. It was replaced.

Over the next 6 months, a few more things cropped up and were fixed under warranty. I don't think very many were a problem during delivery but a couple were just things I missed.

1. Missing lift strut under the bed. Mounting hardware was there so I think it was probably "borrowed" while on the lot at the dealer and not replaced.

2. Grommets in the stove top have been an ongoing issue. They seem to tear pretty easy and fall through the hole in the stove top. Doesn't make the stove any less functional. I think I have replaced 3 of them now after nearly two years of pretty heavy use.

3. The Tappan microwave that was initially in my trailer failed twice under warranty. The manufacturer talked to me after the second one bit the dust within a week of install. That model has been discontinued and they sent a slightly different model. It is about a 1/2 inch taller than the original but otherwise is the same. It has worked flawlessly.

4. Many here have reported leaks at the shower door. I think they may have fixed the problem back in 2007 or 2008. My trailer has never had an issue. On those that do, there is a pretty easily seen gap in the bottom corner of the door frame. It can be caulked if you know to look for it in advance.

5. The front compartment door (behind the propane tanks) on the 27FB as well as several other models has a very high probability for leaking. Nearly every person I have talked to with one of these doors has seen a leak at one point or another. Make sure the gasket doesn't have any gaps. Make sure it isn't twisted or loose. Make sure the door latches are pretty tight. In the end, it is just one of the areas you will need to pay attention to. If you ever see how much water is hitting that area when you tow on a wet road, it will not surprise you to know that there are sometimes leaks.

6. Look carefully at the skylight(s). If you see any cracking at all, they will probably leak. Sometimes the screws are over tightened. Sometimes other factors cause this.

7. Ask the tech to show you what to do if the power jack fails. One of my friends didn't get the manual jack handle for emergency use when he bought his trailer. A blown fuse or jack failure can be a big deal if you need to hook up (or unhook) and don't have the manual crank handle as well as the appropriate hex key for some of the jack heads.

8. As others have noted, the more time you spend in the trailer, the better the chances are of discovering things that might need attention. If you can spend a day or so in close proximity to the dealer it will be handy if you do find anything.

9. I'm a little anal about lug nut torque and tire pressures. Ask the technician to torque the lugs to spec and check the tire pressures while you watch. That way, you will hopefully learn how to do it if you don't know already. At the same time, you will know it is right when you are pulling off the lot for your maiden voyage.

My warranty is about to run out. After two years and lots of miles, I still think that the problems that I have experienced have been truly minor. At the end of the day, we all want perfection. As expensive as things are, we kind of expect it. I doubt they will ever build a "perfect" one though. There is simply too much human involvement in the construction of these things. Robots don't build them. Guys and gals in a small town in Ohio do. Overall, I have been very happy.
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Old 06-04-2010, 06:40 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kidsgone View Post
They wouldn't do anything...we need to replace it soon....I need my popcorn!
Hey, Kidsgone, get a pot with fairly tall sides, pour in cooking oil about one popcorn kernel deep in the pot, drop in two or three kernels of popcorn and heat over high heat. When those kernels start to pop, pour in popcorn to just about two kernels deep. Cover the pan and listen. When the kernels start to pop, start shaking the pan. Keep shaking it until the popping slows. Remove from heat, season to taste and enjoy! You can add a bit of butter and salt to the initial oil if you are so minded.

Stephen

P.S. Heck yeah, its a lot more work, and be sure and clean out your pot with hot water while it is still fairly warm.

Alternative recipe: Replace your microwave.
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Old 06-05-2010, 06:53 PM   #23
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Stephen,
Yes that is my preferred way of making pop corn, but I use olive oil so I don't need the butter. HOWEVER, I have been introduced to Tender White microwave popcorn by Orville and when on the road its easy.....however, my preference is still the old fashioned way!
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Old 06-05-2010, 07:31 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by bob34787 View Post
well if you are picking it up at dealer near tampa (who shall remain nameless) I would suggest making them open all windows, show you how to work everything, look for loose trim everywhere, make them clean it, including the interior aluminum and if they are doing your hitch work, go somewhere and have it re-done
They are installing a PP 3P hitch which, from what I read, is the hardest system to install. That's promising....
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Old 06-05-2010, 08:45 PM   #25
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Great thread and information! I got my new 2009 27FB Flying Cloud in October. Only minor issues so far. The cheap plastic shower door latch got distorted and trapped my wife in the shower. The poop tank sensor constantly shows empty no matter how hard I try to fill it. The batteries were draining during storage and I still can't find out why. I just disconnect the negative cable when I store it. But the strangest thing is a leak from the bathroom vent. I can tow it in pouring rain and the bathroom remains dry. But if it rains during storage and then I move it, about a half cup of water splashes down from the closed vent. Going thru the AS "briefcase" will take some time. It has all the manufacturer's information and it is often necessary to refer some of the manuals. Mine was missing the AS owners. I have mine organized now with a sheet visible from the outside of the plastic cases with a list of what's inside. Play very close attention to the hitch setup as this can make huge differences in your towing experience. Hopefully, you will have someone very knowledgeable about the set up. Don't let them rush thru this. Same thing with the walk thru. Take your time and have it thoroughly explained. Watch the awning demonstration, and then do it a second time yourself. Very important you know how to put it away. By the way, what is your tow vehicle?
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Old 06-05-2010, 08:59 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by hhendrix View Post
great thread and information! I got my new 2009 27fb flying cloud in october. Only minor issues so far. The cheap plastic shower door latch got distorted and trapped my wife in the shower. The poop tank sensor constantly shows empty no matter how hard i try to fill it. The batteries were draining during storage and i still can't find out why. I just disconnect the negative cable when i store it. But the strangest thing is a leak from the bathroom vent. I can tow it in pouring rain and the bathroom remains dry. But if it rains during storage and then i move it, about a half cup of water splashes down from the closed vent. Going thru the as "briefcase" will take some time. It has all the manufacturer's information and it is often necessary to refer some of the manuals. Mine was missing the as owners. I have mine organized now with a sheet visible from the outside of the plastic cases with a list of what's inside. Play very close attention to the hitch setup as this can make huge differences in your towing experience. Hopefully, you will have someone very knowledgeable about the set up. Don't let them rush thru this. Same thing with the walk thru. Take your time and have it thoroughly explained. Watch the awning demonstration, and then do it a second time yourself. Very important you know how to put it away. By the way, what is your tow vehicle?
2011 f350
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Old 06-05-2010, 10:04 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hhendrix View Post
GThe batteries were draining during storage and I still can't find out why. I just disconnect the negative cable when I store it.
If the master is on, you will get a draw from the appliances (even though they are off). If the master is off, the propane detector is still live although that draw is many times less than what you would measure with the master disconnect switch in the on position.

On my '01 Safari I measured .1 draw with master on. With master off the draw was .01 amp hour. Do the math using the amp hour capacity of your battery and you can see why after a number of days in storage, the battery hasn't much left.

What you did short of putting in some type of knife switch is the only way to save the charge.

Jack
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Old 06-06-2010, 12:49 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by hhendrix View Post
The cheap plastic shower door latch got distorted and trapped my wife in the shower.
Funny you should mention that. I just has to get rescued by my wife. I keep bending the damn thing back and in a few days it traps one of us. Another good reason to be married.

Gene
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Old 06-06-2010, 08:08 AM   #29
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don't be afraid of the propride. read this thread:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ide-57179.html
and this one:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ket-42311.html
(after the official guide) and if they don't answer any question you have call sean at PP. his support it excellent!
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Old 06-06-2010, 08:40 AM   #30
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I wonder if there is any way to check for a parasitic drain?

It wasn't until after I installed a Trimetric, that showed a phantom load, that J/C took the time to fix whatever the heck it was...

Walk-through was unproductive.
Dealer (Jim May RV, no longer in business) did a poor job of prepping, and mechanic knew even less about specific Airstream systems than I did (at the time).

Did anyone mention "leaks", yet?

Anyhoo, nothing a few trips to J/C couldn't fix...

I love the posts of folks waiting to take delivery... brings back those memories of goosebumps and excitement...
and the nausea after seeing final invoice
8p
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Old 06-06-2010, 08:47 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Aage View Post
If it will boil water, it will pop corn.

if it won't boil water, well, time to get a different microwave.
It's for real. The OEM Sharp MW doesn't pop bagged popcorn.

It may be because it doesn't ever operate as just a 'microwave'... it "thinks" too much and depending on the mode of operation, the grill or convection cookers kick on...
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Old 06-06-2010, 08:57 AM   #32
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is your microwave, the one that won't pop popcorn a straight micro? or micro/convection?
our '04 Classic Limited has the Sharp R-820JS Grill2 Convection Microwave. Should be the exact same size and pops just fine, in fact has a popcorn button......
should be the same size if your micro is built in under the counter or over the counter. If you have the "pull out" microwave, that's pretty tiny, and this will not fit.
Dan
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Old 06-06-2010, 09:14 AM   #33
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Wow, a lot of new 27FB's hitting the road! We are picking up our new 27FB Flying Cloud in two weeks; this thread is very timely. Thanks for all the advice - this forum, and the people on it, are awesome!

Steve
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Old 06-06-2010, 12:18 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcanavera View Post
If the master is on, you will get a draw from the appliances (even though they are off). If the master is off, the propane detector is still live although that draw is many times less than what you would measure with the master disconnect switch in the on position.

On my '01 Safari I measured .1 draw with master on. With master off the draw was .01 amp hour. Do the math using the amp hour capacity of your battery and you can see why after a number of days in storage, the battery hasn't much left.

What you did short of putting in some type of knife switch is the only way to save the charge.

Jack
Thanks for confirming that. I kind of thought that what it was. I had trouble tracing it, so now I just disconnect the battery.
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Old 06-08-2010, 01:35 PM   #35
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They are installing a PP 3P hitch which, from what I read, is the hardest system to install. That's promising....

Not hard at all. While there may be more "parts" to attach to the frame I wouldn't say it is hard to do.
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Old 06-22-2010, 02:06 PM   #36
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I hope you do not mind me coming on board with this discussion. I am looking at a 27fb and just cannot figure out the "best" tow vehicle. I would like something big enough and safe enough to do the job, but not too big as to over do it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Tom
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Old 06-22-2010, 04:19 PM   #37
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It's for real. The OEM Sharp MW doesn't pop bagged popcorn.

It may be because it doesn't ever operate as just a 'microwave'... it "thinks" too much and depending on the mode of operation, the grill or convection cookers kick on...
Just caught up on this thread. Is the OEM unit a Sharp Grill 2? I understand that they were common in many RVs.

If so, I just added one in my Excella. I will agree that there are a lot of settings. I keep the owner's manual next to mine. The owner's manual says to put an inverted pie plate on the turntable to pop popcorn. Works great.
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Old 06-23-2010, 09:13 PM   #38
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There are a number of available tow vehicles that will work for the 27FB. I have a 2010 Expedition that does the job. I have just ordered a new Ford F250 with the new diesel. MPG is outstanding and it will tow a lot more weight than my Expedition. While I like the Expedition a lot, I just felt I was on the upper end of its capability. I also have a PP hitch. It is absolutely the best thing I could have purchased to toe my AS. You literally can't tell you are towing a trailer. It TOTALLY eliminates trailer sway. Yes, it was expensive. But if you're going to take on towing a trailer, it should be done the safest way possible and PP lets you do that.
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Old 06-23-2010, 10:39 PM   #39
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My trailer had very little wrong at delivery. Like others I improved the adjustment of the hitch. I second the idea to pay very close attention to awning deployment and suggest you have them walk you through it while you do it. Its easy once you get the hang of it but a brief demonstration is not enough.

My trailer was most failure prone in the first year to 18 months. Power converter failed, Sony CD skipped, Dometic fridge spark plug device failed, crank roof vents cracked. Probably my biggest problem was high pressure spikes in the water system when the water heater fired up. The over pressure would force leaks out of the fresh water inlet and out of the pressure relief valve. Water dripped from under shower. It took accumulator device plumbed into water system to fix this. Trailer settled down after first year, but still a trickle of small stuff. The last couple years have concentrated on skylight, AC shroud, shower curtain double sided tape, minor caulking, minor touch up painting, clean water heater mixing tube (spiders), wheel bearing replacement (2), and tire replacement.
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Old 07-11-2010, 11:33 AM   #40
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We too have had a good experience with our recent purchase at Woodland RV. the guys are great and have been super with answering all out questions and fixing a couple minor issues with our 2003 22' AS. Have fun with the new one.
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