What would you expect to pay?

[kenfconnor]

It really is an issue of what you plan to do with it. For 10k you can probably find a solid and cared for 31 that you can use now and improve over time vs a shell off rebuild that will cost you a lot of time and money before it is usable. Your question was what would I pay and my answer is I would not buy it as I would rather spend more up front and be confident of what I was getting.
I have bought 4 airstreams ranging from 1963 to 1981 and 22 to 31 feer so I do have some experience. There are decent trailers with less risk si I would keep looking. But if a full monty project is just something you have to do I would have a hard stop at 3k but probably not be happy above $1,5k.

[MAHofer]

Originally Posted by Acheron2010

I would expect to be paid $100 to take it off their property.

Otherwise several hundred plus the cost of the undoubtedly necessary new tires so that it can actually be moved (assuming the brakes have not rusted solid). Will be at least a year before you can use it. Rather pay to have something useable!

[uncle_bob]

Hi

I think a lot of us are sort of hinting at the same question:

What do you want to do?

That needs to be answered long before price comes into the picture.

Is a couple of years / many hours a week DIY rebuild project what you are looking for? Are you planning on camping later this year? Is there a max budget? Are you simply looking to flip the trailer? Is this a gut job to get your dream layout? Is it a "restore to original" deal? Will the final result be stationary or mobile?

Lots of directions this could go.

Bob

[D. Novak]

If you are undeterred after looking at the project that is ahead of you, (those pictures tell a story), the project ahead can be quite frustrating and quite rewarding. We bought a 27 ft 1976 over lander with tire blowout damage and significant interior poorly executed “remodeling”. With the resources available on the internet, especially this site, we were able to overcome many setbacks and hurdles in its restoration. We did not have to do a shell off but did do a complete gut of the interior. We were camping in it after about 8 months, but 4 years later we still have items on the to-do list to complete the project.
If you pursue this, be honest with yourself but don’t be afraid to push your limits. You will be amazed by what you learn taking on a project like this.

[bibbs]

Money spent is soon forgotten! You will be an expert in no time! Go for it. If you just clean it up, and it’s overwhelming, you could flip it. Then find a better one.

[dcasr]

Originally Posted by Aces

Hi!

I’m interested in some input of what you might consider reasonable to pay for this gal. 1976 31’ Center bath

If you can ignore the mossy exterior, which I know will clean right up.
Nothing that seems like much damage on the exterior. No big dents or dings, windows seem good.

The interior has mold and plenty of previous rodent tenants and is really pretty cruddy. Electric and all that is shot. It has been sitting for quite sometime, ten years I believe, on a concrete pad, under a big ol tree.

I’d like to assume worst case scenario on the bits that I can’t see or don’t know about, and fully expect an extensive redo. It lives only .2 miles away. Any opinions are appreciated!
Thanks in advance

_______________

As others have said, "What do you want to do with it finally?" If you want a go-down-the-road Airstream to pull to rallies, go on a caravan or two, and really use, you will need to spend a ton of money and time to get to that point.

You really won't know about many of the issues raised by responders until you have it home and partially take it apart. How much disassembly will the current owner allow you to do to investigate its' condition? With an ice pick you could poke the floor all around the interior perimeter looking for soft spots or complete penetration. If the floor is a huge problem it becomes a frame-off job and that is a large time and money and space situation.

If you buy it and its a worst-case-disaster you might not find another buyer to sell it to. So if its a worst-initial-case, how much money can you afford to walk away from, wash your hands, and go out to supper? Are you OK with walking away from your purchase price of $500, or $1,000, or $3,000? I would offer $500 or $1,000 at most, but not more, but what could you live with walking away from after paying for it? (Hopefully the seller has a valid title!?).

Then you start doing an analysis at your home of frame, frame struts, heck everything. How much of the work can you do? If you are handy with that kind of work it might work, but if you have to pay for everything to be done by an expert, you'll burn through money at lightning speed. You probably should replace the axles, and with that comes new brakes. You'd need new tires and probably want new rims to get the AS to somewhere the axles could be installed AND ALIGNED. The list goes on and on. The front of the AS looks like sunburn, not just dirt. That probably means having someone strip the remaining clear coat, clean/polish, and re-clear coat. That's $5,000 to $8,000 right there for a reputable, experienced dealer like P&S in Helena, OH.

Frankly, I'd save my money and look for an AS that meets your needs and is in reasonably good and already usable condition. Enough goes wrong and has to be replaced on a good unit that has been kept up. But again, don't put any more money into the purchase than you would put on the 21-table at Vegas; if you can afford to lose it and still be Ok, then have an adventure. Best wishes.
+dcasr

[Aces]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

I think a lot of us are sort of hinting at the same question:

What do you want to do?

That needs to be answered long before price comes into the picture.

Is a couple of years / many hours a week DIY rebuild project what you are looking for? Are you planning on camping later this year? Is there a max budget? Are you simply looking to flip the trailer? Is this a gut job to get your dream layout? Is it a "restore to original" deal? Will the final result be stationary or mobile?

Lots of directions this could go.

Bob

That’s a very important question, one that I should have included an answer to originally!
The final result is a little open-ended, but I DON’T have any intention of returning it to an RV (tanks, appliances, etc, all would be gone and not returning.)
It would be a plus, just for convenience if it were mobile without fear of collapse, and honestly I wouldn’t feel comfortable just leaving the frame/wheels/axels in crap condition even if it were never going to move again anyway, so I would like to put that work in regardless.

My understanding is it’s not a particularly “valuable” trailer due to its size. If it were something more rare and interesting to anyone but me, I definitely would be more keen to restore rather than just using it for alternative reasons, but that’s not the case.

So I guess the real question is, is it worth it to drop the 3k on essentially just a shell just because I feel like it would clean up nice and I would (hopefully) enjoy the process?
The location is a very large part of the appeal as well.

I have asked because I genuinely don’t have a clue what anything is really worth.
I’ll see a guide say something like $1,800 but then I can’t find something comparable under $6,000 that would also include a significant haul. So confusing!

I’m really impressed with everyone’s knowledge and experience and I thank you

[Foiled Again]

Originally Posted by Aces

That’s a very important question, one that I should have included an answer to originally!
The final result is a little open-ended, but I DON’T have any intention of returning it to an RV (tanks, appliances, etc, all would be gone and not returning.)
It would be a plus, just for convenience if it were mobile without fear of collapse, and honestly I wouldn’t feel comfortable just leaving the frame/wheels/axels in crap condition even if it were never going to move again anyway, so I would like to put that work in regardless.

My understanding is it’s not a particularly “valuable” trailer due to its size. If it were something more rare and interesting to anyone but me, I definitely would be more keen to restore rather than just using it for alternative reasons, but that’s not the case.

So I guess the real question is, is it worth it to drop the 3k on essentially just a shell just because I feel like it would clean up nice and I would (hopefully) enjoy the process?
The location is a very large part of the appeal as well.

I have asked because I genuinely don’t have a clue what anything is really worth.
I’ll see a guide say something like $1,800 but then I can’t find something comparable under $6,000 that would also include a significant haul. So confusing!

I’m really impressed with everyone’s knowledge and experience and I thank you

Good to see that you realize that even if you want it as a pool cabana, you can't ignore a crap frame. The monoque design (aka "unibody") means that the frame is very light weight, and could be so rusted that it could break just from walking around on it... and the rotten floor would HAVE to be removed and replaced jist to get rid of the stench of critter urine. Afterwards you could mount the body on a deck of some sort, but you will also have to pull the interior skins to remove the fouled insulation and rewire.
Buy a good respirator.
You are jumping into the deep end of the pool... and you ARE a first timer. And if you don't want a working trailer to travel in, it is equally reasonable to pay enough to get (A) an empty shell with the frame and floor work done, or (B) a well cared for unit that needs cosmetics, or (C) USE what you have learned from these responses AND read a few "shell off" stories then play hardball.

The owner let it rot for 10 years.
Why should you pay for his neglect?
Does he actually have a clear legal title? No? Run, don't walk away.
It is worth max $500 if he won't drop the belly pan, or let you do it, so you can inspect the frame, and also prove that the wheels still roll.

Since you are a newbie, it would be a great idea to look for help from a volunteer inspector in your area.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Indeed if it is destined for a fixed location, the frame and floor still need to be fixed. The delta is that you can take a few shortcuts if it's not going on the road. Not having to get axles / brakes / A frame all into great shape simplifies things more than a little.

That said, you still need to transport it to wherever. In it's current shape and with the existing unknowns ... yikes. Even a short pull across town is not something I would look forward to.

Bob

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Another way to look at this is the "delivered price". How much out of pocket will it be to get it to your "shop" to work on it? In this case gas and travel to get to the seller are not a big deal. In the case of a seller 500 miles away they might be. Even at 10 MPG and $3 a gallon, the 1,000 mile round trip is only $300 (yes food and lodging would come in).

How good do the tires need to be to run less than a mile down the road? Well, not as good as they need to run 500 miles down the road. Same thing with brakes / axles / bearings.

You could extend that to the frame and floor. A lot depends on just how rugged the roads are and how much pulling it's going to take to get out of the storage location. You do *not* want to pull the front end off the trailer getting it moving. Given that I have never heard of anybody actually doing that the chances are pretty remote. The video would do well on YouTube though

Lights, and the like (maybe even a license plate .... yikes ....) are the sort of thing that a lot of people would chance on a one mile drive. (Does the route go past the police station? ) No it's not safe / legal / good to do so. On a 500 mile drive, I've never met anybody who would chance it. I'm sure that simply is an indication that I don't have enough friends ....

Indeed this is trading cost now for cost later in the case of a trailer that will go on the road. In the case of something that will become a very nice spare room, those all are real costs. They don't really get into "what should you pay" to the seller. They are very much part of what you are paying out of pocket.

Bob

[rucos]

Since your only moving it basically 1000ft done the road from a neighbours place I dont see you having a big issue. If its going to be a cabin in your back yard I would jack up each side and check how the wheels are for moving.... you probably have a good chance that everything would be fine for a 3block move (no main roads/hwy!!) ....early sunday morning move?....maybe you have to pick up a cheap set of used tires.
Once there you really dont been to worry about ...axles/brakes/tires as you will probably block it up.... also tanks...converter...inverter (all power from city?)...if the fridge is shot you can buy a small walmart one cheap.... even the frame floor could be minimal work as its never being moved..... does your cabin vision even need a stove?....shower(come in the house??)
My friend has an old airstream about 28ft that she put on her property as a cabin....roof and deck added so no water worries.... she uses house furniture inside and even added a small addition with a toilet . Its the favorite place for her guests to stay at and everyone loves it.
Even if you have to have it moved by a flat deck you are going to have a cool cabin for a reasonable price.
This is a totally different project than rebuilding for towable travel unit !! .... Id love to have one as a cabin/office outside my house.