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12-01-2014, 09:11 PM
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#81
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2 Rivet Member
2013 19' International
Pukekohe
, Auckland
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 23
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Your freight company should be shot, even though ours was damaged I think flat rack is the better option. I did hear a story of an airstream arriving here in NZ in a container with not one straight panel. There is no room in that container what were they thinking grrrrrrrh
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12-01-2014, 09:17 PM
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#82
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3 Rivet Member
1960 24' Tradewind
Heyfield
, Victoria
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 143
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I agree! As I said, they talked me into it and assumed mention was a safe option. I trusted that they had more experience than me and went with it. All the while stressing the importance of the panels being safe. Lesson learnt. Pay a bit extra for peace of mind...
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12-01-2014, 09:40 PM
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#83
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3 Rivet Member
1960 24' Tradewind
Heyfield
, Victoria
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 143
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Assumed mention? Should have said assured me it was...oops.
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12-01-2014, 09:43 PM
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#84
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GlamperGirl
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 377
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Crazy iPhone auto correct
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12-01-2014, 10:59 PM
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#85
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3 Rivet Member
1960 24' Tradewind
Heyfield
, Victoria
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 143
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I have sooo many questions! And after spending some more time with her today, I feel like it'll be ok. I just wish my husband could retire so we can start... Haha
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12-02-2014, 05:52 AM
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#86
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Rivet Master
2007 Interstate
Normal
, Illinois
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 18,051
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They really did a job on it, didn't they.
I would certainly get online with your shipping company, provide pictures and a written complaint to their powers-that-be, and do a thorough review.
May save someone else.
It is fixable, tho, focus on that and get back to your dreams.
Maggie
__________________
🏡 🚐 Cherish and appreciate those you love. This moment could be your last.🌹🐚
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12-02-2014, 07:55 AM
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#87
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Rivet Master
1973 Argosy 24
Kitchener
, Ontario
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 945
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Make sure your complaints go to the top of the hierarchy. Plumbers rule applies here as in STUFF flows downhill.
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12-09-2014, 07:01 PM
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#88
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3 Rivet Member
1960 24' Tradewind
Heyfield
, Victoria
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 143
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I feel SO overwhelmed! I can't get the damaged panels replaced till February. I'm assuming it would be easier for them to replace if the interior panels were out. In trying to figure out what I CAN do in the meantime, but the reality of being a female with a toddler in tow and two other kids leaves me with little time to spend on the airstream. Where do I start? I thought of working on the hitch and the bumper, since it's within my skillset and doesn't affect the other work to be done. Any suggestions?
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12-09-2014, 07:30 PM
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#89
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
1957 30' Sovereign of the Road
1959 28' Ambassador
1949 24' Limited
Peru
, New York
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amysemmens
I feel SO overwhelmed! I can't get the damaged panels replaced till February. I'm assuming it would be easier for them to replace if the interior panels were out. In trying to figure out what I CAN do in the meantime, but the reality of being a female with a toddler in tow and two other kids leaves me with little time to spend on the airstream. Where do I start? I thought of working on the hitch and the bumper, since it's within my skillset and doesn't affect the other work to be done. Any suggestions?
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It looks like the damage occurred when they pushed the trailer into the container.
Vintage Trailer Supply - parts and supplies for vintage travel trailers and campers! has the correct drip edge for the baggage hatch & it looks like your door hinge could be straightened. The new drip edge will however need to be stripped, as no supplier has the period correct parts in bare aluminum.
Door handles can be pricy, even for a used one. Sadly they are obsolete now, so pricing has gone berserk lately. You might be better off sourcing one locally. Probably something from a house or perhaps a boat.
As far as the panel replacements go, yes you need to remove the interior skin in order to do it correctly, & bring it back to the original strength of the semi monocoque structure. Use solid or "buck" rivets (tools & rivets available through Vintage Trailer Supply) & do not use Olympic rivets, as they do not have the same clamping force or shear strength of the original "bucked" rivets. Although panel replacement may sound daunting, it's really a matter of drilling out all of the rivets that hold the damaged panel in place, then using it as a pattern to fabricate a new one, rivet holes included. Make sure you use 2024 T3 Alclad .032" thick, available through Pilot Supplies and Aircraft Parts from Aircraft Spruce , AirParts.com - Home Page & probably locally at an aircraft service facility or through a knowledgable aluminum supplier.
I'm very sorry to hear of your misfortune, but keep your chin up, it'll just get better from now on.
Colin
PS I lived in OZ in the early 80's for a year & a half & hitch hiked virtually all of the way around it. It was a wonderful time in my life, which I will never forget.
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12-09-2014, 07:39 PM
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#90
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3 Rivet Member
1960 24' Tradewind
Heyfield
, Victoria
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 143
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Thank you Colin! Thankfully most of the expensive items are covered on insurance. I'm more in the mindset of "what can I do in the meantime?" We plan to rewrite and reinsulate, so removing the interior is no big deal, but I don't want to remove it too early, and obviously can't start the interior till it's repaired and the interior panels are back in place. I'm just itching to get started and don't know where to start. I will put an order in with VTS soon for the lights and a few other things, but as you may have guessed I'm impatient and the damage has now held us up by 3 months or more.
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12-09-2014, 07:49 PM
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#91
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
1957 30' Sovereign of the Road
1959 28' Ambassador
1949 24' Limited
Peru
, New York
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amysemmens
Thank you Colin! Thankfully most of the expensive items are covered on insurance. I'm more in the mindset of "what can I do in the meantime?" We plan to rewrite and reinsulate, so removing the interior is no big deal, but I don't want to remove it too early, and obviously can't start the interior till it's repaired and the interior panels are back in place. I'm just itching to get started and don't know where to start. I will put an order in with VTS soon for the lights and a few other things, but as you may have guessed I'm impatient and the damage has now held us up by 3 months or more.
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Why does it have to take 3 months to fix? If you don't feel comfortable fixing it, make sure it is done by someone qualified to repair Aircraft, as your local Caravan Repair Shop/Dealer will definitely not be capable to do it correctly.
Colin
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12-09-2014, 07:52 PM
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#92
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3 Rivet Member
1960 24' Tradewind
Heyfield
, Victoria
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 143
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It's being fixed my Airstream Australia, and they can't get the panels till feb
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12-09-2014, 08:02 PM
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#93
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
1957 30' Sovereign of the Road
1959 28' Ambassador
1949 24' Limited
Peru
, New York
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amysemmens
It's being fixed my Airstream Australia, and they can't get the panels till feb
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Although they may be a dealer (& not for long), they don't need to "get the panels", as these panels are made from flat sheets & are not Airstream specific. I have been doing this for a long time, & all of the damage that you have shown in photos is repairable by a skilled craftsman. As a side note, Airstream hasn't used the aluminum alloy in production that you require for over 30 years. If they are trying to tell you they need to source it from the Factory, they are just "pulling your chain". If your endcaps are damaged, they can be fixed by a craftsman with an English Wheel, as Airstream doesn't even make the endcap segments for your era of trailer.
Colin
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12-10-2014, 04:54 AM
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#94
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3 Rivet Member
1960 24' Tradewind
Heyfield
, Victoria
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 143
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Thanks Colin, I am also planning to contact a company tomorrow who do aircraft fabrication. Since this is covered by insurance, I really don't mind what the cost is to them, I just don't want to be kept waiting. I agree with you about airstream tho, and the only reason I asked them to quote was so they could just source everything. If I take it to an engineer etc I will need to source the parts and add this in to the quote, which is just more time than I have. Having said that, I have found a lot of things I need on VTS, and am now looking at Airstream supply as well as some things are out of stock.
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12-10-2014, 06:12 AM
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#95
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Rivet Master
2007 Interstate
Normal
, Illinois
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 18,051
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You have a wonderful resource here in Colin H, and I'm sure others will chime in.
We liked to take morning coffee out into ours, particularly the first RV in 2002, to sip and dream, sip and dream, even while we were readying it for the road.
Deep breaths, it will all come together.
Maggie
__________________
🏡 🚐 Cherish and appreciate those you love. This moment could be your last.🌹🐚
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12-10-2014, 06:15 AM
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#96
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3 Rivet Member
1960 24' Tradewind
Heyfield
, Victoria
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 143
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Thanks Lily, I've had my pity party/hissy fit and I'm all good now. I've found a lot of parts online and am making calls over the next few days to local engineers so fingers crossed. Mornings here resemble chaos but once the kids are off school and the weather improves (we've had a very wet start to summer!) I pan on spending more time outside. And definitely a cuppa or two or maybe even a cheeky wine 😉
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12-10-2014, 07:04 AM
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#97
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Rivet Master
1999 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Hillsboro
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 6,406
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Miss Amy...
You will need "marine grade" wiring to 'rewire'... this is 'multi-stranded' wire capable of surviving a lot of 'flexing' which happens in all trailers. DO NOT use 'SOLID' wire...
Try to 'map out' where all the electrical items go... and make a 'schematic' or 'wiring diagram' of what you currently have.
You can make 2 separate drawings.. 1- AC , 2-DC... Those are the wiring circuits you have to deal with.
Next, what 'voltage' are you running in Australia? Is it 120VAC (Volts Alternating Current) or 208VAC? Wiring will need to 'match', of course.. we run 120VAC here in U.S.A.
Start making a list of each circuit wiring you plan to use.. you can get the 'incidentals' like wire, grommets and wiring connectors locally.
Start figuring out how the plumbing runs. Make a diagram or two.. one will be the supply, the other waste.
Will you be installing 'Solar'? Time to get a plan for wiring of that, too... including the 'control'
Have you decided how you want to manage airflow? Fan in roof, Heater, AC? Plan layout... get parts...
What about your skylight? Maxim is the way to go...
Yes, you can work on the bumper, tongue.. etc..
Yes, you can work on the 'running gear'....
Have fun!
__________________
Peace and Blessings..
Channing
WBCCI# 30676
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12-10-2014, 08:17 AM
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#98
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
1957 30' Sovereign of the Road
1959 28' Ambassador
1949 24' Limited
Peru
, New York
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwf
Miss Amy...
You will need "marine grade" wiring to 'rewire'... this is 'multi-stranded' wire capable of surviving a lot of 'flexing' which happens in all trailers. DO NOT use 'SOLID' wire...
Try to 'map out' where all the electrical items go... and make a 'schematic' or 'wiring diagram' of what you currently have.
You can make 2 separate drawings.. 1- AC , 2-DC... Those are the wiring circuits you have to deal with.
Next, what 'voltage' are you running in Australia? Is it 120VAC (Volts Alternating Current) or 208VAC? Wiring will need to 'match', of course.. we run 120VAC here in U.S.A.
Start making a list of each circuit wiring you plan to use.. you can get the 'incidentals' like wire, grommets and wiring connectors locally.
Start figuring out how the plumbing runs. Make a diagram or two.. one will be the supply, the other waste.
Will you be installing 'Solar'? Time to get a plan for wiring of that, too... including the 'control'
Have you decided how you want to manage airflow? Fan in roof, Heater, AC? Plan layout... get parts...
What about your skylight? Maxim is the way to go...
Yes, you can work on the bumper, tongue.. etc..
Yes, you can work on the 'running gear'....
Have fun!
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Solid wire has been used in Airstream (& likely all other travel trailers) trailers AC wiring for over 60 years, that I know of. We have never seen it fail, except for mice chewing it . Many Airstream's from 67 & 68 have aluminum solid aluminum wiring, which can cause problems. Solid copper wire will be fine, as long as you have grommets every time it passes through a rib or interior skin panel. Although Australia (& much of the world) use 240 volts AC, the amperage is half what it would be here for a normal household circuit.
Colin
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12-10-2014, 09:32 AM
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#99
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Rivet Master
1972 31' Sovereign
1975 31' Excella 500
Currently Looking...
Benton
, Arkansas
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 5,868
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My dreamstream on its way across the pond the Australia!!
I think solid core wire is just fine, but I have read that stranded wire is a requirement for trailers in OZ and NZ.
It is my understanding that they actually inspect the wire also.
1/2 Ton 4WD Truck, 72 Sovereign Hensley Arrow
__________________
The fact that I am opinionated does not presuppose that I am wrong......
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12-11-2014, 04:46 AM
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#100
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3 Rivet Member
1960 24' Tradewind
Heyfield
, Victoria
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 143
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Thanks everyone for the input! I'll leave the wiring to the pros...and stck within my limited capabilities, which include making food and drinks while my husband does the bulk of it 😉 Not entirely true...but almost. Not by choice tho!
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