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66Overlander · 10-01-2009, 07:15 PM

Thanks for the kind comments guys.

We've hit the point of no return. It's too late to turn back now.

I got some photos from the welder today. The old tongue is off and the new tongue is has been made on a flat plate and is waiting to be welded on.

In the "old tongue" photo, you will see that there was almost nothing left of the front cross member to which the front plate was bolted. We got to it just in the nick of time. There wasn't much holding the front of the body down.

And interesting observation is that the wall thickness of my frame is less than for dragn'wagons '56 Cruiser/Overlander. Maybe that explains the factory angle iron that was welded in the wheel well area for reinforcement over the axle on the '55's (including mine) but not '56's (at least according to a few trailers examined so far). (See last photo in post #30: http://www.airforums.com/forums/734686-post30.html)

slowmover · 10-02-2009, 06:21 AM

Until reading this it hadn't stuck in mind that there were front kitchen A/S from these years. I think you're doing it the way I would, and I look forward to more.

Sugarfoot · 10-06-2009, 09:17 PM

Joe, I see what you mean about no turning back. You're in it whole hog now. Interesting about the frame differences from '55 to '56. Wasn't '56 was the first year they added a full 2" of insulation as well? That's going to be a great looking trailer again when you are through. Love the fridge you picked up.

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyfshr

Moving right along and looks like the Pacer fridge is an improvement. If there are no other takers, I'm interested in the ceiling light.

Brad
FF

OK Brad, so you beat me to it. Looks like an original '60 ceiling fixture is still on my Tradewind wish list.

Maybe we can cut a deal.

66Overlander · 10-06-2009, 10:15 PM

I can't say anything about insulation as we haven't pulled any of the interior skins yet on my trailer yet, but Dave's '56 did seem to have pretty thick insulation.

As for the ceiling light, I can't say whether I'll reuse it until next year, but I'll be happy to make it available to someone that can use it if I end up not needing it.

Ideally I'd like the lamp to go to a "correct" application, because original parts are so hard to come by. I assume that it is correct for any 1960 Airstream, but it likely isn't exactly correct for some or all 1959 Airstreams, which I think had different shaped ceiling lights (at least most that I have seen appeared different, but there always could be anomalies or mid-year changes). That might give you an edge, but I also do think "first come, first served" is a valid selection process.

66Overlander · 01-26-2010, 07:09 PM

Here is a long overdue update. Just before Christmas the welder sent me some photos of the Safari. First is one showing the new tongue installed. Second is one showing the new torsion axle installed, and third is one showing the new rear frame horns prepared for a new rear bumper.

I need to call him soon and maybe stop by and see how far we are from being ready to start the body-on floor replacement. I can't wait to get that done so that I can get on to planning and preparing for updates to the electrical and plumbing systems.

Jabba · 01-27-2010, 04:39 AM

Glad to see you are making progress, something very difficult to do around here this time of year!

drag'nwagon · 01-27-2010, 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 66Overlander

Here is a long overdue update. Just before Christmas the welder sent me some photos of the Safari. First is one showing the new tongue installed. Second is one showing the new torsion axle installed, and third is one showing the new rear frame horns prepared for a new rear bumper.

I need to call him soon and maybe stop by and see how far we are from being ready to start the body-on floor replacement. I can't wait to get that done so that I can get on to planning and preparing for updates to the electrical and plumbing systems.

Bob keeps pestering me to get him a "tracing" or lengths and radii for your bumper Joe. I promise I will get that to him in the next week.

66Overlander · 01-27-2010, 06:37 PM

I talked with Bob today and he says everything is done except for the bumper In addition to the tongue and axle, all frame reinforcement and the step outriggers are done. Yeah. Bob told me all he needs is the dimensions and tracing to get a new bumper fabricated.

The bad news is that he might be moving to a new facility soon, so I may not be able to get the floor done before he has to move. Time to move into hyper-mode. I'm going to stop by on Saturday to inspect the trailer and probably remove more of the interior to get it ready for the floor replacement, in the hope that there is some chance of replacing the floor before pulling it home. It's probably a pipe dream, but I gotta try.

Oh yeah, one more decision is whether I should get new aluminum and button up the belly pan (temporarily) before pulling it home. I know I'll need to open it back up as I complete the restoration, but it may be easier to fit it in the shop rather than on the ground in my driveway.

BarryIowa · 01-28-2010, 05:45 AM

Hey Joe,
This is looking very good. I can't wait until spring when I can hit it hard again on my 55 Flying Cloud.

drag'nwagon · 01-29-2010, 09:54 AM

Joe,

I am not convinced that Bob is moving anywhere! If they are going to move it will be up to Marysville.....maybe, but not immediately.

66Overlander · 01-30-2010, 11:36 PM

Lorrie and I visited the '55 Safari today (Saturday). It was great to see the frame stronger that it was new. We did find that there were many holes cut in the floor and two large sections removed to allow access to the frame during the repair process. One removed section was near the door and one at the back, but to be truthful, the rear floor mostly fell out.

Regarding the frame, we found that in addition to the new tongue being joined to the old frame maybe four feet behind the front skin, the last two feet going to the bumper were replaced, too. And the frame rails were reinforced almost the entire length and about half a dozen outriggers were replaced. New step outriggers were fabricated from C-channel stock! The step works perfectly and those have to be the stoutest step outriggers ever used on an Airstream! They don't flex!

The large sections of missing floor basically mean that I need to get the floor replaced before moving it. And I think I need to get the new belly pan temporarily screwed on, too, because the remaining areas that wrap the outriggers are no longer supported from below. Toward this end, Lorrie and I spent a few hours removing more of the Safari interior today. We got the water tank, water heater, water pump, dinette, credenza, 2/3's of each bed, nightstand, and closet doors out. That filled the van, so we stopped for the day.

We will plan to remove the rest of the interior next Saturday, which means bathroom walls and counter, kitchen cabinet structure, closet walls, and last parts of the beds - the hope is to leave the roof lockers and bunk bed in place. If time permits, we will also start pulling the lower inner skins. Then I need to bribe friends to help us replace the floor, hopefully the following weekend (hint, hint).

I got lots of photos today, but haven't had time to download, sort and reduce them yet I'll try to get a few photos posted tomorrow.

66Overlander · 01-31-2010, 07:25 PM

Here are some photos of the frame from yesterday. This first batch will show some of the excellent frame repairs that were done. First is the missing floor from the door forward showing the reinforced frame. Then are a couple of photos showing the new heavy duty step outriggers. Then are a couple of closeups showing the old reinforced frame joined to the new A-frame and joined to the new rear frame. Them a closeup of the new axle, reinforced frame and a new outrigger in the wheel well area. Finally a rusty old outrigger that was replaced.

66Overlander · 01-31-2010, 09:00 PM

OK, here are the interior photos. Actually the first one just shows the Safari still up in the air on saw horses in the shop.

The next photo shows the stainless water tank and air pump that were under the front dinette base. The tank hold-down straps seem to fit and have the original Zolatone color on them. Anyone think that a stainless tank could be original? I don't, but it was a nice setup, when likely modified in the 60's or early 70's.

Next are four views of the current state of the interior after everything we removed yesterday showing a little more to go next weekend.

The last two shots are of some photos we found wedged between the closet wall and one of the beds. They will have to find a place in the trailer once it is finally restored. Just in case anyone out there knows anyone in the photos, the one on the left is identified on the back as "1965 Paul Winsor". On the right is a card from some game I am not familiar with. The undated photo in the middle actually has a "City Jail" sticker on it. On the bottom are the hand written words "Class Grade 8". On the back are written the names of the children in the photo:
"Left to Right
Joan Maguire
Buddy MacLellan
Brett Healey
Blair Macumber (or maybe Blain)
Ellen Kirduff (or maybe Kilduff or Kerduff)
Mark Pyor
Jody MacKnight
Barbara O'brien
Gail McNeill"

Please let me know if you know any of these people.

goransons · 01-31-2010, 09:28 PM

going to reuse that stainless tank? Man that thing has lots of windows. Great to see you have that frame work behind you. Did I read right that you're going to do plywood indoors? Lucky dog!

66Overlander · 02-06-2010, 08:06 PM

Spent several hours today removing more of the interior.

Got the rest of the bed and the Barnes heater out to reveal the missing floor in the cargo area. Also took out the kitchen cabinet structure. The bath was a true puzzle to be solved as things had to come out in a very specific order (at least they did since I want to reuse them). That took a lot longer than anticipated, so the closet remains in place, perhaps to be removed next Saturday. And the filth we worked in - 55 years of mouse poo and other dust and grim - it was disgusting.

Next Saturday I hope to start removing inner skins on either the front or rear and start the floor replacement there. This week I'll have to start procuring new plywood for the floor, fasteners to secure the floor to the frame, paint to seal the edges of the plywood, etc.. Lots to think about (e.g. 5/8" or 3/4" plywood, etc.).

InsideOut · 02-06-2010, 08:53 PM

LOVE the pictures...great find! It would be very cool to find someone in them...

Shari

toastie · 02-07-2010, 05:28 AM

Keep posting the pictures, looking good Joe............toastie

BarryIowa · 02-07-2010, 08:22 AM

Hi Joe,
Your awesome project is coming along nicely!!

66Overlander · 02-07-2010, 08:45 AM

By the way, I need to acknowledge that Lorrie has been my indispensable helper in all of the dismantling. She is a real trooper helping me remove items and sometimes just holding the light at the right angle so I can see that hard to find screw or rivet. This is a real team effort!

66Overlander · 02-10-2010, 09:14 PM

Time between weekends is time for shopping and planning. This week has been spent researching floor materials. After visiting a local "upscale" lumber yard and also Lowes and Home Depot, I have decided to go with 5/8" ACX plywood for the floors at about $42/sheet. Much cheaper than marine plywood and much better than typical CDX plywood.

For those that don't know, the ABCD part is the rating of the surface quality of the outer layers of the plywood, with A being best (no imperfections) and D worst (open knot holes etc.). The first letter is the "finished" side and the second is the "unfinished" side. After inspecting plywood at the yard there are other differences too. The ACX has far less voids visible at the edges of the interior layers than CDX. That means less voids throughout and therefore more strength and less places for water intrusion issues to begin. And the "X" indicates that the glue used to hold the layers together is water resistant.

I have also decided to bite the bullet and seal the edges of the plywood with epoxy resin from West Marine. After checking all sorts of wood sealers and paints, I found the epoxy drying time to be similar to most quality paints (6-8 hours, depending upon temperature), but it has better penetration and sealing qualities, although it is definitely harder to work with and more expensive. I will probably put a coat of paint of some sort over top of the epoxy once it hardens up as another layer of protection. I only intend to seal maybe the outer 4 to 6 inches of the plywood rather than the entire sheet, with the rational being that if the floor does get wet (through a screw hole, etc.), I want it to be able to wick away and dry out. I don't want 100% epoxy coverage to seal the water in and accelerate the rot process.

The plan for this coming Saturday has changed. The top priority is to get the new floor pieces measured and cut to shape while Lorrie and I are at the trailer. We will then bring them home where I can seal the edges throughout next week and then be ready to install them the following Saturday or the one after that. If we have time left over this Saturday after measuring and cutting the floor, we will spend it removing the closet and/or some inner skins and/or some of the floor.

That's it for today. Wish us luck.