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Old 08-16-2008, 01:31 PM   #21
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2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
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Virginia Beach , Virginia
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If you read enough restoration threads, you'll find comments about braces being "cut to size with a hatchet" and other assorted design flaws in even the hoariest of Airstreams. Wally is dead and has been for a long time.

Even while Wally lived he was in business to make a profit. Still, you can bet that any trailer he owned was better made than any he sold. The reality today? These trailers are still hand built - and hand built in a world where 21st century robots could do a better job of riveting than the best humans. Wally built trailers for people who drove 40-50mph. That isn't our world at all is it? Stuff does shake loose. And yes, there ARE a lot of inappropriate screws used too! Centramatics ARE probably a great idea to reduce vibration.

Everything takes maintenance. Take a look at the great pyramids of Egypt... and take a look at 100 year old photos of them... you'll see that their decay is accelerating - polution and vandalism.

I bought refrigerator bars... which BTW work in overhead cabinets too. I got the little childproof hooks at IKEA and put them in every drawer, cursed at them horribly for a week, then it became habit to use the thumb the same way I do on the refrigerator door.

Loose screws? The Elmer's glue and toothpick trick does work well, and if you don't have a wooden toothpick, saturate a little piece of paper towel with the glue, cram, and screw.... any wood by-product like paper should work on MDF shouldn't it?

Watch out for the Safari overhead doors - they aren't even MDF or chipboard. Its a foam core with some kind of plastic skin. I took one of the front side covers off because there was something rattling around by a speaker - it was rigidly installed with two screws (from the back) and three staples. I knew I couldn't reinstall it that way, so I velcroed it back on and that's worked perfectly. (If I were younger and less law abiding I'd probably hide my stash in there. Sorry, Cheech & Chong moment.)

I really wish all of the drawers and doors had come with the little push button release that's on the pantry. BUT have you ever seen an SOB that's had 30K on it? Try to find one, then IF you do, try to find one that's even worth doing a frame off restoration on!

If Airstream decides to have another HOMECOMING why don't you all come and we'll take over the factory for a day or two and we can build ME a custom 27' CCD FB Okay?

Paula
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Old 08-16-2008, 02:41 PM   #22
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We have an 06 19' Safari SE...there is one screw that seemed to want to unscrew regulalry...and we solved the problem by filling the hole with toothpicks and re-screwing them...so far so good... Having owned another RV (SOB) we know that towing will loosen things, so we periodically go through the unit and tighten screws...it's a maintenance thing...if you have a problem screw, replace it with a more appropriate screw and/or fill the hole and re-screw... We have far fewer problems like this in the AS than we did with the SOB by the way... we had to rebuild all the drawer tracks on the SOB...talk about a pain is the a**...
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Old 11-17-2012, 08:58 AM   #23
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1984 27' Airstream 270
Scotia , New York
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This thread is a bit dated, but so is my 83 Excella 270. I am working on fixing the overhead cabinet doors. The door assemblies are screwed to plywood strips that were glued to the plastic cabinet framework. The glue on many of the doors has come loose. It looks like someone tried to use silicone to re-glue them, but it did not mate well to the materials. The plywood has a red coating on the glued side and the silicone did not stick to it.
What is a recommendation to reattach the plywood to the plastic frame?
I have TremPro 635 available, but I am not sure if it is the best solution.

PS: For construction quality, I have found my two 77 Argosy's very different in assembly quality. My old 20 footer was very well done, wish I kept it. The 24 footer looks like it was assembled by a moron. I have not dug very deep into the 83 Excella yet, but it has some original construction issues also, the worse being the opening for the roof AC unit, which looks like they used a can opener to make the interior cut.
Thanks for any advice in advance
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Old 11-17-2012, 09:45 AM   #24
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2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , Milky Way
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Wayne,

I've used two methods....

Marine epoxy mixed with fine sawdust to re-attach the shower door frame to the wall.


And Marine-Tex grey to repair stripped wood screws. MT is a good addition to the Airstream tool box.

Bob
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Old 11-18-2012, 05:27 AM   #25
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1984 27' Airstream 270
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Thanks, MT looks interesting. I dont know if the sawdust will help in my situation, the surfaces are flat & smooth. But with at least 4 cabinets that need to be reattached, it may get expensive at $40 for 14 oz and the specs show that will do 124 sq inches. I think that may do 2 cabinets.
I think I will pick some up for a trial.
Thanks again for the reply.
Wayne

For a test I put a dab of TremPro on the wood and after 24 hours, it had fair adhesion. I will have to try a dab on the plastic frame when the temps get out of the 20's.
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Old 11-18-2012, 07:22 AM   #26
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Wayne,

Sorry for the confusion...The "wood flour" is the s additive I used with the epoxy resin to attach the shower door. The link will take you to where I purchased the supplies. If you have a supplier in your area they should be able to set you up with what you may need. If I remember right the kit I got was less than $40.00.

I originally got the epoxy/flour to repair a deck support on our boat. I used it on the shower door because of the added strength and wet environment .

I'm pretty sure the MarineTex alone will hold the plywood strips very well. It's mighty tuff stuff. Do you have a way to clamp/secure it while it dries?

Bob
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:18 AM   #27
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1984 27' Airstream 270
Scotia , New York
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I can clamp it with C-clamps, but to avoid re-tapping screw holes with a 90 deg screwdriver I will have to pre-assemble the door guides to the plywood and then glue them. I also have the problem of the outdoor temps never getting up to the 55 degree minimum in the epoxy specs.
I may wait until spring to give it a try. Right now it is going in the shop for brake work anyway.
Thanks
Wayne
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