Equalizer hitch install

[HCR]

Equalizer hitch installed today. Fifteen minutes to install, and four hours to adjust. Front axle is the same loaded as unloaded, rear axle still 2.5 inches lower when loaded than unloaded (unhitched). Well, there's always tomorrow and the truck looks relatively level, it's just that the tape measurement tells the truth.

[Andrew T]

What year make model etc. tow vehicle are you setting up? Is it stock?

Andrew T

[HCR]

TV is stock, 2010, F 150 XLT supercab.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by HCR

TV is stock, 2010, F 150 XLT supercab.

What rating torsion bars are you using with your truck?

Andy

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by HCR

Equalizer hitch installed today. Fifteen minutes to install, and four hours to adjust. Front axle is the same loaded as unloaded, rear axle still 2.5 inches lower when loaded than unloaded (unhitched). Well, there's always tomorrow and the truck looks relatively level, it's just that the tape measurement tells the truth.

I towed with an Equal-I-Zer hitch for 9 years and my experience with setup up is the same as yours. It takes a while to get it set properly the first time. Since it is not contiously adjustable, you have to pick a compromise. It can take a long time (trial and error) to arrive at a good compromise. Unfortunatley the adjustments affect each other and require tools and some disassembly to adjust.

I am curious what you are actually measuring , because the rear axle itself can not be higher or lower (unless your tires are very soft). I am guessing the fender wells.

I suggest you keep at it and get it as close to where you want it as you can, because once done it should not need changing with the same load in the TV and TT.
Make sure you are adjusting it with the truck and trailer loaded similar to what you they will be when towing.

Regards.

Ken

[HCR]

1k bars and measuring top of wheel well (fender) to ground.

Instructions say to get pre-load and w/load heights as close to the same as possible--is the 2.5 inches drop in rear TOO MUCH to be satisfied with for towing?

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by HCR

1k bars and measuring top of wheel well (fender) to ground.

You mat have too much strength in those 1000 pound bars.

As a test, have everything hooked up, ready to go.

Then stand on the coupler and bounce up and down.

The couple should move about 2 inches vertically.

If, not, then the bars are too stiff.

Bars that are too stiff can and usually do, cause damages to the trailer.

Some may disagree, but every rig is different.

Additionally. going up a slanted driveway, such as many gas stations have today, will put a huge stress on the front of the trailer.

Andy

[68 TWind]

Since the front measurement is the same and the rear is lower, you are not distributing enough weight to the front. On page 18 of the manual it says to first add a couple of spacer washers and if that doesn't to it, raise the L-bracket on the trailer by one hole. I think I would start with raising the L-bracket just to see. That will cause much more of the weight to be moved to the steer axle on your truck. You may have to use the lifter bar to get the arms on the bracket after you move it up. You should see a big difference. Also, make sure you grease the pivot points for the bars in the head of the hitch. They don't recommend grease on the L-brackets as friction there helps sway control.

The customer service folks at Equalizer are very helpful, may give them a call tomorrow if you can't get it right today.

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

You mat have too much strength in those 1000 pound bars.


..............................

Andy

The only smaller choice for the Eqal-I-Zer hitch is a 600/6000 rated hitch and bars which would be well below the weights for his trailer.

You can not just change the bars.

Ken

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by 68 TWind

Since the front measurement is the same and the rear is lower, you are not distributing enough weight to the front. On page 18 of the manual it says to first add a couple of spacer washers and if that doesn't to it, raise the L-bracket on the trailer by one hole. I think I would start with raising the L-bracket just to see. That will cause much more of the weight to be moved to the steer axle on your truck. You may have to use the lifter bar to get the arms on the bracket after you move it up. You should see a big difference. Also, make sure you grease the pivot points for the bars in the head of the hitch. They don't recommend grease on the L-brackets as friction there helps sway control.

The customer service folks at Equalizer are very helpful, may give them a call tomorrow if you can't get it right today.

The L-brackets should be adjusted to keep the bars near level when on the L-brackets. The spacer washers adjust the downward angle of the bars. This angle determines how much force will be applied to the bars when the ends are lifted up to the L brackets. This is the weight distribution force. If you raise the L-brackets to adjust the WD force, the bars will now be at an upward angle to the flat surface of the L-bracket when in place. This angle will reduce the surface contact between the bracket and bar thus reducing the amount of friction available for sway control.


Regards,

Ken

[dkottum]

These are the elements that work best for our Tundra-Equal-I-Zer-Safari 20 SE:

1) Hitch head has enough washers so the head leans slightly downward. This helps the trailer self-correct if it sways to the side, because increasing pressure is applied to the w.d. bars as they swing to the side.

2) The trailer is absolutely level on two axle trailers. Otherwise the weight on each axle will not be equal, overloading one axle.

3) The w.d. brackets are adjusted so the drop measured at the front and rear wheel well is equal, never higher in the back. For me 1-2'' more drop at the rear than front works fine with no steering lightness, but my truck is softly-sprung.

4) Make sure all bolts are torqued to spec. Check the tightness of the hitch head angle bolt under the head as it tends to loosen after towing awhile.

5) As Andy said, avoid deep dips at approaches, or at least take them at as much angle as possible. This brand w.d. bars have little or no flex and can put great stress on your trailer A frame. If you must back into a steeply-angled site, release the bars first.