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Old 12-02-2005, 08:52 AM   #81
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To OpenHigher,

Call Fantastic Fan And ask For a kit to convert Your fan. I have not done so but there has been a thread about several individuals doing a conversion with just a new switch and a hour a so of time.
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Old 12-02-2005, 06:23 PM   #82
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Bed edge overhanging the platform

May I ask for some replies from queen bed Safaris? I've seen the following issue mentioned in regard to some newer models -- I'm just not certain how many models it affects. On my twin bed 25' FB the edge of the mattress overhangs the platform by at least two inches. This does not affect comfort and sleepability. Because my weight causes the edge of the mattress down on to the underlying edge of the platform, I do wonder about durability if I'm sitting on the bed.

So the question -- What relation do you see with the edge of the queen mattress and the underlying platform? Are they the same size or does the queen mattress also overhang the edge by ... how much?

Thank you!
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Old 12-02-2005, 08:43 PM   #83
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Bob, I don't have quite a queen, but if I recall correctly, the mattress on ours also hangs over the edge. I would say from memory between one to two inches. I have no idea what the durability might be sitting on the edge constantly, but one thing is for sure, on our Safari, it's not like you can flip the mattress like on the regular queens I'm fairly sure!
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Old 12-03-2005, 07:18 AM   #84
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I have the Classic with the transverse queen which is identical so far as mattress and platform.There is no signifigant overhang on my trailer.

Earlier I had a 22' where there was a lot of overhang. I didn't notice any wear issues.

I did put strips the rough half of Velcro face up on the platform to keep the mattreaa from sliding around so much.
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Old 12-03-2005, 08:32 AM   #85
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The mattress/plywood protector that came on my 03 Safari was a couple inches longer than the plywood. Also a couple inches thinner than it should have been. Junked it, cut a larger piece of plywood with some "legs" at the south end, put in a real queen size mattress and have been sleeping quite nicely ever since. Lost the "walkaround" floorspace but gained about 6" in well supported mattress length.
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Old 12-28-2005, 10:58 PM   #86
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06 Safari SE

I have had my new 28' for two weeks and have been in it the whole time. Our new house in Albuquerque had a pipe freeze and flooded half the house while we were in TX getting the Airstream. We are now suffering while parked in the yard in our shinny new 'construction trailer' watching HD DirecTv and using Verizon Broadband internet. The house is another story but here is our take about the trailer.
Our dealer experience was outstanding and the modifications (I will call them the 'Tin Hutt' version ... call Dave Tidsdale at Roger Williams Ford for the details) are well worth the cost. Since we left the lot I have had to call about every day to handle things I missed in the briefing or 'how do you do that?' questions. Dave has been easy to reach and patient with each time. It is very true that it is the dealer that makes the difference.
This forced immersion in the trailer has been good for our knowledge and confidence. Here are the highlights of things that were wrong with the product. This trailer was the first 06 SE off the line after the one produced for for New Orleans show so it may have had extra attention by the engineers, don't know.
1. The audio system has a know problem that the factory told us about after Dave (the electrical engineer) discovered it. We are still trying to get the part from the manufactuer so the bedroom speakers do not work.
2. The furnace failed during our freezing stay on the dealer's lot. Was fixed by swapping parts. Has been fine since.
3. The fit and finish has been good except for 2 or 3 easily repaired things (a corner of the inside aluminum rough and 2 ends of the edging laminate loose). The cutting board inserts for the sink melt with hot pots and easily cut with a knife ... some cutting board.
4. The world knows about the shower leaking at the door bottom. The world knows that it is fixed with a dab of silicone. The factory has not figured this out yet.
5. The 'Safari' placard next to the door has had a rivet failure and hangs down from the other rivet. Perhaps we should not slam the door quite so hard.
Well, that is about it. From what I have read here in the past it does seem that we did rather well. This is a wonderful machine and we are quite pleased.
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Old 12-29-2005, 01:24 PM   #87
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hi iver

really sounds like you are sufferin'.....

nothing like livin' in it to get familiar real fast.....looks like you got 2 keepers (trailer and dealer).

one observation.....
if it takes a lot to close the door.....slammin'.......something is a'miss. the doors should close very easily and without trying twice. so it could be the leveling jacks are twisting the structure and need re adjusting, or it could be the door isn't fitted correctly.....screen or main door or gaskets.
the first possibility is for you to tinker with the jacks....before asking the dealer adjust the door.

i didn't realize how hard my door was closing until i tried a few on the lot (after 3 months of travel in it) and learned what normal closing felt like.

congrats.........lets see some pictures!!!!

cheers
2air'
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Old 12-29-2005, 01:43 PM   #88
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I agree. The first stop would be to make sure you haven't cranked down the stabilizer jacks too far or too hard. That is usually the cause. Our Bambi was terrible and made little difference either way. If that is the case with your unit, then something is clearly wrong.
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Old 12-29-2005, 09:12 PM   #89
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Thanks for the response. I made two mistakes in the last post.
First I misspelled David's last name ... it is Tidmore ... very sorry Dlavied!
The second was the dealership ... it is Roger Williams Airstream attached to Roger Williams Dodge in Weatherford, TX.

Regards, Iver
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Old 01-01-2006, 02:26 PM   #90
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Condensation inside?

We just returned from our first trip with our new AS 25-FB, a non-SE model. It rained continually at the campground where we plannned to check out all the systems. Actually, it rained at a pace that Noah would have recognized.

Had some leaking around the top of the rear window at the dinette. Probably because some of the rain was coming across horizontally. Also, had some drips from the vent in the bathroom and apparently a couple of drops from the A/C and the Fantastic fan in the kitchen, but couldn't find the sources.

More significantly, we had what I considered a large amount of condensation on the windows (45-55 degrees outside, 65-68 degrees inside). Also, we noticed that condensation was always on the stainless steel (or is it aluminum?) backsplash along the kitchen wall. I wonder if this happens on all the interior walls of the SE models?

Or, does this condensation only happen in extreme humidity, monsoonal, or biblical rain?
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Old 01-01-2006, 02:55 PM   #91
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Hello again Mike -- Good to hear a report. We've all been hearing about the weather in California! The search function would show any number of similar discussions. I can't find the one I'm thinking of but http://www.airforums.com/forum...ouse-19328.htm starts the conversation off well enough. This will happen more than less when getting down into the 40s or below.

I would believe zolotone interiors would get nearly as moist -- it's just more obvious with the all aluminum interior. It is aggravating to dry the windows and still not be able to see out. I wouldn't like to keep drying the metal interior for fear of damaging the clearcoat. I like a chamois or a Packtowl (search Campmor or REI) -- the Packtowl beats trying to dry a terry towel!

I can't help you when the rain is driving horizontal, but trying to sleep with a ceiling vent open a bit helps most -- but the occasional shower makes that troublesome unless the forecast is absolutely clear. Second choice would be a side window. Under cool conditions we can't heat any moist item on the stove without the vent hood running. For that infernal noisy hood fan, look at this: http://www.airforums.com/forum...-fan-10960.htm
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Old 01-01-2006, 03:09 PM   #92
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leaks vs condensation

hi mike

nothing like the shake down cruise? first on the microwave....i wouldn't try to fix it.....assuming you followed the directions properly....just have it replaced.....it's covered under warranty so why fool with it. also it's only a 300$ item.

it can be difficult to sort out leaks vs condensation.... for the fantastic fan and bath vent, check the seals/rims for construction debris, glue and so on; it's not uncommon to find little bits of stuff up there...make sure the inside of the lid is clean too. usually during light rain, they can be left open just a crack, but in a sideways/driving rain they can leak so make sure you know what completely closed looks/sounds like.

it is possible for water flowing upward ( say from a hose) to get past the a/c cover and down the fan....but water can also come from a clogged/cracked drip pan. so try the a/c when it's dry out....and make sure that's not the source of water. if it is take it back for the proper installation. my ac required 3 re installs before done correctly. any water coming in is not acceptable unless you sprayed a hose. if the a/c bond to the roof doesn't have enough sealant it needs to be removed and re installed.

kitchen window....again make sure the gaskets are free of crap and the window closes...next check outside for the thin bead of sealant that should be all around the window frame.

condensation
two people inside a trailer will expire 2-4 quarts of water per 24hours. add shower moisture and sink and cooking evaporation and that's a lot of condensation to deal with. add a kid or 2 and a pooch and some wet coats......so regular daily venting is needed....always, always, always use the stove vent when cooking, washing or making coffee. use the bath vent when showering. open a window or the door during the day, along with a fantastic fan. if it's raining it helps to put an awning out and open the window under it...or roll out the big curb awning (properly angled for rain runoff) and prop the door open.......these cans gotta breath. one could also use the stove vent fan to help move air/water even when not cooking. in moderately cool temps it does help to run the central furnace and not a space heater or heat pump, again for moving moisture.

also don't forget to close the stove vent and roof vents when traveling....they can leak water big time will driving in the rain.

i'm sure others will offer more wisdom.

cheers
2air'
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Old 01-01-2006, 03:32 PM   #93
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Perhaps I should add a picture or two to show that I wasn't kidding about rain of biblical proportions. The last three photos at http://homepage.mac.com/mikero1/Firs...toAlbum12.html ought to make the point.

I hadn't appreciated how much moisture we humans add to the air each day. I forgot to mention that our two small dogs were with us too. It all adds up.

We didn't use the range hood fan each time because of the noise. I'll have to solve that problem with a rheostat or a multi-speed fan because we do understand the value of having an exhaust over the fan. We did use the fans in the bathroom and shower. Those are mercifully less noisy.

We also have those super absorbent towels on our list. We have very small ones in our backpacks but I imagine there are other sizes more appropriate to the trailer available.

I don't think I'll muck with the A/C or Fantastic fan seals unless we have more leaks because the leaks we did get only amounted to 6-10 drops of water. The leak over the rear window, however, will require a more careful look once the dove returns with the branch indicating that California has dried out. The leak there is not from the moveable part of the window but from the fixed part right at the very top. The prevailing storm winds came from that direction at speeds reported to be over 30mph.
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Old 01-01-2006, 03:50 PM   #94
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hey that is a lot of rain....did they charge extra for beach front camping sites?

that's a great looking trailer; size, layout and decor are perfect for 2.....great selection!

another thought on the microwave......it's really easy to remove. just take screws out of the black metal face plate and the microwave lifts out...unplug cord from 3 prong outlet. then it can be plugged into a household outlet to again test it....but i'd just ask them to replace it. if you remove it and take it do the dealer......it will save a towing trip for this issue.

cheers
2air'
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Old 01-01-2006, 04:16 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman
another thought on the microwave......it's really easy to remove. just take screws out of the black metal face plate and the microwave lifts out...unplug cord from 3 prong outlet. then it can be plugged into a household outlet to again test it....but i'd just ask them to replace it. if you remove it and take it do the dealer......it will save a towing trip for this issue.

cheers
2air'
Microwave's are usually not repaired by the dealer but in fact most times they deinstall them and drive them over to an authorized microwave service facility. I don't believe they keep these in supply either. You can ask your dealer about this and if you have an authorized microwave service facility closer to your home than your dealer, getting it repaired there may be much easier and faster. I did that with my SOB and it was 5 miles to the repair facilty vs. 55 miles to my dealer.

Jack
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Old 01-01-2006, 05:10 PM   #96
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Outside storage on the 25' FB Twin Bed

Say Mike -- Give us a pitch on your impression of the 3 front outside storage areas. Bounteous, eh?

I'm going to be ordering one more rack for the pantry pull out. Your pictures show the 3 current racks well.

Like old Beetles, that's some belly wrap on your new boat!
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Old 01-01-2006, 05:29 PM   #97
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CanoeStream, aka Bob,

About the three front outside compartments, I haven't figured out what to put in which except for the one on the side nearest the hose connections. That's where I put the sewer elbows, the grey water hose, the expandable support for the sewer hose and some rope and bungie chords.

The front one extending the full width offers many possibilities but for now all I have in there is the potable water hose, filter, and elbow connector. Also, I have put the Equal-i-zer hitch in there temporarily until I can find a more suitable place to put that ungainly and very heavy contraption. Although it fits, placing the hitch into the space without damaging the hatch lid or the rubber gasket is challenging and ultimately not acceptable.

We visited a Camping World store to stock up on contraptions and supplies that we need or at least we think we need. I saw a nifty three step folding ladder there that had two sides extended in a loop that support you when standing on the top. It is a very lightweight unit that I think will work well for getting up high enough to clean the photoelectric panels with a soft mop or brush. I found that the ladder just barely fit in the front compartment so that makes it a likely purchase now.

We are very, very impressed with the number and size of all the storage compartments both inside and outside the 25FB. I don't even want to contemplate filling them up. The temptation to put a lot in the front must be avoided I suppose especially if the items weigh a great deal. The tongue weight of the trailer dry is about 720 pounds I believe.

All three compartments are carpeted and covered with a plastic sheet right now. I don't know whether I keep the carpeting given the kinds of things that are likely to be stowed there. Could get messy. The carpeting must be just easier when the trailer is constructed because it is just the flooring in the bedroom. The twin beds and the nightstand/cabinet are laid on top and form the back of the storage bins I presume. The construction is simpler for AS I presume, but for storing stuff that might get dirty, it might be more practical to replace that carpeting with rubberized or plastic material.

Lastly, we are not too happy with the key locks, not just on the hatches which work okay or at least better than the door and deadbolt that are almost too difficult to turn as to be unuseable. For all the quality built in elsewhere in the Airstream, you'd think that they could have found a better lock supplier after all these years.
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Old 01-01-2006, 05:56 PM   #98
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Quote:
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The construction is simpler for AS I presume, but for storing stuff that might get dirty, it might be more practical to replace that carpeting with rubberized or plastic material.

work okay or at least better than the door and deadbolt that are almost too difficult to turn as to be unuseable. For all the quality built in elsewhere in the Airstream, you'd think that they could have found a better lock supplier after all these years.
We left the plastic down over the carpeting in our rear storage compartment. No real need to remove it.

Our door locks did need some graphite blown into them. That made things a lot smoother. Note that extending the slide out without the stabilizer jacks down or extending them too far (too much presure) can cause a torquing that will make the dead bolt difficult to move with the key.

I extend the jacks until they just begin to put some lift on the frame, at that point I reverse them till the lift on the frame is removed. That insures that there is no pressure on the frame other than the support it needs from the ground below the stabilizer foot.

Jack
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Old 01-01-2006, 06:04 PM   #99
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Jack,

I have graphite lubricant on my shopping list. I hope that helps with the locks. I haven't got a slideout so body twist isn't a problem. The problem is the poor quality and fit of the lock and its tumblers. I can barely get the key into the slot and once in the key is almost impossible to turn. It is as if I have the wrong key. Very poor design and lockset, I believe.
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Old 01-01-2006, 06:19 PM   #100
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Quote:
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Jack,

I have graphite lubricant on my shopping list. I hope that helps with the locks. I haven't got a slideout so body twist isn't a problem. The problem is the poor quality and fit of the lock and its tumblers. I can barely get the key into the slot and once in the key is almost impossible to turn. It is as if I have the wrong key. Very poor design and lockset, I believe.
Yeah I momentarily forgot about that. Still too much pressure on a stabilizer jack, even if you don't have a slideout, can cause door issues. My experience with my door locks were much like yours. Extremely hard to get the key into the slot and turn. I was surprised how much difference the graphite has made. I usually inject some graphite each spring to keep things turning more smoothly.

Jack
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