1962 22' Safari

[NorCal Bambi]

We use to have a RV that had a sit down shower. It took a lot less space and wasn't bad once we got us to the idea. I through this in just as a possible thought for a different approach. No puns intended.
Don

[jcferguson]

Originally Posted by uwe

Now if you use an artsy material, it would surely look nice and function well. I can see milky plexiglass or plastic sheeting, perhaps framed by aluminum extrusions.

agreed about the adding interest by hiding things a bit. I was thinking about some porthole circles in the wall of the shower, by the door and by my work table, using 1/4" ply for the wall and cutting a circle, filling that circle with the corrugated plastic and using circles of aluminum to cover/seal the joint between the plastic and wood. How to attach the aluminum so it looks good on both sides though? I need to find some fasteners or rivets that have two good sides. I don't know about buck rivetting the plastic, though I might give it a try.

[jcferguson]

Originally Posted by NorCal Bambi

We use to have a RV that had a sit down shower. It took a lot less space and wasn't bad once we got us to the idea. I through this in just as a possible thought for a different approach. No puns intended.
Don

Don, sit down in that there were no walls above it? Or that there was only space to sit on the toilet while washing? My space looks to have just enough room to stand in front of the toilet while showering, I'll make the entire bathroom floor into a shower pan somehow. Figuring the door is the next problem, how to get a good seal to shed the water from the shower. I wish it could open in, but there isn't enough space.

[NorCal Bambi]

Originally Posted by jcferguson

Don, sit down in that there were no walls above it? Or that there was only space to sit on the toilet while washing? My space looks to have just enough room to stand in front of the toilet while showering, I'll make the entire bathroom floor into a shower pan somehow. Figuring the door is the next problem, how to get a good seal to shed the water from the shower. I wish it could open in, but there isn't enough space.

The thought on the sitting position was so the walls could maybe be shorter. Would not allow standing. Only if it would make the hiding of the system more possible. Just a wild idea.
Don

[uwe]

Originally Posted by jcferguson

agreed about the adding interest by hiding things a bit. I was thinking about some porthole circles in the wall of the shower, by the door and by my work table, using 1/4" ply for the wall and cutting a circle, filling that circle with the corrugated plastic and using circles of aluminum to cover/seal the joint between the plastic and wood. How to attach the aluminum so it looks good on both sides though? I need to find some fasteners or rivets that have two good sides. I don't know about buck rivetting the plastic, though I might give it a try.

I buck riveted stainless to plywood when I built my sliding pantry. Works just fine.

Or, do a glass ( or corrugated plastic) insert that is held in by wooden rings from both sides. You would need a bit of wall thickness for this to work.

4 spokes might work as well. Leave 1/4in room between the wall hole and the plastic circle, and you have a vent at the same time.

4 or more standoffs could to the trick also. The plastic or glass would be slightly larger than the hole in the wall, and the standoffs would terminate on both sides in clean looking stainless bolt heads, or whatever matches something in the interior that you have already used elsewhere. Again, extra light, intrigue and a vented space all at the same time.

[fastrob]

It is so nice to see the art come to shape! Thanks for sharing.

Is this a wet bath with the toilet in the shower space? Can you sit and shower if you want? Can you shower with a friend? I like queen size beds and showers for 2.
Macarena is ok to dance to but will a hose wash away any poopies? Simple is best, my '76 has a hose by the terlet but no macarena. As a matter of fact the shower hose could wash away any poopies as well. I got to boost the pressure on my shower to put a hot mist in the air, yeah, thanks.

R

[jcferguson]

Originally Posted by uwe

I buck riveted stainless to plywood when I built my sliding pantry. Works just fine.

I buck rivetted the trim around my door through plywood and back to aluminum on the other side too, so it should work, I like the idea of the standoffs though...

4 or more standoffs could to the trick also. The plastic or glass would be slightly larger than the hole in the wall, and the standoffs would terminate on both sides in clean looking stainless bolt heads, or whatever matches something in the interior that you have already used elsewhere. Again, extra light, intrigue and a vented space all at the same time.

What about water from the shower though, I like the idea of the vent/circles, but wouldn't I get water gushing out the holes if I point the shower head in the wrong direction? Maybe if the corrugated cover is a good deal bigger than the hole and on the inside. Main problem right now is how to attach the entire thing to the wall. Is my only option the trim pieces that I took out? Or can I bend some aluminum extrusion to work as a joint between the wet bath walls and the trailer walls?

[jcferguson]

Originally Posted by fastrob

It is so nice to see the art come to shape! Thanks for sharing.

Is this a wet bath with the toilet in the shower space? Can you sit and shower if you want? Can you shower with a friend? I like queen size beds and showers for 2.
Macarena is ok to dance to but will a hose wash away any poopies? Simple is best, my '76 has a hose by the terlet but no macarena. As a matter of fact the shower hose could wash away any poopies as well. I got to boost the pressure on my shower to put a hot mist in the air, yeah, thanks.

R

wet bath with toilet, sit and shower, stand and dance and shower too. would have to know friend pretty darn well to have two in there, but proximity might help with lathering since there might not be room for arms.

[uwe]

Originally Posted by jcferguson

What about water from the shower though, I like the idea of the vent/circles, but wouldn't I get water gushing out the holes if I point the shower head in the wrong direction? Maybe if the corrugated cover is a good deal bigger than the hole and on the inside. Main problem right now is how to attach the entire thing to the wall. Is my only option the trim pieces that I took out? Or can I bend some aluminum extrusion to work as a joint between the wet bath walls and the trailer walls?

The slitted wall retainers are your best option. I painted mine with aluminum paint, and it holds up very well. Mine used to be a bronze color, now they are aluminum colored. You could picka color that matches the wood, or whatever.
You can also do what you did on the curved section where the dinette seat meets the trailer wall, install a slotted cleat against the wall vertically, and then pin or staple or glue or somehow other attach the wood to the cleat invisibly. Yu could even then install a second wall on top of the cleat, perhaps aluminum, to waterproof the wall.

It is amazing how quickly one learns to shower in small spaces. As long as your port holes are up high enough, I doubt that you will have a flood. The trailer shower is often driven by the water pump, and does not exactly remind me of a fire hose.

[t.gray]

Originally Posted by jcferguson

Any thoughts on that bathroom? Will it ruin my trailer or make it seem larger because there will be two roomlike spaces instead of one biggie?

C

Carlos,
It appears to hold a nice balance between the chimney and the bathroom - moving the eye through the open spaces - I think it works. Also the bathroom shape plays well with the similar shaped counter work surfaces. It's a beautiful trailer - looking forward to September - airstreams in front of the gallery.
Theresa

[jcferguson]

These lights are from WAC and pricey too. I couldn't find anything else that would look good after a lot of looking. They need to be moveable so I can put light on the work surfaces from different directions. Paintings get reflective and hard to see when wet so the lights need to come from an oblique angle.

There are two circuits with a switch for each. The switch plates have room for me to add a dimmer on each later.

The lights are "monorail" style and are meant to hand down about 3-9 inches from the ceiling - so I adapted them to sit close to the roof with the little baltic birch cleats. The power comes through the center of one of the cleats and contacts one side of the rail with a bare wire and the other side through the screw holding it up.

[jcferguson]

I have been trying to get the hvac guy in town to come hook me up to propane and finally gave up and did it myself. There is only one fitting inside the trailer anyway (the oven hookup).

One question: when I put the regulator on, I can't screw my tank hold-down up and down, have to remove regulator to remove tanks! I assume newer regulators are flat and sit flush on that bracket (see pics).

One more: should I weld that tank holder to the a-frame or are my u-bolts enough?



Stove works, water heater works, I shut it all off, burned off the gas in the lines and will wait for a less windy day to do the soap bubble thing.

[jcferguson]

Originally Posted by uwe

You can also do what you did on the curved section where the dinette seat meets the trailer wall, install a slotted cleat against the wall vertically, and then pin or staple or glue or somehow other attach the wood to the cleat invisibly. Yu could even then install a second wall on top of the cleat, perhaps aluminum, to waterproof the wall.

I am going to use that cleat option again - probably screw from the outside so it is all removable if necessary. everything so far is, and if I make this one thing permanent I will definately have to tear it out... The pictures are of the cleat for the bathroom wall nearest the door, a closeup of that, and a closeup of the cleat for the dinette.

[wrepete]

Hi Carlos,
I modified the bracket that holds the LPG regulator on mine so that it sits lower on the threaded rod, below the hold-down. I used extra nuts threaded down the rod [takes a lot of turning on each] positioning the bracket low enough that it misses all the action, and tightened the nuts against each other with the ends of the bracket sandwiched in between. I think that might work for you if I'm reading your pictures right. Always enjoy your posts!

[Saw your art work [[nice stuff]] on your website, noticed that you exhibited and were awarded a purchase prize at Fort Hays University in the Moss-Thorns gallery. Joel Moss and John Thorns were two of my teachers there in the 1950's and I was their first Master's degree graduate. Taught jewelry and metals there in 1955. Long time ago. . . Good memories.]

[Jim & Susan]

I know what you mean about AC guys and Airstreams. I've asked a couple to come and service my AC unit before the weather gets hot and they simply don't want to work on an Airstream. I can't move the trailer because the inner skins aren't back in yet, so keep looking....

It's probably a pain at this point because of all the work you've already completed on the frame, but I think I would weld the tank holders down. That's how they came from the factory on the '70's models. You don't want the propane bouncing down the road at 60 MPH.

Try poking around at the hardware store for a different type of handle for the hold-down. Dad always says when you need something odd like that to go the hardware store and ask the guy with the most grey hair for his opinion. Hey, it couldn't hurt.

Jim

[flyfshr]

I just put a regular nut on mine and use a wrench to tighten it down. Having aluminum tanks makes me believe that they're less likely to disappear if you need a wrench to remove them.

Brad
FF

[Jim & Susan]

Originally Posted by flyfshr

......... Having aluminum tanks makes me believe that they're less likely to disappear if you need a wrench to remove them.

Brad
FF

Very good point.

Jim

[jcferguson]

Originally Posted by flyfshr

I just put a regular nut on mine and use a wrench to tighten it down. Having aluminum tanks makes me believe that they're less likely to disappear if you need a wrench to remove them.

Brad
FF

Good idea, solves my problem.

[malconium]

Originally Posted by jcferguson

I made a mock bath today, it is about 28 inches on the table side, tapers to about 22 inches by the door side, where the toilet will be located. I am still ambivalent about putting in this structure, but with the taper I can still see all the windows from most spots in the trailer. The front curb-side dinette seat is the area is disadvantaged though.

The other option is some kind of pull out curtain, but I can't see that looking very good, or being easy to pack away when it is wet.

If I taper the bath like this, the toilet area is more proportioned to the toilet itself, with no taper it is a little wide there, with no apparent use for the space to the sides of the toilet. The taper will also roughly match the taper of the tabletop in the rear, making a long arc for that side of the trailer. 44 inches wide, perhaps just enough for almost comfortable showering, I will put a piece of paper over the door and air-scrub-up just to be sure.

I am wondering about my dump valve now. I had planned on having a hatch just opposite the backside of the toilet - this would be just inside the door to the trailer. The macerator would be in there, with a quick release attachment for a hose that I could snap on, pump out, then pump the grey tank through the black tank to clean things out. Then snap off the hose and put it, um, somewhere else. Is this a bad idea? Should I have that quick release jobby below deck, under the trailer? Seems prudent I guess, in case some electrical storm causes my macerator to go off in the middle of the night? I could still locate the macerator there with a hatch for maintenance and a switch for the grinder.

Any thoughts on that bathroom? Will it ruin my trailer or make it seem larger because there will be two roomlike spaces instead of one biggie?

C

What I was envisioning for a folding bath was to use some sort of low profile cutain track (not too obtrusive when the shower is closed) up the walls so that a curtain could be pulled up from the closed position to the open position by sliding it up the track and clipping it somewhere at the top. It would be possible to have it slide over into the aisle area to make the shower larger. Perhaps it would be possible to come up with some sort of flexible folding shower pan. Something like a kitchen sink drainboard that could force water to drain from the aisle back into the under cabinet area where a floor drain could be placed.

Malcolm

[audiobox]

This retractable, self wiping shower curtain may interest you:

<http://newlinebathroom.com/index.php?module=My_eGallery&do=showgall&gid=1>

I'm really enjoying watching your progress on this project. Great work!