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Old 03-14-2006, 04:25 PM   #181
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water heater water fill

The water heater and fresh water fill are in under the range. I used 3/4" ply to build a sort of frame between the skins. The water heater flange is screwed through the skin into this wood.
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Old 03-14-2006, 04:27 PM   #182
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Drawer

This is the first drawer, 22" x 44" x 6", 1/2 inch ply.
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Old 03-15-2006, 03:58 PM   #183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
Thanks JP, I have been liking how open it is too, the light from the windows fills the space pretty well since there aren't any bulkheads. Just the stove-pipe, which could be removed in summer. I am toying with the ridiculous idea of making the bathroom hidden under the counter with some "pop-up" walls - something like the bed, it could be set up semi-permanently when I want a bathroom, collapsing to below the countertop when I want to have a huge/open workspace. Then I wouldn't necessarily lose the airy-ness of the space. A pop-up bathroom, this is crazy, isn't it?
Perhaps a suitable way of doing this would be to create a lift up counter top over the bathroom and a couple of under-counter doors that maybe slide back in at the sides when they are open. You could then enclose the space with a pull up tent of sorts. I am envisioning something a bit like the hanging wardrobe tents that have a zipper down the middle. The whole enclosure should easily fold up and sit on top of the toilet when the bathroom is closed up. Just provide a hook of some sort in the ceiling to hang the tent from when it is in the up position. Even the idea of using a zipper for the opening might be just fine. You could perhaps make it out of a waterproof fabric such as Sunbrella brand fabrics.

Malcolm
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Old 03-18-2006, 10:17 PM   #184
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under sink plumbing

This drain is meant to leave space for a couple drawers beneath - moving the trap back to the wall.
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Old 03-18-2006, 10:20 PM   #185
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Removeable access hatch for the area under the stove. The pump will be there.
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Old 03-18-2006, 10:22 PM   #186
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Gigantenna

I put this giant antenna on the front today, I think I can get Moscow. Plus AM, which was nil before.

Thanks Uwe!

Carlos
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Old 03-19-2006, 10:56 PM   #187
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Wet Bath?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
I am thinking more about this Tardis-bathroom, popping up from countertop level. I will make some drawings and maybe you all can help with my design...
As a hack I can only admire your exquisite work and want to cheer you on.
The 22' CCD and Safari has a small wet bath that owners have positively commented on. Even after switching to larger units. The touring coaches have even smaller wet baths as shown on line at Airstream.com.
Do you plan on a shower? Curtins (shower or otherwise) on a hoop could work, like on boats. But a shower pan would be needed.
Thanks for the pictures.

Robert
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Old 03-19-2006, 11:20 PM   #188
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Eh? Looking at post #187, I see you don't have a suicide door. How's that?
The trailer looks fab, by the way.
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Old 03-20-2006, 12:39 AM   #189
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Incredible. Your work is simlpy fantastic. That what i invision when i think of restoring mine. I know i dont have the patience, skill or place to do it though. Sure is nice to see your progression.

Well done.
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Old 03-20-2006, 07:37 AM   #190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtpalms
Eh? Looking at post #187, I see you don't have a suicide door. How's that?
The trailer looks fab, by the way.
Thanks!

Do other 62 Safari trailers have suicide doors?

Carlos
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Old 03-20-2006, 09:34 AM   #191
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I thought all Airstreams had suicide doors until what, maybe the last year or so? That's the first picture of one I've seen with the door open on the 'wrong' side. Folks don't post a lot of pictures with their doors open, I guess. And I don't get to see a lot of Airstreams in the flesh.
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Old 03-20-2006, 06:21 PM   #192
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Drawers

16 drawers to make... this thing is going to look like a Shaker house before I am done. And be Heavy. I've been taking trips to weigh in regularly and I think (I hope) I will be ok, at about 3100 right now. The sides and front of these drawers are 1/2", the bottom is 1/4". I am wondering if I could make functional drawers with only the front 3/8" and the sides and bottoms at 1/4". Probably, but how to attach drawer slides to the sides?. Next trailer will be lighter.

The little holes on the bottom of the front piece are for inset magnets that will hold the drawer closed.
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Old 03-20-2006, 06:26 PM   #193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastrob
The touring coaches have even smaller wet baths as shown on line at Airstream.com.
Do you plan on a shower? Curtins (shower or otherwise) on a hoop could work, like on boats. But a shower pan would be needed.
Thanks Rob - I am really lucky to be able to use my father's woodshop and some of my grandfathers tools. He was a schoolteacher, taught agriculture and woodshop.

How is it on boats? Do they usually have an area with a pan that has hooks in the roof for a curtain? I am thinking more about this as I am about ready to get going on the water system and need to figure what I will do with the bathroom. I had thought about a copper shower pan (I could solder it myself with a torch - I don't have a mig or tig welder which means stainless would require help). Or I could do a wood floor with lots of spar varnish? Or is that asking for trouble?
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Old 03-21-2006, 10:07 AM   #194
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Wasserbahn

I think my system is pretty simple (toilet, shower, kitchen sink) but I still have some questions about my water set-up:

What happens at A and B?

A: is there some sort of check valve, or does the pump itself act as a check to keep water from running back into the tank? So do I need to set it up so that I can turn a valve between the pump and the city water line to keep water from going in the pump direction - or do you just hook up the hose and go?

B: is this just a t fitting that splits the cold into "cold" and "water about to be heated"? I read about "hot water bypass kits" somewhere. Couldn't I just put a shut off valve on the heater side of this t to cut off all the hot water? And why would I want to anyway?

C: I read somewhere about using smaller line for hot so less water would be wasted waiting for hot to get to the spigot. What size water line should I use for hot and cold? I'd like it to be as efficient as possible as I will probably be boondocking some.

As for grey and black, they seem simple, stuff in - stuff out, need a vent. I'm planning a macerator setup instead of the huge dump valve, and a secondary pump to run my grey tank through the toilet to recycle water and flush out the black tank. All this will go through a garden hose. I might figure some failsafe valve in case I have problems with the macerator, between the black tank and macerator, so I could take off the grinder and hook up a new one if necessary.

I think I will use pex and flair it fittings just because Uwe did. Anything you would change Uwe? Your source?

Thanks,

Carlos
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Old 03-21-2006, 10:39 AM   #195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
I think my system is pretty simple (toilet, shower, kitchen sink) but I still have some questions about my water set-up:

What happens at A and B?

A: is there some sort of check valve, or does the pump itself act as a check to keep water from running back into the tank? So do I need to set it up so that I can turn a valve between the pump and the city water line to keep water from going in the pump direction - or do you just hook up the hose and go?
My pump has a built in check valve. It prevents city water from filling the tank through the pump, and prevents back flow. I bought a $ 50.00 pump from camping world just before the trip. The PAR pump that I lovingly restored, leaked due to a broken bottom plate..

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
B: is this just a t fitting that splits the cold into "cold" and "water about to be heated"? I read about "hot water bypass kits" somewhere. Couldn't I just put a shut off valve on the heater side of this t to cut off all the hot water? And why would I want to anyway?
Put a one way ( check) valve into the cold water supply to the water heater. It keeps the hot water in there....instead of confusing teh heck out of you when you use it the first time. Happened to me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
C: I read somewhere about using smaller line for hot so less water would be wasted waiting for hot to get to the spigot. What size water line should I use for hot and cold? I'd like it to be as efficient as possible as I will probably be boondocking some.
Use the same - too much hassle with different fittings etc. You will end up opening the hot all the way, and regulating temp with the cold. Insulate teh hot, it helps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
As for grey and black, they seem simple, stuff in - stuff out, need a vent. I'm planning a macerator setup instead of the huge dump valve, and a secondary pump to run my grey tank through the toilet to recycle water and flush out the black tank. All this will go through a garden hose. I might figure some failsafe valve in case I have problems with the macerator, between the black tank and macerator, so I could take off the grinder and hook up a new one if necessary.
good idea.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
I think I will use pex and flair it fittings just because Uwe did. Anything you would change Uwe? Your source?

Thanks,

Carlos
I would usemore teflon tape than what I did between the flair it fittings and metal threads. I ran 1/2in everywhere. I have fittings left over, and a piece of tubing. Call me if you want some of it. I would definitely go with teh pex again - it has not leaked anywhere, from the get go. As I said, there were some drips from flair it to metal threads, due to not enough installation expertise.....I suck at plumbing. Why on earth would you trust me in the first place?? Of course once you have the drips, then you also have lines full of water. A real pain to repair with new flooring etc. in mind. So, get teh BIG roll of teflon tape, and you will be fine.
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Old 03-22-2006, 05:51 PM   #196
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Jack Jack

My new jack came with a removable foot, and on the foot - the sticker pictured below. A good reminder, as the other photo is what my old jack looks like now. A perfect storm of events led to the bend in the bottom part: a minor bump in a driveway, and forgetting to crank the jack all the way up.

To make lemonade from this experience, it was surprisingly inexpensive to replace, and I got a front crank model that will keep me from whacking my knuckles on the tanks. My old jack was too short after I put on new axles - and had no foot.
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Old 03-22-2006, 05:55 PM   #197
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Woodbox

Woodbox. I was getting tired of bits of wood lying around everywhere, and the ashcan tipping over. Now I can roll out this drawer and scoop ashes into a can without getting them all over everything.

The drawer is step shaped to fit over the wheel well, hung on heavy duty slides, and secured with a few magnets hidden behind the front of the drawer. The slide has a hefty detent to the all-in position, and combined with the magnets it snaps shut and stays that way. The holes allow me to stick a finger in each and then lever my thumbs on the wood just above the drawer in order to open.
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Old 03-22-2006, 06:05 PM   #198
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Spare

I don't know if anyone else has noticed, but there is a forum-wide fear of weight in the back. I have this fear too, and it has led me to a nose heavy condition that I am hoping will balance out when I get my stuff in there.

I put the spare back on the rear bumper though, hoping to get rid of some of my tongue weight. I used to have a trunk back there and the tire was mounted on a lever that could swing out of the way to open and close the trunk. I just cut it up and took out the lever part, welded the rest together and bolted it back on the bumper.
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Old 03-22-2006, 06:08 PM   #199
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light maquettes

I made this little light model to simulate the lights I am considering for the back - a monorail style.
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Old 03-22-2006, 07:11 PM   #200
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Uwe or anyone else,
Be honest, have you ever pushed the lines on the fitting only to find out that you had the screw on piece backwards? I did it once, a real pain to take apart again.
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